Racing H: Update on the Update

Anonymous-0 · Jul 15, 2012

First of all, thanks for all replies. I just finished doing what everyone suggested: Took off carb fuel bowl and checked throttle plate; not loose and closes with no binding; checked tang on throttle shaft; it is connected to carb and works freely; Adjusted equalzer on bellcrank so that throttle plate would close;all good; checked with disconnected linkage; couldn't see and problems;
checked movement of entire linkage with throttle handle; seems to work fine. Started tractor with throttle handle closed (and also throttle plate)
tractor raced so shut down immediaely. Where do I go from here: Governor lever seems to have "spring " in it, altho not strong. how can tractor run so fast with closed throttle plate unless governor is doing something right after starting. Appreciate any advice.

The Red · Jul 15, 2012

Have you adjusted the bolts/nuts on the governor lever? They do get loose. Did you replace the governor spring?

Anonymous-0 · Jul 15, 2012

Thanks Red. No, I haven't even had the gov cover plate off. One additional thing: when I was trying out the throttle linkage, i found that there is no resistance when putting in wide open position. Does that indicate a weak spring?

The Red · Jul 15, 2012

More than likely yes. I think I have replaced that in every single Farmall H and M I have worked on through the years. The 1951 H I rebuilt in 1999 (article is on this site) took off like a scared jack rabbit when I started it after the rebuild. Got broke in real quick!!

rustred · Jul 15, 2012

you need to remove the cover with the 2 screws on the governor and hold the rod it in the closed position while someone starts the tractor. i appears as soon as the tractor starts the governor is wide open.

Anonymous-0 · Jul 15, 2012

Thanks again. I just took off the governor plate and found that the set screw (bolt) on the speed lever very loose. Tightened it up and used a new lockwasher. Restarted tractor but it still speeded up. BTW, The whole gov. assembly seems very "relaxed" (including spring) when throttle is in closed position. Is this the way it's supposed to be? I reread your article on your 51 H and you mention adjusting the "High speed bolt" Which one is this and which way does it turn to lower rpms?
Thanks for answering.

rustred · Jul 15, 2012

another thing is the weights may be so badly worn that they are jammed in the outward position. need to remove cover and have a look in there.

The Red · Jul 15, 2012

Bruce I found my manual. The lower bolt is the high speed bolt. Screw it in to slow down the engine RPM. I am guessing around 1/2 inch should protrude left beyond the lever assembly. Upper one is the idle speed about 3/8 inch protruding. Should get you in the ballpark.

The Red · Jul 15, 2012

I think we are getting there. Governor assembly seems to be the culprit.

rustred · Jul 15, 2012

the speed screw is to just contact the stop when throttle is in wide open position.it is locked with a NUT on the threads, not lockwasher. yes it is relaxed when engine not running. once running the wieghts fly out and hold the throttle.

The Red · Jul 15, 2012

I think we have found the culprit which seems to be in the governor assembly.

Anonymous-0 · Jul 15, 2012

Did as you suggested. Took top cover off and held down the rod goin to gov and she idled right down. When I held it down, it took all the slop out of the linkage. The stop nut on the rod was only down about 3/8 of an in. I'm assuming the rod is adjustable since it has a lot of threads on it. Someone was in there before. There's a brand new cotter pin in the pin that holds the throttle shaft.
Could it be that whoever worked on this didn't adjust it correctly?

Brownie 450 · Jul 15, 2012

The weights work against the gov spring to slow it down. The spring should be the only thing opening the throttle shaft. Are the weight "fingers" engaging the proper area in the gov?

rustred · Jul 15, 2012

that is correct, i relized that when you said you had a lockwasher on the speed adjust. the adjustment starts right there at that rod. you need throttle lever wide open then remove the pin next to the rod. then hold the throttle shaft lever and the adjusting block up. if the pin will not go in adjust the block with the rod till it goes in freely. now you are adjusted in w.o. t. now fine tuning is next.

DonR of Mn · Jul 15, 2012

It sounds to me what you need to do is get an "IT" manual and go the section on adjusting and setting the trottle and carb linkage. It is a simple procces. But a little hard to tell how to do here. With a manual it show what parts are what and what order to set every thing. I just did it to my 650 Gas and with it done by the book it all works right. From what I have read here everybody is kind telling you parts of procedure, but not everything at once. Get the book if you don't have one start from scratch.

Anonymous-0 · Jul 15, 2012

I do have an IT manual. Don't know why I didn't consult it earlier. I just went thru the adjustments shown in the manual, but it didn't come out exactly the way the manual says. For example, the clevis on the gov. rod was already adjusted down as far as it would go, and should go farther to line up with connection with throttle shaft. It supposed to be adjusted with WOT. I got as close as possible to what manual says, and actually got the engine to idle on its own for about 5 minutes, but then it started revving up again. Almost acts like the governor is sticking, but WHAT is sticking, I don't know.

rustred · Jul 15, 2012

have you checked the weights where the pins go, i have seen those holes worn right out and cause the weights to stick. you may also need to adjust the linkage from hand throttle to governor to get proper adjustment at throttle shaft lever.

pete 23 · Jul 15, 2012

Often time guys get into that governor and think they can increase the rpms of engine by making that link longer. No such luck. The weights and spring tension balance out to control speed. Harder the spring pulls on internal lever, faster engine will run. That link vertical adjustable link is to be adjusted so when gov weights are fully collapsed the throttle plate in carb is fully open, straight up and down. To adjust, take pin out, pull throttle lever wide open, pull up on lever that goes to carb, and then adjust the length of the rod clevis so pin just fit in.

Anonymous-0 · Jul 16, 2012

I had a 300 that was racing and I believed it was in the gov. I disconnected the linkage to the gov so it would come all the way forward and it ran great. Someone had the wrong linkage in it. I made one that was correct and fixed the problem. They had removed any adjustment rods in all of the linkages. I used some smooth rod and threaded the one end and used a yolk that I had lying around and was all good after that. Just a thought.

Jay Snyder · Jul 17, 2012

Have you checked the gasket between the carb and manifold? If the gasket is bad and doesnt seal it will suck air past it and the tractor will race. It basicually takes the throttle away from it. It will suck the air and it will pull the fuel up out of the carb. Check that first it is the cheapest and easiest. Good luck Jason

Racing H: Update on the Update

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