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Farmall & IHC Tractors Discussion Forum
Show Parts for Model:

Re: Super M locking in !st and 3rd

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2tractorlarry

12-03-2012 18:43:08
184.8.184.118



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!st, thanks guys for responding to my post. This is my first time participating on a blog. It was definitely locked. If I let the clutch out in 1st, reverse, or neutral, the engine stalled. But I was able to drive in all the other gears...I tried them all. I removed the shifter as advised, and the neutral slots (if that"s what they are called) were not perfectly aligned, but not really in any gear. I slid the rails back and forth just to see how far they moved because I"ve never been into any transmission before. Then I realigned them to neutral, put the shifter back in and it worked fine.
I did note that there was some wear on the center rail (2nd & 3rd?)
and also the end of the shifter has been previously built up with a pretty lousy weld, and is showing signs of wearing again. I have a welder and can do some build up, but how do you know how much to add, or grind back off?

On a side note, There was some discussion in older posts regarding the mounting of the shifter on the Super M. Someone suggested that there was a 3 bolt shift tower that was easier to remove than the pin and gave better access. Someone else said that the Super M"s didn"t have that 3 bolt tower,that it was cast in to the top plate. I don"t know what year my super M is (Serial# F-7725 GJ) but it has the removable tower.

Re: the wheel shucking being from loose clamps, wouldn"t there be scraping signs on the wheels by the clamps? I looked for that and do not see any.

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Janicholson

12-03-2012 20:23:06
96.24.99.126



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 Re: Super M locking in !st and 3rd in reply to 2tractorlarry, 12-03-2012 18:43:08  

The pic shows the sizes. from the views you show your slots might allow a slightly larger dimension on the .750 number, possibly .760" to .765" if put into the slots and can work through neutral, I would do it. I found the pic from Neblink, but I don't know who took it.
The trans looks a bit rusty. as such the detent balls and springs can rust, stick, or fail. Using a space heater to warm the trans for a day or two (safely!!!!!) might reduce the moisture, Changing the fluid might be a good idea as well. 85W140 gl4 or gl5 is fine. 85-90 is also good.
The loose rim on the clamps do not often reveal obvious problems. They also often need to be loosened, lubed, and retightened due to stuck threads. Jim

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