Hello, first post

I tried to post earlier. A very long post with picture, and was turned down for some reason that I didn't understand. Not sure what gives. It also said that I need to contact YT to get the problem resolved. Not sure how to do that. Can someone steer me in the right direction?

Thanks

Patrick
 

Well, looks like I'm in this time, yea! Should I try to post my picture again. I suspect that maybe that's the problem. I'm not very savvy on computer jargan, but when I was rejected it mentions something about codes of some kind.

Patrick
 
farmall.jpg
 
Good lookin' M!Those "F series' cultivator brackets
are cool!never seen any beforeWelcome!!Thanks for
posting.Steve.
 
Yeehaa! Got her done. OK, here's my original post:

I recently bought a 1949 M from Craig's list for $600.00. which I thought was a good deal. First let me say that I saw the M start and run when it was unloaded from the trailer and drove into the shop, and it sounded pretty good. No smoke, no popping, just smooth.

I did notice the carb was leaking when the gas was turned on, but stopped leaking when the motor started running. That made me think that I should get a carb repair kit. Haven't got the kit yet, but did get the tune up video from J & B productions. In it shows the venturi with the long end sticking out, and the short part sticking in. A very easy slip fit. Mine is just the opposite, and it feels like it was forced in, because it won't bulge. I don't want to force it out, 'cause I'm afraid I'll bugger it up. The parts manual also shows the long part in, short part out. BTW, the tractor that the gentleman was working was a SMTA. That shouldn't make any difference, right?

So am I OK with this. Does it really matter which way the venturi goes. Like I said, it was running fine as is.

Also, the float looks like it's sort of caved in on both sides. Is that normal?

A couple of other minor things. The hood has a spliced on piece at the front about 2 3/4" long. Might it have been an "H" hood at one time? Right now it's total length is 41", and it don't fit very well. It feels like it sprung somehow. OK, last thing. It has a square front bolster. Is this common for a '49 M? I think not.

You guys are great, and I've learned a lot from you, and I'm still learning. I'm no expert, when it comes to Farmall M's, still very wet behind the ears. I did grow up around Ford 8N's.

TIA, Patrick
 
Venturi will only fit correct one way. If I understand the description correct, venturi is installed correct. They stick inside the throttle body sometimes. On realy stuck ones I remove the throttle shaft and drive them out the bottom of the throttle body. Old wood broom handle sawed off with a rounded end to venturi works good to do it without damage. Don't know if this is the reason for the float damage, but thats something that can happen if a air hose is used to blow through the carb inlet for a fuel flow problem by someone uninformed. Or float was rubbing the bowl and they just mashed it in to clear instead of doing it right.
Front bolster is the reason for the hood being to short. It moves the radiator around 1.5 inches farther forward or away from the engine than a M gas bolster.
 
Patrick you might win the 2012 stolen Farmall award! Looks pretty good for $600. Oil pan gasket might be the original 1949 though. :)
 
(quoted from post at 04:27:32 07/06/12) Venturi will only fit correct one way. If I understand the description correct, venturi is installed correct. They stick inside the throttle body sometimes. On realy stuck ones I remove the throttle shaft and drive them out the bottom of the throttle body. Old wood broom handle sawed off with a rounded end to venturi works good to do it without damage. Don't know if this is the reason for the float damage, but thats something that can happen if a air hose is used to blow through the carb inlet for a fuel flow problem by someone uninformed. Or float was rubbing the bowl and they just mashed it in to clear instead of doing it right.
Front bolster is the reason for the hood being to short. It moves the radiator around 1.5 inches farther forward or away from the engine than a M gas bolster.

Exactly! The venturi cannot be installed wrong without first breaking something. If it is stuck, and most of them are, I use a small propane torch to heat the cast iron around the venturi. Get it good and hot, and then squirt some penetrating oil on it. Squirt a little at a time until it stops smoking, and then just walk away from it. Go have a cup od coffee or whatever, and then carefully grab the venturi with a pair of pliers and gently try to turn it, nice and slow, back and forth, squirt some more oil, use some patience, and eventually it will come out.
 
Thanks for the feedback guys. I see things a little more clearly now. Most helpful. It's comforting to know that my carb is not really that all that bad. I was just about to pull the trigger on another one that I have spotted. Might anyway just to have a spare. :D

Appreciate you guys very much.

Patrick
 

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