Farmall H Petrol/Gasoline Tank Tap

My 1940 Farmall H is set up for kerosene operation. The smaller fuel tank tap leaks severely past the handle shank. I cannot remove the tap from the tank without risk of tearing the tank body because the tap is screwed in so tightly. Is there some sort of packing (similar to water pump packing) I can use to stop the leak? The tap seals off the fuel perfectly well, but drips constantly when open. I do run the tractor on kerosene for heavy work, so I need both tanks. Any advice appreciated. Thanks.
SadFarmall
 
I HAVE A TANK THAT WILL WORK ON THE H FARMALL. I WILL SELL FOR 50.00 PLUS FREIGHT. FRANK CASWELL 1+859+608+6404 THANK'S
 
Yes, the old graphite looking water pump packing will work. Unthread the compression nut, wrap some around, and re-tighten.

The stuff you are referring to, is I assume, the stuff we used to seal around the pump rod shaft on a pressure system that used a cylinder to pump the well water.
 
i read a post on here a few months back that recomenned using the yellow gas line teflon tape as a packing for the stem on the shutoff on a sediment bowl. i did it to our H this spring and it worked very well. Take a peice of the yellow teflon tape a couple inches long and roll it up the to make a little rope and then wrap the around the shaft under the compression nut get as mich in as possible as it compresses alot and tighten the nut as tight as you can but still be able to turn the shutoff, it actually worked good to make it so tight it wouldn't turn the back it off a little.
 
Thanks for the advice folks. I'll get onto it straight away. I am getting closer to having everything running properly. My Dad wants to use it to pull disc harrows as we have a couple of sets of GL-9-A Tractor Disc Harrows, which are probably just an Australian version of U.S. produced harrows. Thanks also for the offer of a tank, but shipping all the way out here is not cheap, so I fix what I can fix and buy what I have to!
SadFarmall
 
A couple more comments:
1) Some guys use an o-ring. It needs to be fuel-proof material. It will survive being stretched over the inner end of the stem.

2) Most (all?) of the originals valves were back-seating. Those don't need packing but if not completely open, they will leak.
 

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