I split the 300 and this is what I found

Zachary Hoyt · Jun 22, 2012

I split it last night. I hope my splitting stand doesn't give anyone the heebie-jeebies, I think it is quite sufficient to support the weight and the frame rails are lag bolted to the skid so it should stay together. The splines in the pressure plate are almost completely gone, the ones on the shaft are damaged and I assume I should replace that too. The clutch disk is not down to the rivets yet but maybe I should just replace it while I'm in there. The TO bearing is rough, but the pilot bearing seems fine. I am planning to move the front out of the way and remove the center housing so I can pull out the TA and see if it needs to be replaced with a rebuilt unit. It looks like it was run in almost low position for a while based on where the TA lever latch is positioned and the fact that the broken off lever was rusted in place solidly. Is there anything I need to do to remove the center housing other than disconnecting the clutch and TA linkages, supporting the weight and removing the bolts? I am particularly wondering about the IPTO driveshaft and how that is affected. Any advice will be much appreciated.
Zach

mike1972chev · Jun 22, 2012

Are those concrete blocks sitting under the rear end????? GET THOSE OUT OF THERE!! Those can crumble apart in seconds!Get some solid timbers or something steel.

hoof print · Jun 22, 2012

Please do get rid of the concrete blocks.

The Red · Jun 22, 2012

Zach If I ever have to split one of my Hs or Ms and saw that mess, I would replace anything and everything. Sure not going in there again in my life time. Also agree on getting rid of those cinder blocks. That is an accident going somewhere to happen!!!!

riverbend · Jun 22, 2012

On my 350 the center section was spigotted into the rearend. It took tapping a long, tapered 'chisel' in on eiher side to get it apart.

Greg

glennster · Jun 22, 2012

zach, looks like it needs a couple new parts in there. i'd change the pilot bearing too 'as long as yer in there. give mike at steel wheel ranch a holler, he will send you out the whole works in a couple days.

dhermesc · Jun 22, 2012

See the jack in front of them?

sflem849 · Jun 22, 2012

(quoted from post at 13:07:11 06/22/12) See the jack in front of them?

And they are the right direction.

D Slater · Jun 22, 2012

PTO shaft in the center housing will just come out with the housing. From the seasonal disconnect forward. Use dowel pins on each side and don't forget the housing retaining bolt up in the seasonal disconnect hole. 9 bolts total center housing to trans. housing.
To remove the worn PTO drive shaft in the front. Remove the clutch operating cross shaft and the three bolts in the housing the release bearing slides on. Screw a slide hammer in the clutch shaft, its 3/8 coarse threads. When the shaft comes out the pto shaft with gear and housing comes with it.
Hard to say if it was run in low t/a until you remove the top cover on the center housing and see what the t/a release bearing and t/a clutch and parts look like. IF the t/a clutch is intact the second shaft lever or back one on the t/a housing will have tension on it trying to turn it clockwise if in low.
You need a manual to tackle the whole job.

Zachary Hoyt · Jun 22, 2012

Thanks, I'll give him a call. Used parts seem like a good idea from a cost viewpoint.
Zach

Bouncer · Jun 22, 2012

I would bet a dollar the noise that caused the PO to park it, was from the throwout bearing eating into those clutch fingers and chewing them off. I agree with the others, and go ahead and replace all you can afford. That whole clutch is going to need to be rebuilt. That clutch disk will not hold anything if you put it back in, see how shiny it is. It has been slipped A BUNCH! You can see the marks in it from building up so much heat. Most likely due to someone putting it all back together and not aligning the clutch properly on install, or using bad parts when putting it back together.

Zachary Hoyt · Jun 22, 2012

Thanks for the advice, now I know what I need to do to get it apart. I forgot to post pictures when I opened the top cover, but I got some now. I picked up that bolt before it fell in, I don't know why I left it there in the first place. The TA rolls one way easily by hand and the other way it does not turn at all by hand. I'm not sure what that means but it seemed like a good thing, possibly.
Zach

Zachary Hoyt · Jun 22, 2012

I think the noise was caused at least partly by the stripped splines on the pressure plate that used to drive the IPTO. He told me he was baling hay with it when the noise began.
Zach

Zachary Hoyt · Jun 22, 2012

I'll see what else I can come up with instead of concrete.
Zach

Bouncer · Jun 22, 2012

When they stripped, the pressure plate shifted. I it caused the throw out bearing to eat into the fingers, and partially disengage the clutch enough for it to slip and build up all that glaze from heat. I am sure the noise happened at the same time and he had no idea what was going on.

Zachary Hoyt · Jun 22, 2012

That makes sense, and he said he had no idea what was going on. He parked it in front of the shed to wait for his nephew or son in law (I forgot) to come and figure out the problem and there it sat for 4 or 5 years or more. I know I saw it there in 2009 and asked him about it, but he said he had just put $2500 into the transmission and I didn't have any experience with tractor repair at that time or enough money to make him a reasonable offer. That was right before I bought the first tractor of my own. Then the tractor came up for auction this spring and I bought it and now here I am. I think that if I can get it working it will really be the perfect thing for what I do.
Zach

armand tatro · Jun 22, 2012

To support the T. A. housing I would use a heavy duty engine stand with a extra support and flange assy. on the opposite side that matches the orginal support and flange assy. Also would be real nice if the engine stand had heavy duty wheels on it to move the T. A. housing as needed. Take your time and stay safe! Armand

Zachary Hoyt · Jun 22, 2012

I have a tractor with a loader and forks so I am planning to use that to hold it. A hoist would be better but I have had good luck removing engines from parts tractors that way.
Zach

TJV · Jun 22, 2012

as far as your question to the TA assenbly only turning one way that is correct the over running clutch in the ta will only allow it to turn one way if it turned both directions the tractor would not move when the ta was in low but turning only one way by hand still does not say the ta is good you cant put the pressure on it that the engine does. As other have recconended get a manual the I&T is a good one for ta instructions.

armand tatro · Jun 23, 2012

An engine stand will give you MUCH more and PRECISE control and a SOLID support stand/bench to work on the T. A. housing. For one man working alone or even with helper the tractor and loader would be awkward and take up a lot of shop space and still not give you the control you need for this project and after removeal from the tractor you would still need a solid bench to set the T. A. housing on to R. and R. the T. A. assy. The engine stand/support bencn allows you to acsess the T. A. housing from all sides, top, and bottom of the housing after you roll it away and back to the tractor to reinstall all the while providing a SAFE and SOLID work area. Use the engine stand and enjoy the job! Armand

I split the 300 and this is what I found

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