Update on Farmall H Loose lift-all drive shaft.

I am thinking that when I used my Lift-All, the round nut never loosened up ( turned counter clockwise) to make the drive shaft a tight fit. I decided to loosen the round nut ( Turn it counter clockwise) with a pipe wrench and now got the drive shaft really tight. I am wondering if I could get it too tight and put too much pressure on the shaft coming out of the transmission or on the shaft that drives the Lift-all pump? I also put some blue Locktight in the round nut before tightening it. Thanks!
 
Both the transmission nut and the pump drive nut tighten clockwise. As trasmission nut is doing the driveing and the pump nut is being driven they both tighten when in use. You do not want that shaft between pump and transmission tight. It should be free fit or you will damage pump. It floats on the couplings. Should not flop around but just float.
 
The round nuts are supposed to be tightened clockwise, it is normal for the driveshaft to be loose inside the retaining collars.
 
If I turn the round nut clockwise on the transmission, it screws in more and makes the driveshaft loose. If I back it off counter clockwise, it tightens up the driveshaft
 
You can loosen them as much as you like, but the rotation of the shafts driving the pump will tighten the nuts back where they should be. Don't worry about the shaft being loose, it was loose the day it left the factory, it was not made to be a tight fit.
 
The drive coupling is supposed to be tight against the shaft so oil doesn't leak past the threads. It will "self tighten" with normal operation. Same principle with the coupling on the pump.
Loctite will REALLY give you a problem when needing to change the seal later!
 
As below, the round nuts (drive and driven coupling connectors) are not holding the shaft. Cotter pins through holes in the couplers and shaft hold the ends in place. Use cotters that are tight in the holes, and not too long through the other side. Jim
 
Also the transmission countershaft nut being tight to the front countershaft bearing is what locates the shaft from moving end to end wise.
 
I would not have put loctite on those threads. That is a large area to break loose if needed to later.
 
I worked on it today. I took the round nut off, the Locktite wasn't too bad because there must have been oil on the threads. I reassembled it with the biggest cotter pins that would fit. I bent the ends over so they won't catch anything. If I turn the shaft 1 turn in to the transmission, the drive shaft is loose. If I then turn the driveshaft out 1 turn, the driveshaft is tight against the round nuts. I left it loose. I guess my concern is that if the driveshaft is loose, there may be wear problems. Thanks!
 
With much respect, the foundation of understanding of this repair is faulty.
THE scoop:
The shaft is supposed to be loose between the drive and driven couplings. The only thing holding it in place should be the cotters.
The couplings cannot be left loose, they will tighten up as soon as the tractor is operated.
The threads on the couplers (you call them round nuts) are right hand thread on both drive and driven.
The shaft turns in the direction of tightening them into the trans and into the pump. No choice.
Leave it as is, it is now correct, and both drive and driven are tight into their threads.
Jim
 

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