Lucid

Member
Was using the disk on some previously plowed ground. Did a little bit in first, then started in 2nd. A loud pop happened soon after on the left side of the tractor. Scared the snot out of me! Made my left ear ring too. Think I even saw a quick flash similar to a firecracker going off.

Nothing seemed leaking, so I continued on for another hour. Finished up, pulled on hard ground, and shifted into 4th gear (road gear). Tractor wouldn't go, acted like it while it was jerking forward, then died. Started tractor and it backfired again.

What is going on with my Farmall 200?
 
lean fuel mixture can cause backfire-ing, also, ignition and valve issues. first stop would be a compression test to see if all the cylinders are within 10 percent compression. then check fuel delivery, then check distributor, possibly worn bushings causing point gap to vary. could be a cracked cap or moisture in the distributor too.
 
Most likely not getting enough gas through the carb.

Sometimes they'll starve when you push them to work harder.

You can try richening it up a bit to see if that helps. It probably will.

If not - I'd give the carb a good cleaning and be sure you're getting good gas flow to the carb.
 
Just finished the compression test. #1 I redid a few times as I wasn't sure if I was fully seated or not. From #1-#4; 8, 45, 60, & 70. Also checked the distributor and the cap had some oil in it. I cleaned it out with a shop rag. Not looking good..
 
(quoted from post at 12:09:40 11/26/12) 8?
The first try the gauge didnt even move. Unscrewed the gauge and retried it. It moved almost to the first bar on the gauge, 3rd go round was about the same. :/ Possible the #1 piston is stuck?

After I did my work, I was going to change the oil. And drop the pan to clean the oil pump etc. Then adjust the valves.
 
Im not sure how a piston could be stuck and have it run.
In my opinion, you should adjust the valves. You might be amazed at what that would do. If you have never done it, then its a good time to start.
I did mine with a .020" shim cold. Hot was .014" I think.
Its easy.
If you dont know how to adjust them, ask and I will give you step by step.

After you adjust, leave the valve cover off and run it. You(or at least I can) can tell if there is something out of order such as a valve not closing properly.
 
I'll bet if you post a video of the tractor running, it doesn't sound good. That #1 cylinder can't possibly be firing, and #2 isn't firing much. #3 and #4 are barely adequate to fire. In fact I'm surprised you can get the tractor to start without towing it and spinning the bejeezus out of the engine.

Your tractor must sound like an old 2-cylinder JD, pop-pop, pop-pop. It's supposed to sound like a sewing machine, nice and smooth.

On a 200, you can SEE the pistons reach TDC from the spark plug holes. Shine a light down in there and see if #1 is moving up and down.

Definitely going to have to dig into the engine to find what's wrong.
 
I am wanting to do an overhaul, now looks sooner than later. The plug conditions are; (1-4) carbon/sooty, light grey/tan soot, oily, & clean.
 
(quoted from post at 01:20:32 11/27/12) Pull the valve cover, sounds like a push rod jumped off the rocker.

No matter what, looks like you gotta get that valve cover off and take a look. Then adjust valves.
 

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