ken house

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does anyone know of penetrant better than kroil? home made or store bought

kroil is on sale at


http://www.kanolabs.com/google/
 
ZEP , i have found nothing better. Been usen it for over forty years . Hard to find and it is not cheap .We buy direct and get a case at a time .
 
It is said that ATF and acetone mixed 50/50 is better then all the rest and cheap by far. If you look in the archives you can find a chart that has been posted many times that agrees to what I say. Is it right or wrong that I can not say but I use ATF 99% of the time
 
Kroil is one of the best on the market in my humble opinion. Blaster is also fairly good. Price wise, Blaster is much cheaper than Kroil.

I tried the acetone/tranny fluid mix. It seemed to work well, but I had trouble keeping the two mixed properly. Not sure what the issue was, but it separated on me, and the acetone evaporated off.

The idea of a good penetrating oil is to have a very low surface tension. This allows it to literally penetrate the microscopic pores in the rust crystals, and "break them down" somewhat. Lubrication is also an important factor. If you look at Kroil and Blaster, they have the correct characteristics mentioned: low surface tention and lubricity. Solvents are great for penetrating microscopic pores, but they have little to no lubricity. Diesel is a good low viscosity lubricant, but has a much higher surface tension than Kroil or Blaster.

An independent study showed that the Acetone/tranny mix was one of the best penetrants. They tested penetrants for break-out torque on rusted nuts, with interesting results. They arranged a subjective test of popular penetrants, with the control being the torque required to remove the nut from an equivalent "scientifically rusted" environment:


Penetrating oil ........... Average load to break free

None ..............................516 pounds
WD-40 .......................... 238 pounds
PB Blaster .....................214 pounds
Liquid Wrench ............... 127 pounds
Kano Kroil ......................106 pounds
ATF-Acetone mix............ 53 pounds


The Acetone lowers the surface tension of the tranny fluid and "transports" it into the pores.....then evaporates.
 
I help recycle old tractors,and we use 1/3 tranny fluid, and 2/3 old diesel for penetrant and for coating heads, cranks, and general soaking. Works for us. Dave
 
A 55 gallon drum of kroil is a multiple-lifetime supply for me.

I bought a gallon of PB Blaster about three years ago, and I don't think I've used a quart yet.
 
Where do you get "Kroil" at?. I have yet to see it on display at any of the parts houses in North Missouri or Southern Iowa. Do you get it from a parts store or order it from a vendor? TIA
 
I see Kroil at guns shows and on ebay. the last 2 8 oz cans I bought, I got on ebay. Considering buying a gallon to refill the 8 oz cans.

Also, I use Blaster for general use. I use the Kroil on really tough cases, as it is a little too pricey for general use IMHO. One thing I have found about Kroil. If I am not in a huge hurry, I give the patient part a shot of Kroil. A couple of days later I work the part. I have yet to not have one come apart AND without breaking.

Like I said, I had good results with the acetone/tranny mix, just couldn't keep it mixed.
 
I vote acetone and trans fluid. I mix a little as I need it. The acetone will evaporate.

I use it when I have a fastener that I can't replace or don't want to break. You have to allow some time.

If its a common fastener I'll hit it with WD40, it's cheap and works well enough, and crank it till it breaks loose or breaks off.
 

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