Simplifying hydraulic plumbing on Stage II Super M?

TSEliot

New User
My Super M "came" with the plumbing set up you see pictured, primarily to run a 3 point and two remotes I don't need. Now that some of those hoses are worn and I have several leaks at the Christmas tree/belly pump area, I would like to plumb this directly to a DuAl 325 loader and its built-in reservoir. My H has a similar set up off its live pump to a DuAl 325. Any issues in doing this? It just seems like this is unnecessarily complicated, and with more connections come more leaks.
a99206.jpg
 
Sure you can bypass all that. The two hoses to the far right of your picture are the pressure and suction. Just connect the pressure to the IN on your Dual loader valve, and the suction to the reservoir.

That will bypass the factory hydraulics.

IF you want to get rid of the reservoir... wink-wink, nudge-nudge...
 
Reason the pressure line going on to the liftall unit is teed at the valve is because the pressure relief valve is in the liftall unit. Unless you tee off the pressure line also you need a pressure relief some place else. Only reason the suction line is teed is for the return fluid back through the remote control valve when using it. But if you keep useing the liftall unit for pressure relief you also need a suction line from it for bypass fluid to return.
If wanting to bypass all of the liftall parts, the loader needs to have a relief valve or one added in the pressure line with dump to the suction side or the loader tank.
 
Sorry, I forgot about the relief valve. You definitely need some sort of relief valve in the system, but most modern spool valves come with them built in.
 
I would be interested in that valve and related hardware if you decide to sell it. I have a stage II SMD that has an aftermarket valve and I would like to go original.
 
(quoted from post at 10:31:35 01/30/13) I would be interested in that valve and related hardware if you decide to sell it. I have a stage II SMD that has an aftermarket valve and I would like to go original.

Is the bracket that hooks the valve to the tank the correct bracket?
 
I'm don't really know what "correct" is since I don't have one to go by. I don't think my tractor has ever had this style valve on it though. The aftermarket valve was sort of rigged on a homemade bracket and all the plugs in the torque tube are intact. It appears to me that the tractor probably came without the rear remotes and someone added them with a makeshift rig.

Sorry for the thread hijack!
 
Thanks everybody. A few have inquired about buying the tree valve, which I would be willing to part with come May.

What is a reasonable price for that valve?
 
What is a reasonable price for that valve?

I would pay a fair price if you keep all the mounting hardware, brackets, control rods, etc. together. We can discuss what a fair price is, and I assume you would have to box and ship it. I can help there by sending a UPS label that doesn't cost you anything. I have a UPS account and ship daily in our business (not tractor related). You would just affix the label to the box and give it to any UPS driver.

Let me know if you wish to discuss. Thanks.
 

We sell tractor parts! We have the parts you need to repair your tractor - the right parts. Our low prices and years of research make us your best choice when you need parts. Shop Online Today.

Back
Top