procaptainbob
New User
Cub won't start w/ stater and will hand crank. Bought new battery and replacement starter. cranks too slow and seems to run battery down in a couple tries. any idea on cause?
- Thread starter procaptainbob
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Denny ('60 Lo-Boy)
Member
Clean up all your battery connections and grounds. Many times battery cabling gets replaced by too small 12 volt sized cables. Six volt systems require larger cables and good connections to transfer the power.
procaptainbob
New User
it is a 6v + ground w/ distributor. will double check connections but i read good voltage at starter frame to - post on starter and I added a jumper cable from + battery to frame w/ no change.
teddy52food
Well-known Member
What does the voltage drop down to when using the starter?
procaptainbob
New User
After cleaning cable connecters still no start. While trying the voltage drops to as low as 5.3. the cub wont even start with the hand crank below about 6.3. Is it possable that something internally is dragging down the starter and still allowing me to hand crank a start?
procaptainbob
New User
does that mean the reconditioned starter I just bought needs to be replaced? Or since the previous starter was doing the same thing that the problem is elsewhere? if so where?
You don't need 00 cables for a Cub. 2ga is plenty. 0 is definitely wasted money. It doesn't crank over that hard.
00 is needed for an M because you're trying to crank over 4 times as much engine with the same battery and same starter motor.
ALL connections need to be cleaned. If the cables have those temporary clamp-on replacement ends, they need to be taken apart and cleaned too. Cut and strip fresh cable to clamp in the end. Better yet, replace the whole cable with one that has soldered & crimped ends.
How long are your tries? I know sometimes people will consider a "try" 3 minutes of continuous cranking...
No more than 30 seconds of cranking per try. Frankly if you crank more than 5 seconds with no start, STOP CRANKING. It's not going to start.
00 is needed for an M because you're trying to crank over 4 times as much engine with the same battery and same starter motor.
ALL connections need to be cleaned. If the cables have those temporary clamp-on replacement ends, they need to be taken apart and cleaned too. Cut and strip fresh cable to clamp in the end. Better yet, replace the whole cable with one that has soldered & crimped ends.
How long are your tries? I know sometimes people will consider a "try" 3 minutes of continuous cranking...
No more than 30 seconds of cranking per try. Frankly if you crank more than 5 seconds with no start, STOP CRANKING. It's not going to start.
Janicholson
Well-known Member
A starter draw meter is cheap. it is held to the battery cable, and read while cranking (be safe when off the tractor). The cub should draw less than 200 amps. If it tries to peg the needle, the starter motor is drawing way too much current. It could be an internal short to ground. As it is a rebuilt. Try it out on the ground with jumper cables. hold it down with serious foot pressure, as they react radically if working. A wrong drive pinion could cause gear conflict at the Ring gear, but not very likely. A bad battery will also make the same symptoms, but with poor performance on the (purchased) Starter Amp gauge. If that is a good battery, and good starter, the cub will spin easily. Jim
gene bender
Well-known Member
Time to pull the starter and rebuild before you ruin it completely. Just take it to a shop that does them as your C ub will start very quick with a good starter only a 60 cuin engine very easy for a good starter to turn over.
procaptainbob
New User
thanks I'll try the meter and ground test starter. this is the third starter and the last one finally quit after getting slower as I tried over the weeks to resolve. I am wondering if I have a problem with the bendix binding on the flywheel. Any ideas on how to find out if problem is is with the flywheel?
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