Ok Guys,

Long, short range plans of a tractor shed/house.
I want to build something to store three tractors and my first pick up in. With money being so tight and me not wanting to give up any of the mentioned. What is a cheap Shed, Barn and I have even heard the name run in shed. Can you post some pics of your Sheds/Storage areas for your toys.

Thanks,

James
 
Are you looking for a heated concrete floored shop, or just something to keep the rain off? What constraints are you subject to in the way of zoning, homeowners" association rules, special local building code requirements, etc? How much of the work can you do yourself?
 
here's a shed 40 x 24 , tin is 18 a sheet , about as cheap as it gets
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Where at, and how many can you ship to Indiana? My 30'x40' with 12' side walls, one 10'x10' overhead door, one walk door, insulation in the ceiling only, and concrete. Cost me just a shade under $12k in 2000.
 
I got bids for a 30x40x12 this fall with a 20' overhead in one end, a 15' slider on the side and a walk in door, no concrete for $18,000.
 
Must have been a Morton building, there are at least four builders here that will build on your site for 12 grand. Pole barn, sliding door. NEMO
 
J Strickland I'm just north of st.louis 20 miles and BLITZ BUILDERS of southern INDIANA sold me a 30' X 80'long X 15' high one open side for $13,500 put up. GREAT DEAL for today's economy. I have a 60'X 80' & 40'x84' so at 67 yrs.old I didn't need a $60,000 shed. Check it out. www.blitzbuilders.com Good Luck GENE
 
Not to hijack this thread, but when you guys are having buildings put up, does the main contractor do everything? Im talking grading/leveling, building, concrete, electrical, water, etc. Would the main contractor do all that or does he sub-contract out or is all the extra stuff on you to find different contractors for? Just curious as Im hoping to get a building put up next fall- 40x56x12 with a number of doors and half the building walled off to be heated and have concrete floor.
 
If you have a little creativity it don't take much money. Most of my sheds were built from salvage materials.

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This is the barn I built in town. I think I had about $3000 in it.

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You asked about a "run-in" shed. That's a style of shed that's open on one side so animals can... wait for it... RUN IN and out whenever they want.

Nebraska Cowman's 3rd picture shows a "run-in" shed.
 
I'd steer clear of Astro buildings. Oldest son had one on the place he bought, & had to tear it down. Leaked so bad that it rotted the 2x8's on the trusses.
We put up a 42x80 quonset in 1986, & it was $6500---& we had to put it up. $1000 for concrete in the footings. Imagine the building would be double by now--what with steel going up like it has. So far, we haven't had any poles rot off.
Make the shed twice as big as you think it needs to be---if you can afford it. Your billfold will determine what size shed you put up.
 
I agree with building 2X as big as you need it to be.

Also, if what your storing isnt a daily user, you may be able to find an off-site storage location until you can get the funds together for the shed you want. Actual shed space is scarce, but barn space usually isnt. If you have smaller tractors and a pick-up, you may get away with parking them in a barn with a tarp thrown over them. Just a thought.
 
Ive got 3 Ms, an F-14, an I-4, a Cub, A 154 LoBoy, my popup, 3 lawnmowers, 4 bicycles,a golf cart and a jet ski in it right now! Sure, I have to move some stuff around sometimes, but its a shed, not a workshop! All of the tractors and mowers, except for one mower, just back out. This was made just before I put the last sheet of metal down the right side.
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I'd build the heated and concrete half with 8 or 10 foot walls. In other words, a stepped roofline.
 
Check into a 'WeatherPort' tentioned fabric structure.They dont need any permits,are long lasting,easily erectable/moveable,pleasing to look at.They are available in any size(built to order) and are 'cost effective'Beware,there are a lot of lesser quality immitations out there.
 
I plan on doing all the work myself. I live in a town were you should get permits, but I try to slip it in under the radar. It would have to be more or less a pole shed with a dirt floor for now with three kids at home. Two of which are in college and one in high school Senior year.

James
 
Mine was for a level site, meaning I did the dirt work. I also ran my own electric and water. You can find guys who will do it all, but most often they are outfits like Morton who charge more. Most builders have subs they work with and will recommend or use.
 
I built my small shed with poles and a dirt floor. Would never do the dirt floor again because it just turned to a fine dust after a while. Later poured concrete in it and best thing I ever did to it. If it's open (run in) on one side, maybe it wouldn't turn to dust, or you could put rock in it.
Also didn't build it big enough and added a "lean to" on one side a few years later.
 
(quoted from post at 10:57:28 01/16/13) I'd build the heated and concrete half with 8 or 10 foot walls. In other words, a stepped roofline.

If the shop will have a new combine in it, I would go with a 15' wall. If you don't mess with large equipment, then the shorter 12' walls would work okay.
 
Have both a Cleary and a Lester. No problems with either. My 30x40x12 Lester with 10 ft awning on one side and 18x10 ft overhead door cost in the 30s insulated with concrete heat and electrical
 
A guy at work told me if you build a shed get all your figures on paper (HxLxW) and go out and measure the spot where you are going to put it and then add 10ft to the length and width and go with at least 12ft doors!
He had real good luck with Cleary!
 

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