IH 674 D239 Engine replacement

ClarkR

Member
I have a IH 674 with the diesel 239 engine. The tractor developed blow by that finally got to the point that I parked it before doing more damage. I suspect a broken ring. I'm in North Florida and haven't found anyone that gives me the confidence to get them to repair and/or rebuild. I ran into someone that has some history on the tractor over the holidays. He said at one point it was getting diesel in the oil and was ran that way until discovered. Not sure if that's what led to my problem. I decided to put some feelers out for rebuilt or used motor. I found a D-239 out of a IH 695 with a one-year warranty. It's supposed to hold 55lbs of oil pressure when idling. It's $3K complete with manifold, injectors, water pump, etc., plus $750 core till they get my motor back. $250 is the shipping estimate one way. I also found a D246 that's still in a Hydro 84. It it supposed to hold 60lbs at idle. It's also $3K with a $1K core. Shipping is estimated at $300 one way. It also comes complete with injectors, water pump, manifold, etc. and a one-year warranty. Will the 246 bolt up to a 674? Other problems on fan clearance etc.? What are your thoughts? Thanks
 
For the prices you quoted,I would keep looking for someone to rebuild.Thats a long way to ship a used engine.Or do it yourself.Inframeing is not hard.LOTS of folks here would be more than happy to help....
 
My preference is to get mine rebuilt, just having problems finding someone interested and competent on these engines. I had one "shop" say they wouldn't touch it for less that $2500. I don't know how to rebuild the engine, especially not a diesel. I would be a good helper to someone with knowledge, but don't have the knowledge myself. I've replaced starters, alternators, water pumps, radiators, hydraulic pumps, wheel bearings, etc., but never rebuilt the inside of one.
 
You have the skills.Rebuilding a "diesel" is no different than a gas.rings,pistons,bearings,valves,timing....Buy a book,ask us lots of questions,find a buddy to help.Dont let the fact that it is a 'diesel' scare/intimidate you.You CAN do it!!
 
If it starts and runs, I really doubt that there is anything at all wrong with your engine.

Take it out and work the livin' snot out of it for half a day and I'll bet that "blowby" business clears right up.

Diesels just don't like to run anything less than full bore, full tilt, heavy load.

I have a German 310 that was doing the same exact thing as yours when I got it. Two days on a 14' disc stopped all the issues and I have not noticed any excessive blowby in 7 or 8 years now.

Allan
 
well if you say it has ben run with diesel in the oil then thats a very good reson for the blowby. the diesel glazes the cyl. walls and the tractor will use a lot of oil. the most likely cause would be the injection pump shaft seal leaking diesel into oil pan.
pull the head off first and check things out. may only need a set of rings and deglaze cyl's. best is to check this engine out first before getting involved with another one. you may get away a lot cheaper.
 
yes, definitly do as allan says, before tearing down. i had a tractor with diesel in oil and also worked the heck out of it but it would not smarten up so i had to tear it down. but thats a last option. all it took was a set of rings and deglazing.
 
I've worked it pretty hard and it got worse rather than better. It will blow out/burn probably a quart or two of 15W40 or 20W50 in less than an hour of running.
 
Clark
Is there a local tractor club in your area. Those members are usually a great resource for local shops/mechanics/parts that can do a good job for you. I know my club members have been a good source of info as well as those on this site
Just a thought
Tracy
 
Thanks. The nearest IH/Farmall club is about 5 hours south. I did contact them, but no luck on finding a rebuilder.
 
the stuff was called bon-amy. when rings would not seat or glazed walls would sniff in a couple tablespoons of that stuff at carb intake. but the biggest thing need to run it hot as possible even cover rad as required when working it.
 
Clark in febuary at the Flywheelers they will be featuring IH so I would drive down there and check around. You can probely find someone to rebuild yours.

Bob
 
I am in the middle of rebuilding a D-239 out of a 1972 IH574. It will cost me about $1,200 to do an in tractor rebuild with new liners, pistons, and gaskets. That price includes the rebuild of the head and injectors. The rebuild kite will come with some parts that the shops will need to rebuild the head and injectors. It should take you about 20 man hours.
 
Eric,
Saw that you are rebuilding a D-239. I have an IH544 with D-239. Just found water in the oil. (had a water leak and it might have overheated?)
I want to do a rebuild, but don't have any experience rebuilding a diesel.
Any advise you can share would be appreciated.
Where did you buy your parts?
Which rebuild kit did you purchase?
Any problems/issues with tear down?
Did you need any specialty tools?

Thanks,

JD
Merced, CA
 
JD

Just to reiterate when I started my rebuild I was looking for the glow plugs, I did not know that there was nothing but compression to run this diesel.

You will need a tq wrench, piston ring compressor, and piston ring pliers, but nothing that you would not need for any rebuild.

Sorry to hear that, one of the first things I would do is send the head off to be checked make sure that it is not cracked or to short to be a resurfaced.

I got the kit from a local dealer, but you can find them on line, at

http://www.yesterdaystractors.com/cgi-bin/store/model_parts.cgi?SearchArea=Farmall&md=544&cat=kits

or

http://www.madisontractor.com/ik239-in-frame-overhaul-rebuild-kit.html

Check, http://www.link_disallowed/ they are a great help too.

You will need to figure out if you are going to do an "In Tractor" or "Out of Tractor" Rebuild.

I recommend that if you can split the tractor and put it on a stand to do it. If it got hot you should take the crank out and get it checked and the only way to do that is to split the tractor. If you don"t split it then you will not be able to change the last rear crank bearing or seal.

When you take the engine balancer out mark it first! Or you will have to re-tine it. A good way to do that is to pit the #1 cylinder on TDC and mark the two gears on the balencer, you can mark the crank but if you get it turned then the marks come off.

Before you get a kit you will need to know if the crank is under sized, your shop will be able to tell you. If you don"t turn your you will still need to get the size off the piston bearings.

It is fairly simple, I got the manual off Amazon for $24, it cover several tractor series but has the information needed for the rebuild, if you have the money you can find an engine specific manual which from what I hear is much better. but the I got was fine.

Yesterdays Tractors has a kit that includes the valves and other stuff to rebuild the head, if your machine shop will use those parts that may save you some money.

This is a great source for parts diagrams but they are expensive compared to others, www.external_link

Hope this helps, if you need anything just drop me a line at [email protected] I may only be able to offer moral support but I will do what I can.
 

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