John T and others..... Thanks for the help

Baelee05

Member
Thanks to everyone who chimed in with advice for my genny and VR problems with the old forklift and M this past week. The problem with the M was twofold. First, I had it wired incorrectly and second, the VR was set improperly from the shop I got it from. Basically both the forklift and M problems were caused by improperly set VRs from my gen shop. These guys are usually really good but they kind of let me down on these two things. Oh well. Just glad to have both issue resolved. Now onto other things! The clutch on this old M hasn"t been right since I got it so I think I am going to see about fabbing up some spilt stands and put a clutch and a rear engine seal in the old girl. It will be my first split see we will see how that goes!
 
Thanks, Good luck with the split. Making the stands so that their point of contact with the floor is at least 36 inches apart assists in keeping things upright. (important) allowing each side to have an inch of up down adjustability is also desirable. Jim
 
Um, not an expert in this area by any means, but I'm not at all sure you need a split to replace a clutch on an M. Super M, however, a different story I believe.
 
Thank You. I am considering using someone else's idea for mounting trailer jacks to the side rails for jack stands. I thought I would then mount some outriggers of some kind further foward to assist in keeping the thing from tipping. Going to take some time and think about it before doing anything.
 
The pressure plate and disk are replaceable without splitting. The geometry is a little tight, but very doable. Jim
 
I had heard about the non-split/urban legend. How do you replace the clutch/pp without splitting? Thanks, Jon
 
(quoted from post at 23:11:44 11/10/12) I had heard about the non-split/urban legend. How do you replace the clutch/pp without splitting? Thanks, Jon

About the only thing that may be a bit out of the ordinary in replacing the M clutch without splitting the tractor is that you remove every other PPA mounting blot and install them back into the pressure plate to compress the springs. Other than that it is a matter of removing the LiftAll pump, disconnecting and removing the drive shaft coupler,release the clutch pedal return spring, and remove the two bolts that hold the release bearing pilot tube to the clutch housing. At that point you can usually remove the drive shaft from the clutch disk. Some times you have to remove the other three bolts from the PPA to be able to slide the shaft out. Once the shaft is out the PPA and disk will come out.
 
Thanks Owen. This one needs a rear seal too so I am going to go ahead and split it. This will also give me the experience of splitting one and allow me to get a better idea of how to do a clutch removal in the future without splitting.
 

We sell tractor parts! We have the parts you need to repair your tractor - the right parts. Our low prices and years of research make us your best choice when you need parts. Shop Online Today.

Back
Top