Finally put the 300 back to work

Zachary Hoyt

Well-known Member
I plowed a little snow tonight and will plow out the mill tomorrow. I
am very glad to have it back up and running even with the noise.
When I wear my noise reduction earmuffs I can't hear it but I can
still feel it in my feet a little. I got a seat cushion from Surplus
Center along with some other stuff and I am very happy with how
much more comfortable the seat feels. I am also hoping it will
boost the tractor's self esteem and help it not to break down as
often. Thank you again to all of you who have been giving me
advice during the repair saga of the last 7 weeks.
Zach
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All straight cut gears (bevel and spurr) make noise. There are some very expensive gears used to drive helicopter rotors that are computer profiled. they still make noise. The purpose is to gain reliability in a single point failure location. (having the rotor stop is not good) The straight cut gear is still one of the highest efficiency power transfer available.
It will be OK in my opinion. Jim
 
(quoted from post at 14:50:44 02/23/13) All straight cut gears (bevel and spurr) make noise....

Yep most of my old antique tractors make some slight rear end noise. A little is noise is okay. However if you want to listen to something that will drive you nuts then play some videos of some old Oliver 77 or 88 models. The extreme whine they made brand new would have been unpleasant for me to have to get used to. (note: I am not bashing Oliver as I love a lot of their stuff).
 
Zach - Is that the same loader you had on your previous h?

I would be interested in seeing a frontal and side views of tractor with that loader mounted. (If you have posted those loader pics before then I must have missed them).
 
That old sucker best be earning her keep if she knows what's good for her. That's enough down time for at least 7-10 years!
 
Thank you, that is interesting to know. I know that all three of the Allis Chalmers tractors I have had in running condition(two Cs and a B) have been quite loud in third gear especially. I am much happier to have the 300 working and making noise that sitting around in pieces quietly.
Zach
 
(quoted from post at 18:49:07 02/23/13) Zach - Is that the same loader you had on your previous h?

I would be interested in seeing a frontal and side views of tractor with that loader mounted. (If you have posted those loader pics before then I must have missed them).

The McCormick #31 loader will fit right on the 300 through 450 tractors just the same as it fits on the H and M, BUT, a spacer is required between the rear axle and the mounting bracket of the loader. The spacer is required to accomodate the extra length of the hundred series tractors. At one time, the spacer was available through IH.
 
As MIster T said the loader hooks up just the same but since I
didn't have the IH spacers I used some spare drawbar bracket
parts from an H parts tractor. The box steel pieces already had
the correct bolt holes drilled through them and the angle iron
pieces were bent on this drawbar so I had not been able to sell
the drawbar brackets whole. I just had to go to the hardware
store and get some 5/8x10" bolts and everything was fine. At
first I got galvanized carriage bolts but I could only get the nuts
onto them if I used grease and a lot of force and I could not get
them all the way tight. After that I found some regular grade 5
hex head bolts that worked a lot better, but I still have to replace
the carriage bolts on one side.
Zach
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I would use a bucket if I had one, but the loader came just as you
see it on a parts tractor a couple of years ago. I have a bucket and
forks on the Massey 35 that I do use, and I used that tractor to plow
snow while the 300 was apart but it spins out a lot sooner and will
not push nearly as much snow with tire chains as the 300 will push
without them.
Zach
 
(quoted from post at 18:52:34 02/23/13) As MIster T said the loader hooks up just the same but since I
didn't have the IH spacers I used some spare drawbar bracket
parts from an H parts tractor. The box steel pieces already had
the correct bolt holes drilled through them and the angle iron
pieces were bent on this drawbar so I had not been able to sell
the drawbar brackets whole. I just had to go to the hardware
store and get some 5/8x10" bolts and everything was fine. At
first I got galvanized carriage bolts but I could only get the nuts
onto them if I used grease and a lot of force and I could not get
them all the way tight. After that I found some regular grade 5
hex head bolts that worked a lot better, but I still have to replace
the carriage bolts on one side.
Zach
If you were using regular steele nuts with the galv bolts that can be and is a problem at times. Always use galv nut with galv bolts. Check it out at the bolt bins next time. They may go on part way but usualy not a good fit. Angle iron
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