584 auxiliary valve

warrenWoodrow · Dec 25, 2012

I do not use the rear hydraulics and valve body seems to be leaking. I capped two ports going to rear hydraulics . Can I cap the inlet as well and just eliminate the the leak without cvausing any harm to system. Also, if there is a hydraulic leak anywhere in a system does it stand to reason that air may also get into system at that point. Obviously I know verey little about hydraulics.

JimB2 · Dec 25, 2012

Hi Warren, it should be possible to remove the remote valve and bolt the end cover plate to the hydraulic housing. The only problem is the return line (L shaped line) that comes out of the top of the cover plate that goes to the draft control probably will no longer fit. The steel return line can be replaced with a flexible hydraulic hose. If tractor has a front end loader the return line may have been replaced with loader connections.

JimB

Jim Naden · Dec 25, 2012

No you cannot cap off the oil supply to the remote valve. You would cause the system to stay on high pressure and overheat the system.

warrenWoodrow · Dec 25, 2012

Thanks for the replies. I am going to investigate the connections to the valve more tomorrow. I assume plugging the outlets caused no harm as they were connected to two metal lines which attached to two unused flexible quick connect lines.

JimB2 · Dec 26, 2012

Warren, you are correct, plugging outlets to quick couplers will cause no problems. The 584 has an "open center" hydraulic system which means that the hydraulic oil is circulating in a loop and only gets diverted to a cylinder when a valve is opened.
Therefore it is VERY important to have that "L" shaped return line connected to complete the loop.
If the loop is not complete, the only place for the oil to go is through the relief valve which is NOT good. This will happen if you pull the remote hydraulic lever, you will hear the relief valve buzz and the engine come under load.

JimB

warrenWoodrow · Dec 26, 2012

Thanks a million. I got it going today but front end loader is jerking / hesitating. I checked the filter and it was clean but I have an excessive amount of air in the system as evidenced by air bubbles in fluid. I have worked all cylinders through complete cycle/range of motion but still air and hiccup. Do you have any ideas and is there a better way to get air out.

Jim Naden · Dec 26, 2012

(quoted from post at 14:21:43 12/26/12) Thanks a million. I got it going today but front end loader is jerking / hesitating. I checked the filter and it was clean but I have an excessive amount of air in the system as evidenced by air bubbles in fluid. I have worked all cylinders through complete cycle/range of motion but still air and hiccup. Do you have any ideas and is there a better way to get air out.

Does the steering act aerated also?

Is the system aerated as soon as you start the tractor or does it aerate after running a while?

Jim N.

Anonymous-0 · Dec 26, 2012

Steering is only thing NOT acting up . Yes , acts aerated upon start up.My loader did a LITTLE better today after I tightened filter bolt but it is still not right . It is slow and has hiccup. It will pick up a hay bale .

Anonymous-0 · Dec 26, 2012

The level check acts strange also.I put 9 gallons in and checked and it seemed to be at right level on stick . Now I crank and run for 3 minutes and shut off as manual says ans sometimes it will not mark the dipstick [ I guess this has something to do with air. I have unscrewed and check breather and it is clear .

Anonymous-0 · Dec 27, 2012

One more thing- I had changed the filter and checked the screen and noticed a tiny drip when I turned off the tractor. I took off and reinstalled filter and made leak stop. I suppose I may have been drawing air . I noticed when I bought new filter that there were two o-rings in package. My old filter only used one on the bolt in a groove. I checked the drawings on internet and they only show the one o-ring also. I did of course use the new gasket.

Jim Naden · Dec 27, 2012

(quoted from post at 21:54:33 12/26/12) The level check acts strange also.I put 9 gallons in and checked and it seemed to be at right level on stick . Now I crank and run for 3 minutes and shut off as manual says ans sometimes it will not mark the dipstick [ I guess this has something to do with air. I have unscrewed and check breather and it is clear .

The dipstick tube isn't vented well. Always pull the dipstick, wipe and recheck. This lets the true oil level come up in the dipstick tube to get an accurate level reading.

JimB2 · Dec 27, 2012

Hi warren, I always check hydraulic fluid with engine running at low idle and tractor level. Reason there are different chambers in the trans/diff and it relies on the lube pump to pump oil from one chamber to the next.

Does not hurt to over fill by 5 gals especially with a loader on the tractor.

JimB

Anonymous-0 · Dec 27, 2012

Thanks . I went and looked today and found I still have a tiny leak from filter canister as it had dripped a small amount on ground overnight. I am hoping I will solve my aeration problem if I can ever get the canister to seal correctly to the gasket. Tried not tightening too tight , then tried tightening a little more[got some better] hate to tighten more so I may pull it off and try again. Those darn things should be easy as the canister is in the groove . Thanks for all the input . This has been a long haul for a guy like myself with little time . Started out just changing the o-ring on pto idler shaft but when I pulled it out needle bearings went everywhere due to ends of caged needle bearing having worn off . 10 minute project is now 3 weeks later but almost done after having to pull lift cover and......... on and on.

584 auxiliary valve

warrenWoodrow

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JimB2

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Jim Naden

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warrenWoodrow

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JimB2

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warrenWoodrow

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Jim Naden

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Anonymous-0

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Jim Naden

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JimB2

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