Carb problems still....

Seth Roemer · Dec 3, 2012

Ok.. I have the h that floods and wont start. I tried seating the float needle, I cleaned it again as well. Put on the tractor turned the gas on and let it set for a hour. Tried to start it and gas runs out the bottom. Now what???

Hayfarmer · Dec 3, 2012

is the float floating ok? sometimes it can hang up on the part of the carb that it fits around.

MisterT · Dec 3, 2012

(quoted from post at 02:29:57 12/04/12) Ok.. I have the h that floods and wont start. I tried seating the float needle, I cleaned it again as well. Put on the tractor turned the gas on and let it set for a hour. Tried to start it and gas runs out the bottom. Now what???

Was gas running out BEFORE you tried to start it? Did you CHOKE it? If you choked it, right there is your problem. Farmall Hs do not LIKE to be choked, and in most cases it is necessary to use that choke only AFTER the engine is running and then probably no more than about 1/2 choke. Just enough to keep it running.

Oh, and for what it's worth, "seating" that needle valve just might require you to buy a new needle and seat. "Seating" is not needed, and should NEVER be done.

pete 23 · Dec 3, 2012

If it did not leak while it was sitting before you tried to start it, the needle and seat is not the problem. Like poster said, choking the engine will cause fuel to run out of bottom if it does not start. With an updraft carburetor not all the fuel is drawn up into engine at low cranking speeds so if it does not start the gasoline collects in the inlet and leaks out drip hole. I have to disagree on seating the needle though. It may or may not be necessary. If it is a worn out one with a groove a good seating job may get you by for a while. If it is a new needle and seat, well, a whole lot of them are poorly made and the hole is not round so they need to be thrown away or seated to work. Some like to seat the viton tipped needle, I don't. Isn't it great. Almost as many opinions as a medical team has when diagnosing your health.

blunted · Dec 3, 2012

i had that problem on my a and c . bent the flots down some, so more presure was on the seat. that mite help.

BOB HAWBECKER · Dec 3, 2012

can i ask why you put it back on tractor after i showed you the pictures?
bench testing is alot better than on tractor
i am not going to give all my advice away
you guys trying to set float heights my the book (measurement) is ok to get it right on is to clear tube test. now your going to say what is that!well here is some pictures of set-up,do you see the fuel level in the tube is the real deal.
i hope this helps some one out.

David G · Dec 3, 2012

Pete23 is onto it, and my H likes a quick choke when it is cold.

blunted · Dec 3, 2012

WOW looks like that sould be on a race car

FBH44 · Dec 4, 2012

Somebody here recommended a Dremel tool to smooth out the inside of the float chamber and stop sticking. Seems like a good idea.

davediehl@hotmail.com · Dec 4, 2012

I had the same problem of the leaking fuel in my H when I first bought it. The previous owner had the carb rebuilt and didn't even have it back on the tractor when I looked at it. I read on here that there was a bad needle type and a good needle type. Seems if I remember right, the black needle was inferior and the red one was good. I found the preferred type at the local Tractor Supply in a kit. After installing it and the seat, I never had another problem. Double check the float level with the included gauge while your in there.

jim_uny · Dec 4, 2012

with carb off gently blow in gas intake tube and make sure viton tip seals. also make sure float is not rubbing against sides. also adjust float from tang not bending tabs. this affects rubbing. start with new float if necesseary

mkirsch · Dec 4, 2012

Float is not the problem here. It's dripping gas AFTER he tries to start it.

Make sure you've got spark, then try starting without the choke. All it should need is a quick blip of choke after it fires, to keep it running.

Allan from PA · Dec 4, 2012

I had a similar problem with a Zenith carb off a Case SC. Bought a rebuild kit and put it in, no difference. I must have taken that carb off a half dozen times trying to figure out what was wrong. I finally noticed that the new needle for the float was shorter that came in the kit, don't know why. I put the carb together with all the components of the new kit except used the OLD float needle and the carb worked perfect, still does. No more flooding and gas everywhere. Just letting you know what my experience was. Good luck and let us know what you find, Allan.

CNKS · Dec 4, 2012

What pete 23 says. I bet I can make any Farmall gas tractor letter series through the 560 drip out of the carburater simply by choking it too much. If it does that it is very hard to start until all that gas dissapears. As to the needle seating, there will be no problems if you pay the money to get the needle and seat from CaseIH. Others can disagree, but I have had no problems with CaseIH parts. I have 7 Farmall tractors, all start with minimum choke, all drip with excess choke, none drip with the fuel left on for say a day. Since they do get little use I do shut off the fuel when not in use.

Carb problems still....

Seth Roemer

New User

Hayfarmer

Well-known Member

MisterT

Member

pete 23

Well-known Member

blunted

Member

BOB HAWBECKER

Member

David G

Well-known Member

blunted

Member

FBH44

Well-known Member

[email protected]

Well-known Member

jim_uny

Member

mkirsch

Well-known Member

Allan from PA

Member

CNKS

Well-known Member

Similar threads