Taking the deck off Farmall C

If I can find the time this weekend I am going to start the process of changing the leaking axle seals on the old Farmall C. I am planning on taking the deck off and was just wondering. Does the light switch box and steering support parts need to come off to get the deck off the tractor? This will be my first time to pull one of these off.
 
That assy is mounted to the bell housing and i didnt remove it when i had to replace seals and the oil slinger gear. But i did need to seperate he tranny from the bell housing as i had to take the tranny apart to replace the slinger gear.
 
Its been a while ago but if you remove the wheel and hub then the axle housing cant the seal be replaced then without removing the tranny cover. I had a cherry picker to remove the tranny cover. But i did replace the axle seal and thought i could do that without removing the tranny cover.
 
Here are a few pictures from when we did the same thing on my 230 a few years back. My helper, Michael is now 19 and in college! It is a lot easier to move everything out of the way. It is only 3 bolts holding the housing to the trans. cover. It is possible to remove axle housings without taking the whole cover off, but it is a whole lot more convenient to take it off first and have room to work...see the size of hole you have from the back.

Mark

Remove Wheels and block it up:

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Remove top cover:

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Remove Axles and repair seals:

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Replace assemblies:

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Put wheels back on and split tractor to repair leaking transmission input seals:

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Replace everything and enjoy!

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Is it possible to slide the axel housing off over the axel and leave the axel in place. Or am i just dreaming getting it done that easy.
 
Paul,
You can not pull the axle housing off and leave the axle. There are retainers and a snap ring keeping that from happening.

You will need to remove the gauge box and light bar assy because there are two capscrews under it holding the deck down.
You will need a hoist of some sort to handle the deck. It needs to come straight up a few inches to clear the shift forks.
You need to get inside the case to remove a retainer plate held by two 3/8'' capscrews that hold the bull gear to the axle. Then the axle and housing assy can be removed and the bull gear stays in the trans case.

It may be possible to go through the hole in the back of the case by removing the pto but I think it will be very hard to line up the splines and bull gear when going back together. The bull gear will drop a bit when the axle is removed.

Do you have the parts book? It will show you what is in there.
If not , go to 'caseihparts' and print what you need.
Good luck
Dennis
 
You need to get inside the case to remove a retainer plate held by two 3/8'' capscrews that hold the bull gear to the axle. Then the axle and housing assy can be removed and the bull gear stays in the trans case.

It may be possible to go through the hole in the back of the case by removing the pto but I think it will be very hard to line up the splines and bull gear when going back together. The bull gear will drop a bit when the axle is removed.


I copied and pasted Dennis's advise. I did just that to a 400. The opening is probably larger on the 400, but the bull gears will also be smaller on your C. I think you should try it first and if it isn't to your liking you can then pull the deck.
SDE
 
Thank you for the information. That is what i will do. I do
have a manual but was unsure if the housing would would
slide off. You have answered that for me. Is the axel and
housing very heavy or is it something i can handle by hand?
I am looking forward to turning some wrenchs. I work in a
hospital and have been pulling tons of OT the last few
months and i cant wait to get my hands dirty. Thank you all
for your help.
 
A long line up bolt or two with heads removed would be a help and yes some kind of lifting device would also be good. You'll have one for the cover anyway if thats the way you are planning to do it.
Dennis
 
Yes, the light box,steering,touch control linkage all need to come apart to remove the top cover.

I stopped the leaks at the trans to axle housing by unbolting it. It will slide out about 3/4". That was enough room to scrape all the old gasket out. Use plenty of cleaner degreaser to clean it up. I then used silicone to seal it up and put it back together. Takes a couple hours vs a couple days/weeks to "do it right".

This is a short cut but an acceptable one for me on this working tractor.

My dilemma is where to stop. If I'm going to start and tear it down that far I'd replace inner axle seals, outer axle seals, gaskets, check trans etc. etc. etc.

Several "minor repairs" I've started ended up taking months for me to get parts rounded up and find the time to put it back together.

Another issue to take into account is the things your talking about disassembling have probably not been apart since the day it was built. I seem to end up breaking things that just add time to the project.
 
(quoted from post at 17:58:58 01/17/13) ...
It may be possible to go through the hole in the back of the case by removing the pto but I think it will be very hard to line up the splines and bull gear when going back together. The bull gear will drop a bit when the axle is removed.
...
SDE

I have heard to shim the bull gear so the axle will go back on easier. I have heard it goes a lot easier that way.
 

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