M clutch removal

Now that I dropped the belly pump I'd like to clean up all the oily dust off the clutch assembly. The service manual clearly explains how to collapse the springs with 3 of the 6 bolts before removal. Only problem is, there is no tapped holes in the pressure plate to suck in the springs. Will there be a problem if I don't collapse the springs before removal of the clutch assembly? Is there another way to skin this cat? This is my first time attempting this.

The parts manual clearly shows the 3 tapped nubs on the pressure plate, but there's none on mine. Why?

TIA
Patrick
'49M
 
Someone at sometime must have changed pressure plates on your M. It is snug to get the clutch and pressure plate out with the pressure plate collapsed. I don't think you could get yours out without splitting the tractor.
 
Because you don't need them, that's why.

By the time you get the bolts holding the pressure plate loosened, there is no pressure on the springs. It's not a problem.

Early M's you can get the clutch and pressure plate out of without splitting. Later Ms have a slightly larger clutch and the pressure plate won't quite come out, so you have to split the tractor. Super Ms are the same as later Ms.
 
(quoted from post at 03:01:44 03/22/13) Now that I dropped the belly pump I'd like to clean up all the oily dust off the clutch assembly. The service manual clearly explains how to collapse the springs with 3 of the 6 bolts before removal. Only problem is, there is no tapped holes in the pressure plate to suck in the springs. Will there be a problem if I don't collapse the springs before removal of the clutch assembly? Is there another way to skin this cat? This is my first time attempting this.

The parts manual clearly shows the 3 tapped nubs on the pressure plate, but there's none on mine. Why?

TIA
Patrick
'49M

The tapped holes are there, but they might be smaller than expected. Aftermarket replacement parts don't always follow the rules. The pressure plate DOES need to be collapsed if you are doing the job without splitting the tractor. You will never get the driveshaft out otherwise. (Been there, done that)
 
If you have a reasonably good shop with a chain hoist and a few blocks it is easier (may take longer)just to break down the tractor. I hate lying on my back and working overhead. With breaking the tractor you can do all of the work standing.
 
(quoted from post at 11:52:20 03/22/13) Why are you pulling the clutch to clean it?

For no particular reason John other than it's easy to get to at the moment with the belly pump off. I just want to spiffy it up a bit, and figured it would be a good opportunity to learn more about clutches . But now, I don't know. Some say that it doesn't matter collapsing the springs, others say that it does matter. The tractor runs just fine as is, so I might just leave it alone for fear of opening up a can of worms. My inexperience makes me think that way.

Patrick
'49M
 
rusty farmer wrote:

[The tapped holes are there, but they might be smaller than expected.]

Beleive me the holes are not there. I probed around with a thin sharp ice pick (a very good handy tool to have) and all the point did was slide around without snagging on anything. The bolts used to collapse the springs are 3/8"x 1" BTW.

Patrick
'49M
 
(quoted from post at 16:57:18 03/22/13) rusty farmer wrote:

[The tapped holes are there, but they might be smaller than expected.]

Beleive me the holes are not there. I probed around with a thin sharp ice pick (a very good handy tool to have) and all the point did was slide around without snagging on anything. The bolts used to collapse the springs are 3/8"x 1" BTW.

Patrick
'49M

That is not true. Mine were even smaller than that.
 

With all due respect, are you sure about that Sir? The clutch attaches to the flywheel using 6- 3/8"x1" cap screws. The service manual says to use 3 of those same cap screws to collapse the springs. But guess what, that 1" cap screw is not long enough to even reach the pressure plate. There apparently is some misinformation there somewhere. But like I said before, no tapped holes in the pressure plate for those 3 cap screws to attach to.
farmallclutch_zpsf7fa424e.jpg


Patrick
'49M
 
(quoted from post at 19:00:10 03/22/13)
(quoted from post at 16:57:18 03/22/13) rusty farmer wrote:

[The tapped holes are there, but they might be smaller than expected.]

Beleive me the holes are not there. I probed around with a thin sharp ice pick (a very good handy tool to have) and all the point did was slide around without snagging on anything. The bolts used to collapse the springs are 3/8"x 1" BTW.

Patrick
'49M

That is not true. Mine were even smaller than that.

Exactly. I did a complete replacement just over one year ago. 1940 M. The holes in question on mine were just 1/4". I had to jerry rig up a stack of flat washers so the head of a 1/4" bolt did not just drop through the 3/8" holes.
 
(quoted from post at 06:04:18 03/23/13)
(quoted from post at 19:00:10 03/22/13)
(quoted from post at 16:57:18 03/22/13) rusty farmer wrote:

[The tapped holes are there, but they might be smaller than expected.]

Beleive me the holes are not there. I probed around with a thin sharp ice pick (a very good handy tool to have) and all the point did was slide around without snagging on anything. The bolts used to collapse the springs are 3/8"x 1" BTW.

Patrick
'49M

That is not true. Mine were even smaller than that.

Exactly. I did a complete replacement just over one year ago. 1940 M. The holes in question on mine were just 1/4". I had to jerry rig up a stack of flat washers so the head of a 1/4" bolt did not just drop through the 3/8" holes.

Same thing here. The MD had three 1/4" holes even though the manual said to use the 6 pressure plate bolts. I went the screw the pp bolts in and was somewhat thrown.
 
I just used my pressure washer. Got a little wet though. I will say you CAN get it out without collapsing the pplate, Ive done it! But it probably would have been faster to split it. Theres a lot that has to come out to remove it to start with. My guess is you have some sort of aftermarket deal in there to start with.
 
You may get it out, but you will have a he-- of a time getting it back in. You can pull a clutch disc from a Super M with pulling the pressure plate assb. but do need the bolts to collapse it.
 
(quoted from post at 17:13:39 03/23/13) You may get it out, but you will have a he-- of a time getting it back in. You can pull a clutch disc from a Super M with pulling the pressure plate assb. but do need the bolts to collapse it.

Would you care to explain just HOW that can be accomplished??
 
(quoted from post at 08:25:15 03/24/13)
(quoted from post at 17:13:39 03/23/13) You may get it out, but you will have a he-- of a time getting it back in. You can pull a clutch disc from a Super M with pulling the pressure plate assb. but do need the bolts to collapse it.

Would you care to explain just HOW that can be accomplished??

Swearing and blood!?! :lol:

Seriously, I am with you. I have heard there is no way a SM will come out because it is a 12" clutch and the hole is smaller than that.
 
(quoted from post at 11:46:39 03/24/13)
(quoted from post at 08:25:15 03/24/13)
(quoted from post at 17:13:39 03/23/13) You may get it out, but you will have a he-- of a time getting it back in. You can pull a clutch disc from a Super M with pulling the pressure plate assb. but do need the bolts to collapse it.

Would you care to explain just HOW that can be accomplished??

Swearing and blood!?! :lol:

Seriously, I am with you. I have heard there is no way a SM will come out because it is a 12" clutch and the hole is smaller than that.

I've got a neighbor who says the clutch on a Super M CAN be changed from below, and since he owns, and farmed for years with those Super Ms, and always did all his own mechanic work, I have no reason to doubt his word.

What I DO question is how do you remove the clutch disc without removing the pressure plate?
 

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