A cheap low quality ohm meter may not be very accurate at low ohms reading like say 1.5 to 2 ohms which a typical ballast resistor is.
If you unhook the wires to it and measure the ballast resistor resistance, Id expect maybe 1.25 to under 2 ohms, if its open (infinite resistance no continuity) its obviously baddddddddd.
With all hooked up like normal with the ignition ON if you place a DC volt meter ACROSS the ballast and if the poitns are good and closed and all is working, Id expect around a 6 volt drop.
If (all ON and working and points good and closed) you place the meter with Neg to frame case ground and the positive to the coils input (NOT to distributor) Id expect 6 volts (cuz the ballast if good and conducting current drops 12 battery volts down to 6).
If you put the meters Pos on the coils output (TO distributor) Id expect 12 volts when points open but 0 volts when closed.
SHES NEVER GONNA PRODUCE A SPARK UNTIL YOU HAVE VOLTAGE ON THE COILS INPUT (NOT to distributor) with the ignition ON and that means a good and conductive ballast resistor after the ignition and bepore and ahead of the coils input.
I suspect an open or burned circuit somewhere in the Ignition primary (switch, ballast, coil, points) GET YOUR METER OUT N GO TO WORK
Run my Troubleshooting procedure