How to remove an H steering wheel without damage

Zachary Hoyt · Aug 27, 2012

I have a lousy welded up steering wheel on the 300 and a nice steering wheel off an H I parted out. I can cut most of the way through the junk wheel and chisel it till it cracks but I am wondering if there is a way to get the H wheel off the shaft intact. I have thought about heat but I am not sure if it would damage the plastic like material. The nut comes off easily, but the wheel hub is rusted tight. Any advice will be much appreciated.
Zach

Wayne in MN · Aug 27, 2012

Heat on the wheel hub is not going to hurt anything. I have used an air hammer with a flat bottom punch to "encourage" it to come off. Heating the nut will help also.
When the nut begins to turn, rotate it both directions a little at a time. The fine threads can get damaged easily.

sflem849 · Aug 27, 2012

Can't you get a puller on there? I as going to try a puller on the 9, but haven't gotten around to it yet.

DeltaRed · Aug 27, 2012

heat the hub cherry red.Then douse it with cold water. Should come off with a little tapping.The sudden contraction will break the rust loose.Just be carful you dont get it too hot and melt the rubber...

jdp8402 · Aug 28, 2012

I spray with a good penetrating oil, then use a posi-lock wheel puller. They are a great investment. It helps to spray a couple different times over a day or two.

rustred · Aug 28, 2012

dont you have a gear puller, as thats the thing to use.

Nebraska Cowman · Aug 28, 2012

heat on the hub will never get anywhere near the covered rim. That's what I do. You start whacking away too much and the brittle rubber breaks.

sflem849 · Aug 28, 2012

(quoted from post at 04:16:13 08/28/12) heat on the hub will never get anywhere near the covered rim. That's what I do. You start whacking away too much and the brittle rubber breaks.

So you use a puller? or you only have to whack a little because you heat it?

mkirsch · Aug 28, 2012

If it's a stock H/M style wheel, the plastic is nowhere near the hub. No problem using heat on that.

There's also a cheap plastic replacement steering wheel that's all plastic down to the hub... Obviously heat is a problem on that one.

D Slater · Aug 28, 2012

Sometimes heat is needed even with a puller on real tough ones but with it there's a chance the spokes will loosen in the hub on a steering wheel removed for reuse. If you don't have a heavy puller that will close that small a split type heavy duty bearing remover used with a puller can work.

WOpp · Aug 28, 2012

If you are going to use a puller, which is what it takes, put something between the puller and the steering shaft or you will damage the shaft to the point where the nut will no longer fit. I learned that one the hard way on my SMTA.

the tractor vet · Aug 28, 2012

The way to get them off with out any damage it is the way i do it . Now granted i do have toys that a lot of you do not but i use a bearing splitter and my ten ton bearing puller and if needed and only if needed then a little heat , you DO NOT have to turn it cherry red to get it to come off ya just need to make it expand and 200 degrees will do that .Put ample force on the puller and hit the pulling screw with a ample size force inducer not a tack hammer . IF a NO JOY situation happens and you can not get anymore on the puller then it is time to bring out the big gun , hit it with a real HOT flame and heat fast and stand back . If needed have the impact ready to add more pulling force fast but take away the heat .

Nebraska Cowman · Aug 28, 2012

The 2nd option. I despise pullers and only use them
as a last resort. But that's just me.

John G. Hasler · Aug 28, 2012

Any suggestions for getting the wheel off a 544? I can"t use much heat because of the hydraulics. It"s drilled for a puller and I"ve had one on it cranked as tight as possible for weeks: no luck. I have gear pullers but none of them fit.

the tractor vet · Aug 28, 2012

The one from the factory was pre drilled and tapped with 1/4x28 thread. Sometimes ya got to chase the holes. But a normal steering wheel puller has worked for me . I just run them down as tight as my C P 745 will take them and a good solid hit from a 4 pounder they are off.

John G. Hasler · Aug 28, 2012

> The one from the factory was pre drilled and
> tapped with 1/4x28 thread. Sometimes ya got to
> chase the holes. But a normal steering wheel
> puller has worked for me .

Had one on there for several weeks, as tight as I could get it without breaking anything. Gave it a few whacks with the 4-pounder every day. Put various sorts of penetrating oil on it. No luck. I don"t wanty to cut it off because there is nothing really wrong with the wheel, but the seal is leaking.

the tractor vet · Aug 28, 2012

Well i do not know what to tell ya here i use grade 8 bolt and a snap on puller and like i said my C P 745 and i have never ran into one that would not come . and trust me i have lost count of the steering seals i have put in .

This one i would have to see .

Wardner · Aug 28, 2012

How about taking the shaft, steering wheel, and steering post bearing and pressing the assembly apart in a press. You would have to disconnect the u-joint and destroy the long rivet at the top of the post.

Dean Olson · Aug 28, 2012

I heat it up with a 3 jaw puller attached. I leave the nut on but backed off till it's flush with the shaft. Put a piece of bar stock on that and crank it tight while applying heat. I've done 4 with that technique and no damage.

Practice on the junk wheel 1st.

David G · Aug 28, 2012

I had to do that exact thing on the steering wheel for my MH 44, it went pretty quick with the grinder and cutoff wheel.

How to remove an H steering wheel without damage

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