656 Hydro freewheeling again (kinda long)

I got to use the 656 again today. Finally finished the little bit of plowing I had to do and then tried a couple more test to see if I can figure out this freewheeling thing. I thought the oil should be good and warm after plowing.
I started down a hill until I could feel it start to speed up. I tried holding the speed ratio lever to the right as Owen suggested but it didn’t seem to make any difference (couldn’t really move it much). I pulled the lever all the way back to neutral and while it did slow down some it continued rolling to the bottom of the hill. So I got the bright idea to try the same thing in reverse this time. Different story entirely. Slowed down and sped up under complete control with the lever in reverse. Returning to neural brought it to a complete halt as long as I held the lever to the left in align with the reverse slot. If I allowed it to move to the center of the neutral slot it would break free and start rolling backwards. So it seems the problem only exist in forward.
I also tried a stall test today but not sure if I did it correctly. My tach went crazy today so I was guessing at the RPMs but think it was close to PTO speed or just slightly below. First put it in high range and held the brakes and moved the lever forward. It loaded the engine down to the point of stalling within a few seconds, which I think is good. Tried again in low range and it loaded the engine severely but didn’t stall the engine out but then again I couldn’t hold it in place with the brakes either. Does this sound right?
I got some caps to cap the two lines off up by the starter but didn’t get to try that as it started to pour rain.
Allan, Are the capsules you refer to, those two hex plugs facing me just above the battery?
Anyone have any new thoughts given this info?
Tim

The next step is to cap off the control lines where they leave the hydro housing. Just be sure you do it outside where there is plenty of room to operate since the only control you will have is the S/R lever. The Foot-N-Inch valve will not function with the lines capped off. That test determines whether the problem is internal to the hydro housing or external in the control valves.

Yes,

To test, reverse the two. The "problem direction" should then change to reverse and forward will be okay.

Allan

The two capsules are not interchange able. Internal
relief valves are.

Doggone it, I beg to differ on that one (*kinda*). :>)

Yes, I know they are different in their characteristics and function, but they will swap out just long enough to see if we're dealing with a defective/wrong capsule or a valve/lever/adjustment issue.

In fact, his problem sounds just like the system would act if the capsules had already been installed backwards.

In other words, take a healthy hydro, reverse those two capsules and you'll end up with his same symptoms of no "hold back".

Allan

They will probably do just what you said when you swap out a correct acting hydro, but I don't think they will tell you for sure that his free wheeling problem is in the capsules. I never actually tried it, just tried a new one. I remember the old story that you can tell which one is which by shaking them and the one will have a ball that rattles back and forth. I surely don't remember which one it was. Well, anyway, like you said, they do have different functions.

OK! Tonight I had a chance to do some more testing. Removed and capped the two lines and gave it another try. It worked perfectly!
Reconnected the two lines and the problem returns. So it sounds like the problem exists in the external controls. I assume that’s good news. So is the general consensus then to next try exchanging the A & B capsules and see what happens?

One other thing I noticed after plowing the other day was that the spin on Hydrostatic filter on the left, while slightly warm, was not nearly as warm as the hydraulic filter housing on the right. Don’t know if this is significant or not. I changed both filters when I bought it last fall.
Tim