one wire Delco install question,Any Help?

Bought at Auto Zone,One wire Delco to replace my junk generator.Is there just the one wire from the battery terminal on the back to the ammeter? Is that it?It is charging,checks about 13 and near 15 on the high side of charge.Ammeter works,but in reverse,so those wires need switched.It wasnt charging at first until I intermittently grounded the wire hooked up to the alternator,as soon as it sparked its been charging ever since.I tied my regulator wires together to make her run so now it runs on alternator power even with key shut off,so Im thinking it needs a wire directly to the ammeter.Wgat do you guys think?Thanks for any helpful advice.
 
IMO You should run your single + wire(I use #10 gauge for this) to athe Ammeter,then to the battery in the shortest run possible with the LEAST amount of splicing. That is all there really is to it.
 
The one wire systems are often restricted in ability to start charging unless spooled to about 2500RPM. Near wide open on a farm tractor with over driven speed on the pulleys is necessary.
If you have it wired through the existing regulator Bat and Gen wires, and they are good, it will work that way. If you have additional wires that connect to the ignition from the #1 terminal on the (one wire) alternator, you are probably messing with the already modified regulator. I would not do that. I would only have that one wire from the alt to the (correct) side of the amp meter.
I only install the 3 wire systems. They do not stay in a pilot draw (current draining) mode when off, and they start charging just as a car does at first rotation.
The link is what I would do. using a stock 10SI.
The bypass wire from the starter to the ballast resistor needs to have a diode in it if you use it. That diode (in addition to the one shown) prevents the starter from being in the ignition circuit. The ignition circuit cannot handle turning the starter. Jim
c51194.jpg
 
If its a ONE WIRE alternator its big output stud wires to the Load (NOT battery/starter) side of the ammeter. Thats where the wire that used to go to BAT on the Voltage Regulator wired, but Id replace it with a new 10 Gauge wire......

If you hooked up Load and Bat and other wires on the old VR wiring you could be backfeeding the coil, I cant say sitting here how you have things wired up now.

Id unhook and not connect any old VR wiring and simply run a wire from the alternators output up to the Load side of the ammeter. Absent any LOAD terminal on an old VR Id wire all loads (lights and ignition etc) to the load side of the ammeter, same side the alternator now wires to. )

If you changed from Pos to Neg ground Id also swap coil wires side to side, you want the coils - to the distributor for Neg ground.

John T
 
Im pretty sure all Im just back bleeding juice through the ignition after wiring stuff up to run.I believe unhooking from it and running a heavy wire to ammeter will be my next move.It already has the coil hooked up the right way,as it was already a 12 volt system with the ol generator,but it has been switched around to Neg Ground.I had an old 74 chevy truck one time I couldnt kill even after unhooking the battery after the key switch had gone bad and stuffed my coat in the carb to choke it down,Thanks for the helpful ideas fellers!Gotta get offa here and go look at bulls.Thanks for now
 

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