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Re: Rust stuck M farmall

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11-05-2012 17:07:06

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Water will not work, beleive me !!! Pull the plugs & squirt straight kerosene into the cylinder with an oil can, squirt about half the oil can in each cylinder, screw the plugs back in & wait a week. Every Wednesday morning squirt two to three squirts in each plug hole &screw the plug back in. Every Saturday chock up the front wheels, jack up one rear wheel, put the tranny in first and rock the tire back & forth five to six inches. DO NOT force it, expensive things will break !!!!
If no movement put the tranny in neutral then pull the starter & use a large screw driver or prybar on the flywheel teeth try to move it up, five or six teeth then try to move it down five to six teeth. DO NOT force it !!!
If no movement, squirt some more kerosene in the cylinders, replace the plugs & wait til wednesday. If no movement after two to three months of repeating this every Wednesday & Saturday, it's time to pull the oil pan & valve cover. If it is stuck rings, rods, valves or pistonsno one knows until you tear it down. The above will work if the sticking problem is minor, from just sitting under an enclosed roof, if it has been sitting outside for very long even with the exhaust covered it is usually rusted bad enough on the inside to warrant an overhaul. There are exceptions to this rule, but not in my experience.
Rust is not the only thing that will stick an engine, stuck or dropped valves, broken cam or crank teeth behind the front cover. I have even seen the clutch rusted to flywheel in conjuction with a rusted (frozen) brake lining, so it's always best to keep the tranny in neutral when trying to free up the engine.

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11-05-2012 17:30:42

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 Re: Rust stuck M farmall in reply to rhtx55, 11-05-2012 17:07:06  
Use high gear not low when rocking it.

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