TylerFarmallH
Member
What do i need to do to make my ampere gauge work after a 12 volt conversion? Is there a gauge common for people to switch to?
- Thread starter TylerFarmallH
- Start date
John G. Hasler
Member
The one you've got will work. Just swap the terminals.
TylerFarmallH
Member
Thats Great! thanks!
TylerFarmallH
Member
I'm unsure of what that means. I took off and saved the 6 volt generator and replaced it with a 12 volt battery, alternator, capacitor, and diode. Is that enought information to determine if I have changed the polarity?
TylerFarmallH
Member
The meter worked fine before I converted the tractor. I am assuming polarity is the issue because of this... ?
John G. Hasler
Member
It's a rare six-volt system that is not positive ground, and it is a bad idea to hook up a 12-volt system positive ground as everyone will assume that it is negative ground because 12-volt systems always are.
John G. Hasler
Member
If it works you've changed the polarity to negative ground as that is how 12-volt alternators are wired internally.
Anonymous-0
Well-known Member
The ammeter will be in series between
the charging device and the battery. If
polarity is changes the meter will read
backwards. Simply reverse the wires at
the meter if this is the result.
the charging device and the battery. If
polarity is changes the meter will read
backwards. Simply reverse the wires at
the meter if this is the result.
SadFarmall
Member
Well, it seems to me that the answers are:
1). The ammeter will work at ANY voltage.
2). If you have changed from Positive Ground to Negative Ground and leave the ammeter as it was there will be no damage. The ammeter will, however, read in reverse. That is it will show a discharge when the alternator is charging the battery instead of the other way around. All you need to do to rectify this is reverse the wire at the back of the ammeter.
As to positive and negative ground. There are 6, 12 and 24 volt systems which use negative ground as there are 6, 12 and 24 systems which use positive ground. The battery does not charge any better or any worse with either system. Some alternators will not, however, tolerate being wired up as positive to ground; they blow diodes.
SadFarmall
1). The ammeter will work at ANY voltage.
2). If you have changed from Positive Ground to Negative Ground and leave the ammeter as it was there will be no damage. The ammeter will, however, read in reverse. That is it will show a discharge when the alternator is charging the battery instead of the other way around. All you need to do to rectify this is reverse the wire at the back of the ammeter.
As to positive and negative ground. There are 6, 12 and 24 volt systems which use negative ground as there are 6, 12 and 24 systems which use positive ground. The battery does not charge any better or any worse with either system. Some alternators will not, however, tolerate being wired up as positive to ground; they blow diodes.
SadFarmall
TylerFarmallH
Member
I tinkered with it most of the afternoon. I discovered a couple things... The battery was hooked up backwards, and no combination of wires made the ammeter work. I'm guessing a diode is the issue because the ammeter hasn't worked since the conversion. Would it help if I attached a picture of my setup? When I hook my multimeter to the alternator it shows a good charge, between 12 and 20 usually.
SadFarmall
Member
Yes, a wiring diagram would be very helpful. Measured current flows through the ammeter. This means that the ammeter must be wired in series as a part of the charging circuit between the battery and the alternator. If you wire it up in parallel, it will not work. If you wire a voltmeter up in parallel it will work perfectly.
If you had a sufficiently large ammeter, with a reading of say 200-0-200 then you could simply connect it between the battery terminal and the wire leading to the starter motor and alternator etc. This would show all charge and discharge including current flow through the starter while it operates. If you do this with a standard ammeter and then press the starter button the result will be smoke and/or sparks and fire.
Of course, if you are as stubborn as me and live in a place where IHC used Lucas equipment, then you have all the fun of Lucas 6 and 12 volt systems running positive Earth as per Farmall M, AM, AMD, AW-7 etc.
SadFarmall
If you had a sufficiently large ammeter, with a reading of say 200-0-200 then you could simply connect it between the battery terminal and the wire leading to the starter motor and alternator etc. This would show all charge and discharge including current flow through the starter while it operates. If you do this with a standard ammeter and then press the starter button the result will be smoke and/or sparks and fire.
Of course, if you are as stubborn as me and live in a place where IHC used Lucas equipment, then you have all the fun of Lucas 6 and 12 volt systems running positive Earth as per Farmall M, AM, AMD, AW-7 etc.
SadFarmall
TylerFarmallH
Member
Here is a picture. I come off the terminals with a harness, the diode side goes to the coil and the other side goes to the hot. I hooked up the ground just because the wire was already there. I mounted the resistor back a ways but you can see it in the bottom left corner. I am going to test the diode today and see if I blew it when the 12 volt battery was wired with a positive ground. If thats not it, I guess i will try another ampmeter.... [/img]
If you hooked up the battery to positive ground with the alternator, I'm afraid you probably burned up the alternator.
Your alternator should not put out "between 12 and 20." It should put out an even voltage of 14.2-14.8V. Wide variations like you state indicate that the regulator is probably destroyed.
There should be no "ground wire" on the alternator. It is grounded through the mounting bracket.
Your alternator should not put out "between 12 and 20." It should put out an even voltage of 14.2-14.8V. Wide variations like you state indicate that the regulator is probably destroyed.
There should be no "ground wire" on the alternator. It is grounded through the mounting bracket.
TylerFarmallH
Member
So after your post I took the alternator into oreillys and had them test the regulator. Thankfully it's fine as is the diode. The battery reads 13.14 when off and 12.87 when charging. I think the resistor brings the reading down? Everything seems to be working, I am replacing the amp guage today.
In your picture, you have the blue wire from the alternator going to the old regulator.
You should not have anything connected to the old regulator at all.
All you need is ONE wire from the BAT terminal on the alternator running to a post on your ammeter.
The post on the ammeter should be the same one as is connected to the ignition switch and lights. The other post should go to the battery or starter switch.
You should not have anything connected to the old regulator at all.
All you need is ONE wire from the BAT terminal on the alternator running to a post on your ammeter.
The post on the ammeter should be the same one as is connected to the ignition switch and lights. The other post should go to the battery or starter switch.
TylerFarmallH
Member
I didn't read about removing the voltage regulator when coverting to 12 volt. It's necessary? I disconnected the blue ground wire and tested it with no difference. The hot wire does run through both the diode and the regulator...
TylerFarmallH
Member
Thanks so much. I had two regulators and a bad amp guage. I removed the regulator used for the generator everything is working fine now. Thanks everyone.
TylerFarmallH
Member
Strangely enough now that the conversion is working I noticed its idling rough. Is this common after a 12 volt conversion? Is the change in the electrical affecting the ignition and is it now requiring an adjustment?
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