Touch control overhaul

They got my seal kit in for the touch control on Thursday. Everything you see in the picture all said and done was $119.47. Did not think that was to bad. All the o-rings have a white dot on them so you know they are facing out when installed. The o-ring on the plug for the pressure relief valve was eaten almost in too. It has been leaking for awhile. When this valve does release high pressure, it dumps it back in the bottom of the case in the oil reservoir. That in turn is pressurizing the entire case. I see why there are so many bolts in the top and bottom covers. I don't see a vent of any kind in the case. The only leak I had was one of the spool valves had the o-ring blow out of it. I know why now. I am thinking about putting a vent in the top cover to stop that from happening again.
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I think you should forget about putting a vent hole somewhere in the unit. Where pressure can escape contaminates or moisture will also have an entry point neither of which should be in the system. I believe if a vent was required one would of been provided by the engineers who designed the system and unit. If you don't over fill the unit above the proper level (1/2" below the bottom of the fill plug hole) there is probably sufficient room for any expansion due to pressure and heat which might build up during use. Good luck but you should find your unit works correctly after being cleaned and new o-rings and seals installed, Hal.
 
I don't know about in this instance, but a colored dot on o-rings usually means the material it's made from and it's durometer or hardness. Been a few years (20 +) since I dealt with them and I don't remember the code any more.
 
The system is not supposed to be vented.

There is so little air space in the system, that you can't put a vent where oil won't leak/squirt out. It'll be a mess.

The reason it blew out the o-rings is because they're OLD, not because of some flaw in the system. New o-rings and it'll be fine for another 50 years.
 
If you were to mount a loader on the C and use the factory pump, you can vent it. However to vent it and use a loader you need more capacity, so you can add a 45 degree fitting and extend a reservoir above the fill hole, then it needs to be vented. Otherwise it should not be vented.
 

A "how to" on this would be awesome!! I have several Super A and 140 TC units that I would like to rebuild, but am just initimidated to do so,
 
I agree on the dot markings meaning material etc. Some special S-treated o-rings used by IH even had the part number on them.
 
(quoted from post at 22:57:19 01/29/13) Touch control manual-- GSS-1024
Binderbooks has them
Dennis

Thanks for the heads up! How is that manual? Easy to follow? Thorough? I've heard that some of the directions aren't that good....didn't know about the Blue Ribbon Manual though.
 
(quoted from post at 11:45:14 01/29/13)
(quoted from post at 22:57:19 01/29/13) Touch control manual-- GSS-1024
Binderbooks has them
Dennis

Thanks for the heads up! How is that manual? Easy to follow? Thorough? I've heard that some of the directions aren't that good....didn't know about the Blue Ribbon Manual though.

I think the manual is very good and was glad I had it when I did my 'C'
Goes through testing, troubleshooting, adjustments. parts identification and assembly with pictures.
Dennis
 
The reason I mentioned the dot on the o-rings was the sheet to install the seals says to roll the o-rings on, don't slide them on. If you have never installed o-rings before, this is a big help being able to tell the o-ring is facing out. But yes, you are correct, the dot, color and hardness will tell what material they are made out of. All the o-rings I took out were the standard Buna N. The new ones were Buna N ,Viton and a blue o-ring material that I not figured out yet. Putting the new o-rings on was not a problem as I have messed with them many times before. The hardest one to get on was the single ring that goes on the end of the 2 spool valves. The biggest help to me was getting all the gaskets. That alone was worth the price of the kit.
 
Exactlly what I did on a FEL (2 way cylinders on lift and dump)on a SA. I capped the top of the added pipe nipple, ( 2" dia X 8"), drilled a hole into the side of the cap, threaded it and put in an extention filled with a material similar to what was used on the vent on the Farmall M hydraulic fill cap. Don't fill it full or it will make a mess seeking its own operating level. Once you get the cylinders full, it doesn't take a lot of additional oil to operate it.
 
I ordered my TSS bulliten from Binder. Thanks for the tip!

Rick, where did you get you overhaul kiit??
 
(quoted from post at 22:12:09 01/30/13)
(quoted from post at 07:24:08 01/30/13) I ordered my TSS bulliten from Binder. Thanks for the tip!

Rick, where did you get you overhaul kiit??

RTR, You'll be happy with the book. CaseIH Dealer can get the kit
Have fun
Dennis

Since these are OLD tractors, did the kit include EVERYTHING that could possibly be needed to do a complete overhaul? I'd hate to install the kit and find out that another peice in there was bad that didn't come with the kit. Just let me know what I should plan on ordering.....I'll get much better info and help than the CASE IH dealer would be able to give....sometimes I feel that the Napa parts store people are better help than my local dealer.
 
(quoted from post at 02:49:50 01/31/13) Here is a link to the GSS-1024...
Blue Ribbon

Thanks Charlie....haha, just as I order it too!! I thought I knew of all the manuals on that site, but I guess not!. oh well....
 
I got it from my local Case IH dealer. They ordered it under a "stock order" so I did not have to pay freight. The new part number is 354007R96. All said and done price was 119.47. It took 3 days to get it. Messick's had them in stock for the same price, but you have to pay shipping and handling.
 
(quoted from post at 04:56:13 01/31/13) I got it from my local Case IH dealer. They ordered it under a "stock order" so I did not have to pay freight. The new part number is 354007R96. All said and done price was 119.47. It took 3 days to get it. Messick's had them in stock for the same price, but you have to pay shipping and handling.

But did it include every replacable part that could be needed? Or will there possibly be other parts I would need to order? Thanks for the info!
 
(quoted from post at 03:57:12 01/31/13)
(quoted from post at 02:49:50 01/31/13) Here is a link to the GSS-1024...
Blue Ribbon

Thanks Charlie....haha, just as I order it too!! I thought I knew of all the manuals on that site, but I guess not!. oh well....

Well darn!!! I just looked through the service manual TSS-1024 and realized that there isn't much more info than the parts breakdown pictures found on the parts manuals. It seems like the information needed to instruct you how to rebuild the unit is found in the Technical Service Bullitens that they list in the manual. I sure hope that those come with the copy I bought from Binder. If not, I guess I'll just have to rebuild by just looking at the breakdown without any specific instruction or specific pictures to help. Where could one find the TSB's if they're not included with the manual from Binder?
 
I don't think you will be getting the TSB with the handbook as I didn't when I ordered one years ago. I was able to obtain a copy of a TSB (totally unrelated subject matter) from the parts manager at the CaseIH dealership where I buy most all of my IHC parts. I believe the CaseIH dealerships maintain a library of them for their use when needed. Good luck in your endeavor, Hal.
 
(quoted from post at 17:18:01 01/30/13)
(quoted from post at 04:56:13 01/31/13) I got it from my local Case IH dealer. They ordered it under a "stock order" so I did not have to pay freight. The new part number is 354007R96. All said and done price was 119.47. It took 3 days to get it. Messick's had them in stock for the same price, but you have to pay shipping and handling.

But did it include every replacable part that could be needed? Or will there possibly be other parts I would need to order? Thanks for the info!

The kit includes all the soft parts for two or three p/n valve assembly. The only extra item I used was a main relief spring. Any other failed items will have to be identified at disassembly.
Just dig in and keep your parts in order and take some pictures as it is disassembled if needed.
Dennis
Almost forgot,
Also had to replace the boots on the spools which were extra
 
My boots were fine. I cleaned them up with leather seat spray, except for the over spray of paint, they look great. I saw the replacement boots on I think Messicks site and they are not cheap. They are also a rubber bellows now. If I had to replace mine, I was going to take them down to the shoe repair shop and have them just make me a set. There is nothing to them. Once you start, when you need help or questions, just post them on here. They are great about helping out. I would start a new post instead of using this one. Good luck.
 

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