300 progress (a little)

I got the upper transmission shaft back in today and was going
to check the gear mesh but ran into two problems. The prussian
blue did not seem to like the temperature, around 16 F, even
though I had kept it inside and then in my pocket. It seemed
that as soon as I touched it to the gear teeth it became a very
thick paste that was hard to spread into an even film. The
second problem was that the upper shaft has about 1/8" of play
at the front end which it seems to me is likely to throw off the
reading. It looks like I will have to unsplit the TA from the
transmission before checking the mesh. I got started taking the
TA apart to replace the output shaft/constant mesh gear but I
have a way to go yet. I had it all apart back in the summer so at
least there should not be any stuck bolts or any excessive level
of confusion. I will get back at it tomorrow, which is supposed
to be warmer.
Zach

So if you are beginning to re-assemble, then I assume you found some parts? Did you buy new?...used parts?...used tranny assembly?...do tell more.

I enjoy following your repair threads since I am too soft to be out working in that bitter cold myself - most of my repair projects are on hold till warmer weather. Unfortunately, I do not really even have luxury of windbreak or roof to work in so work is literally outdoors- my tiny barn is simply too full.

looks like some bad teeth on the one gear

I got used parts from D Slater, who also had the parts I needed in
the summer when I had to replace the clutch and IPTO drive and
was lacking a TA lever. The parts arrived 9 days ago but I didn't get
started putting any in till yesterday when it warmed up.
Zach

I think it may be a camera illusion. I've been over them all pretty carefully since I am hoping not to have to open this up again for a while.
Zach

It is necessary to hold that trans shaft with the input shaft/TA or patterns are not valid. The Blue can work in cold temps, nut serious resistance to moving (as though loaded by driving up a slight incline.) Looking very good. Jim

If you put back the original gears, or if they are a matched pair, use the original shims, if you don't there will be a new pattern and the gears will be noisy -- in other words don't try to adjust them, as has been said by others on this forum. A couple of years ago I replaced all the bearings in my Super A trans meaning a complete disassembly. I didn't like the clearance or backlash and ordered 2 or 3 new shims, still couldn't get it adjusted right. So, I put the old ones back in the original order, and decided not to try to adjust it. Has more then the "new" backlash given in the manual, but has no excessive noise. If none of what I just said does not apply to your situation, it may not, ignore it.

His Ring and pinion are not original. Jim

The ring and pinion were both somewhat damaged when I opened up this tractor, but I got a good used matched set of gears and the original shims from D Slater. I think the alignment should be okay but I want to check it while I have it open. A couple of years ago I put Super H gears and shafts in my H that I had then and I put the Super H pinion and shims on the original H ring gear. I must have been born lucky because I ran that tractor for another year with no problems or noises from the rear end. I didn't even check the mesh, I just looked at it and thought it looked like it was probably okay.
Zach

Thank you, that makes sense. I will get the TA apart and back together tomorrow and then I can remount the cases back together and see where I am. I think I can provide enough resistance by turning the upper shaft or maybe pushing 1st gear with one hand and holding back on the wheel hub with the other hand, but I am not sure. I can only generate a quite low amount of torque pushing the gear by hand, so it shouldn't take much to be all the load I can move.
Zach

Zach you can use the transmission input shaft with bearing cage put in the front transmission housing opening to hold the main shaft at the front. Put the piliot bearing on the main shaft first. When checking a pattern, turn the pinion shaft and put some drag on the ring gear. That way the pinion shaft will try to shift forward as much as the ball bearing lets it. If turning the ring gear with drag on the pinion shaft, shaft will shift rearward a few thousands. Check pattern with pinion shaft trying to move forward.
Differential bearing support housings have the oring thats kind of costly. may want to leave the orings off until the final assembly. If the differential bearings don't get to tight use the right support housing in or out to get the pattern you want (may also have to adjust pinion shaft if off) and that should be near the backlash gears had when removed. Put that on a paper if you found it. If the differential bearings are getting squeesed when adjusting the left support will need a shim or shims added.
After you have the gear pattern or adjustment wanted, shim the left differential bearing support so you have a .010 to .020 shift or play on the differential from side to side.

Thank you very much for the detailed advice. I tried putting the input shaft in place but I found that there was still about the same amount of play on the main shaft since there was only one bearing on each shaft that was anchored in the housing. I went ahead and put the TA back in the housing and got it moved back over by the tractor and tomorrow I will put it in place and see what the pattern is. I have not been able to find a way to remove the bull gears or the bull pinion carriers separately on the 300, I seem to have to unbolt the carrier, slide the axle out of the bull gear and then rotate the carrier toward the front of the tractor so I can lift the bull gear out and then slide the carrier out. On the Hs I have had apart I could remove the axle and then roll the bull gear back to allow the carrier to slide out, but there doesn't seem to be room on the 300.
Zach

Not to sure about things. Is that the replacement ring gear in the picture or the old one? Axle housings can stay on but the axles need moved part way out of the housings. At least past the bull gear splines. Then the bull gears need moved to let the differential bearing support housings come out each side. May have to remove the PTO to get the bull gear out. Never tried to move a bull gear with the pto in, so can't say for sure. Don't think so though. Leave the bull gears out of the way until the differential is shimed where you want. You can try to get by with just the right axle and bull gear moved. But if the other side ends up needing shims added or subtracted the left axle and bull gear will have to be moved.
If you assemble the t/a unit and get a helper or some other support to hold it in the front transmission housing hole it will line the main shaft up okay. Putting the t/a and center housing on may be the best but if you need to add or subtract shims on the main shaft the t/a needs removed. Unless you cut the shims to remove or install. Some have done that. Since you have the original main shaft bearing, bearing housing and shims with the shaft. High % of the time it will be good in another housing. Good Luck.

Nothing wrong with checking it, but after my SA experience I would be very hesitant to change it.

Thank you very much. I had wondered about cutting shims but had thought that maybe that would be a sin. I have had both axle housings off to clean and I replaced one gasket that had been leaking. The ring gear is the one that you sent. I have had everything out of the case and cleaned it all out with kerosene and now have begun to put things back. I will post another picture tomorrow once I get the TA housing back on and check the gears. I am hoping that the ring and pinion will line up, but if not I can always take the housing off again. I found that putting the TA back together went a lot faster this time than the first time I did it.
Zach