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%$#@ viton-tipped needle won't stop leaking

M

mkirsch

Well-known Member
I can't get the needle to stop leaking on my Super A.

It's a new needle and seat, along with a new float (old one was smashed and leaking).

Take the carb apart, clean it out, reset the float, check the float/needle action, put it back together, and the next morning: drip-drip-drip.

Take the carb apart, clean it out, reset the float (it hasn't changed, still correct 1-5/32"), check the float/needle action (still pushes the needle all the way up), put it back together, and the next morning: drip-drip-drip.

Take the carb apart (again), clean it out (clean as a whistle from before), reset the float (STILL hasn't changed), check the needle action (no difference from before), put it back together, and the next morning: drip-drip-drip...

What is the secret to making these %$#@ things work? It's all I can get. The kit was an A&I off Ebay. CaseIH dealer gave me the EXACT SAME KIT, only twice the price.
 
Try sanding the edges of the needle so it doesn't hang up on the side of the seat.
Is the float rubbing the side of the float bowl?
 
From an older thread on this very same subject I remember that the leak may be between the seat and the carburetor body, while the leak APPEARS to be a seat/needle problem.
Cannot speak from experience.
HTH, Hendrik
 
(quoted from post at 05:37:57 09/04/12) I can't get the needle to stop leaking on my Super A.

It's a new needle and seat, along with a new float (old one was smashed and leaking).

Take the carb apart, clean it out, reset the float, check the float/needle action, put it back together, and the next morning: drip-drip-drip.

Take the carb apart, clean it out, reset the float (it hasn't changed, still correct 1-5/32"), check the float/needle action (still pushes the needle all the way up), put it back together, and the next morning: drip-drip-drip.

Take the carb apart (again), clean it out (clean as a whistle from before), reset the float (STILL hasn't changed), check the needle action (no difference from before), put it back together, and the next morning: drip-drip-drip...

What is the secret to making these %$#@ things work? It's all I can get. The kit was an A&I off Ebay. CaseIH dealer gave me the EXACT SAME KIT, only twice the price.
Click to expand...

It ain't the needle and seat. That carburetor is cracked somewhere.
 
i buy my carburetor kits from napa. the chinese needle and seat from tisco or a+i always leak for me too. the napa ones don't. case nh is getting very good at buying junk replacement parts and charging oem prices.
 
Common with the rubber tip needles. 2 ways yo fix them. #1 time will do so and will put a set in the tip so it seals or you can do this. Open it up. Drop the needle in the seat then tap on it a few times with a small punch etc. Do not whale the crap out of it just a few light taps. Pull it back out and you should be able to see a ring on the tip, that is a set. Learned that from and old carb guy years ago but has is long since 6 foot under
 
As others have stated, probably not
needle and seat. When you had carb off,
did you pressure test needle? You can do
that by blowing in fuel inlet and see if
thatis the actual culprit. Sounds like u
have, as stated, a cracked body or
plugged vent. I use A&I carb parts and
have no trouble.
 
I have had trouble with a bent float dragging inside the float bowl.

Also did you put a gasket on between the carb body and the needle seat? Did that once and it leaked around the threads of the seat.
 
Can you see inside the air cleaner inlet of that
particular carburetor and get a look at the tip of
the nozzle. If it is coming out of the nozzle it
is indeed caused from fuel level too high and most
likely cause is the needle and seat. But, they can
leak around the gasket on the seat and cause this
also. I have got to the point that I use loctite
teflon sealer on all those to overcome that leak
from rough castings. I find most needles that
leak are due to the hole in seat not being true.
Some you can see with the naked eye that they are
oblong or have a poor seat. I use a suitable tool
to stake that seat. Nozzle pintle from like a 414
works great. I never tap on the viton tipped
needle because they just turn in there anyway in
use.
 
(quoted from post at 10:33:23 09/04/12) I have had trouble with a bent float dragging inside the float bowl.

Also did you put a gasket on between the carb body and the needle seat? Did that once and it leaked around the threads of the seat.
Click to expand...

So... Gasket, or no gasket?

There was a gasket on the old seat, and I used the new gasket that came with the kit.

I have no idea how to tell if the float is dragging.
 
You need the gasket on the seat an the seat has to be tight so as not to leak. As for the float moving the way I do it is this. Take the turn the carb right side up and then upside down a few times. Listen for the float to move and if it moves freely you can in fact hear it move
 
I have trouble with the float dragging against the side of the chamber. Not much room in there, and a slight touch along the side means a high fuel level, possible flooding. Ihave to be careful setting my floats, in the exact center of the chamber.
 
Were it mine I would shut off the fuel, then remove the bowl, then use a bit of duct tape to hold the float in the just at setting height (after drying the float and carb body some).
Then with a good non sparking light I would turn on the fuel and watch for leaks to start. Knowledge is priceless, supposition is baseless. Jim
 
If you want to try another route. I have a professionally built, restored , show condition carb, 90 day warantee, carb in a box looking for a home. And you can sell Old that core for 150 dollars. Or I will give you $40 dollars for it on this one.
Email is open.
 
I have more trouble with the seat gasket leaking not the needle.The machine work on the carb side isn't great and sometimes time and water takes a toll. I use a little permetex on the carb body( let it dry good).Seems to work for me.
 
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