won't start

1954 SC - rebuilt the engine. It was running when I parked it. I had the head checked at local engine machine shop, all o.k. they put new guides in, nothing else. I installed new rings & bearings, nothing else, now it won't start. Not getting gas at the carb. when turning over there is a "tink-tink" noise coming from exhaust. Timing is perfect. Haven't tested compression but it appears to be o.k. Any thoughts?
 
first thing is ... no such thing as putting valve guides in and nothing else. if thats true what you say then there's a problem right there.valves and seats HAVE TO be ground after guide installation. also are the valves set?
rings and brgs and nothing else? did the cyl's get deglazed? what about ring groove? was it removed? also HAVE TO check compression when in dought. no gas to carb means to check from the tank to carb for line plugs.
this is a few ideas with the little info.
 
Gotta have gas at the carb before anything will run. On the tink, tink issue I would double check the valve clearances.
 
I have gas to the carb but doesn't draw on it's own.
Valves have been set. Cylinder walls were deglazed and the grooves in pistons were all cleaned before new rings installed. The guy at the machine shop said the valves all looked good and there were no cracks so he only replaced the guides???
 
If you do not draw at the carb, then it is an intake leak, compression, valve timing or valve clearance issue.

I would bet valve timing or clearance if you are hearing noises in exhaust.

Check the clearances again.
 
Fuel is a gotta do thing. Fuel in the tank? fuel valve on? Strainer in carb inlet clean?
float stuck?
That should get fuel if looked into.
Before going into the fuel and trying to start it, there are basic and important realities that need attention. There is a ridge that is formed where the top ring stops moving on the way up. That ridge is almost always big enough to break a new ring that is placed in contact with the ridge. Standard procedure is to machine that ridge out of the cylinder, then hone the bore and then put in new rings (they will make their own new ridge as the tractor is operated for 7000 hours).
If the ridge was ignored that "tink" sound is desperate (or broken) rings.
As noted below, there is no way to provide a reasonable valve seal with new guides and no re-seating of the valves to the seats. They never line up and maybe 3 of 8 would be functional.
Cold setting of the valve lash is also not mentioned in your post. With the changes made, the lash will certainly be way off.
Tell us more, we want to see this thing run and run well. Jim
 
Looking good is nice to have in a casual girl friend. A serious relationship needs to go beyond looks --- to performance! Jim
 
that dont even make sense. once valve guides are worn the valves "walk around" the seats and get them pounded out and the seats become widened.seat width is like 1/8" and guaranteed with worn guides they will be wider. this is the very first time i have even heard of this operation. i think if the valves were good as he says then the guides were good also. i think maybe he told you that and charged for that cause he wanted a little extra cash, but why not do the job right the first time. some thing here is not computing.
have to know for sure whats going on and not thinks so or presume. need to do a compresion check on this and give the results.
 
you have a way with words jim,that seams so fitting to the occation that i get a kick out of. and i struggle to find right words.
 
> I have gas to the carb but doesn"t draw on it"s own.

Does it develop vacuum? Pull the hose off the carb inlet and put your hand over it while cranking. You should feel it suck.
 
With the air cleaner hose off try to start it but as you do hold your hand over the carb air intake. You should both feel a good suction there and also when you remove your hand it should be covered with gas. If you do not have both then your compression is to low as in no suction or if no gas your carb is clogged some place. Note if you do that it also might try to start. If low suction put say a table spoon of ATF/gas mix in each cylinder and try to start it. The ATF/gas mix 50/50 will up compression and also burn like gas and may end your problems
 
Do a compression test and post the readings. Set your valves at .017" cold. Nothing else means you should've installed a new sleeve kit
that included new pistons and rings. That ting you hear is probably a piston ring hitting the ridge in your old sleeves. Hal
 

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