2504 injection pump rebuild kit?

Does anyone know where I can find a rebuild kit for a 2504 injection pump / diesel?

You can get the stuff at nearly any fuel injection service center. Down side is you have to listen to them shame and dispirit you, or to try to scare you ("you'll over-fuel it and blow the motor!"), as they're passing the parts across the counter. Best to get the stuff by mail,less chance for interrogation.

Yea you can buy the stuff ya need , yea you can take it apart and stuff it back together . BUT WHAT YOU CAN NOT DO IT SET IT OR TEST IT unless you have the tooling and a Test stand. With all the years i have twisted wrenches and with all i know that is one thing that i do not do , i let the man with the stand do it only because i do not have the stand to run the pump and see what it is doing BEFORE i put it on the tractor. Now if you all want to donate i would go by that nice 8015 Bacharac stand that is for sale and start doing pumps . Just a small donation of 12 grand and anothere 10 grand for the stuff that is needed to do the rest of the pumps that this stand was not set up for . Just like you don't have the scan tool for your car or pick up you may have a CODE reader but not the scan tool like the dealer ya may find the problem with the scan tool then again it may LIE to you and tell you wrong. Just like on my own 806 the throttle shaft started leaking , not a big deal and for 54 cents we fixed that to get by on but the pump still needs to go in and have the gov ring replaced and a new head and rotor installed AND SET . and i want to see how many C C's of fuel i am getting. and along with the new pump rebuild the injectors are going to be tested and if they are off they will be rebuilt . Could i do it , yes IF i had the tools should i buy the tools to do one set Nope . Why do you take and engine to a MACHINE SHOP ???? most don't know how and they do not have the machines , are you going to run out and buy a boring bar to bore four or six holes once or twice ?? ya going to run out and buy and valve grinding set and a head surfacer to do a couple heads of a test bench to check for leaks?? Now here again if someone wanted to DONATE i would set up a shop . So instead i take the machine work to the man that does this each day and has good equipment and knows his job.

Your point is well taken. I don't know what a 2504D looks like or what kind of pump it has, but the guy seemed like he knew what he was doing (he may have the equipment you mention) so I told him where to get it. I used to have pumps professionally done (and still do) as you say, but I was driven to open my first Stanadyne in the 80's due to a group of P.I.A. rebuilders in N.E. Ohio. When the I.H. 6.9L came out, they were good runners. The injector pumps were terrible. They were so bad and were replaced so often that the price got down as low as $242. New. From International. Well, that party ended after a while and pretty soon the only good deal you could get was from a rebuilder, and by that time the price for a rebuild was back up around $500. The thing that ticked me off was, now they won't even take the top cover off for less than $500. You know, it was all or nothing, claiming the fuel would contaminate their test stand (whatever), the unit had to be completely broken down and inspected. The trouble I was having with this particular pump was that it wouldn't shut off. They began yapping about excessive clearance in the metering valve, having to replace the hydraulic head... that's when I left. I went home, took the top off, didn't find anything wrong, put the top back on, it was cured. Just some little quirk in that linkage, about once a year when it wouldn't shut off, you take the top off and jiggle the linkage, and it was fine. Another time, had another 6.9L pump built,(different truck) this time shopping for warranty instead of price. I was promised a year. Drive the truck for an hour, shut it off and it wouldn't start again until it was stone cold. Rebuilder said the gear train was worn out (at 33,000?) and to advance the timing "a little bit". At the end of 5 days (one month before the warranty was up) it wouldn't start at all, hot or cold. Took the top off the pump and found a broken solder joint on the ESO coil. Called rebuilder, said he would only warranty the pump if I took it off and brought it to him. So you see, there's 2 pumps I had to fix myself because fuel shops tried to B.S. me. As for major repairs, a Roosa/Stanadyne can be done at home in many cases. For one thing, when a new hydraulic head is ordered, it comes in a plastic cup, properly adjusted. Any adjustments that must be disturbed during disassembly, I make little gauge blocks for, so I can put it back together as it was. Will my pumps pass California emissions? Probably not. Was I lucky? Probably so. If it has plenty of power, doesn't smoke white at idle, or smoke black at high idle, I got what I wanted.

And just who might the PIA's in N.E. Ohio be. You would not slander the name of Of the one on market street in Youngstown now would you or the one over in Akron by any chance . Learned about The one in Youngstown 40 plus years ago and the one in Akron 20 years ago. I have one guy i trust and he is in New Castle Pa. since old Cal at Rish Equipment is long gone .

No, not that far east. Let's just say I have been happy with Fluid Mechanics in Cleveland, although lately they've been sending stuff down to the guy I dislike, as Fluid Mechanics' main income is really big stuff for ore boats. I'm presently with Northwest Fuel Injection, they are very good, no games, and they know what a D-236 is as well as a Cat D-3400.