chaining down your Farmall?? Your thoughts please.

colby64 · Apr 28, 2012

Guys how to you tie down your tractor?

My thought is to use a clevis on a plate on the front of the tractor, you can't see this it's right below the two front weights. see pic below.

Then do the same think underneath with a clevis, right near where the 2pt mounts to the tractor.

your thoughts??

Picture below is my trailer, sorry but the HOT looking Oliver is sold

CNKS · Apr 28, 2012

I have used 2 chains many times with no problems, I have since switched to 4 due to the remote chance that one of the 2 could break. The attaching points don't make much difference as long as they are solid. On my restored Super H I use clevises attached to the holes on the sides of the upper bolster, primarily to avoid contact with the paint. The rear chains are attached to the drawbar. There are many ways to do it.

colby64 · Apr 28, 2012

thanks....

I plan to not attach anywhere that I could possible mess up the paint, clevis in front and pull forward, and clevis in rear pulling rearward.

fun fun.

Greg K · Apr 28, 2012

I have seen a lot of guys bolt hooks through the frame holes near the center of the tractor and use those to chain to. If it was me I think I would also bolt one to the drawbar, however I don't worry too much about paint since I believe they were meant to be used. Really sucks though when that first scratch gets put in one.

colby64 · Apr 28, 2012

yep i hear you.... thanks for the thoughts.

i went with over the tire trailer so width would not be an issue, should be perfect, has two torsion axles both 7K, oh and has 3 ramps too. lol

thanks

IAtractorKid · Apr 28, 2012

You really should have 4 chains...one on each corner. When
hauling one of my painted tractors, we always use 10,000lb
rated axle straps and hook the chains to those. Around a front
frame rail on each side and each axle housing on the back.
Can put cardboard between the axle straps and paint if your
really worried (I usually do).

colby64 · Apr 28, 2012

thanks... good idea!

Bob M · Apr 28, 2012

4 chains - one to each corner.

The front chains attach to 10,000 lb tow hooks bolted near the front of the side frame rails. The rear chains wrap in the corners of the drawbar.

For added peace of mind, once the chains are tightened I wrap a 10,000 lb ratchet strap over the torque tube and wind it tight.

armand tatro · Apr 29, 2012

DOT regs. call for 4 attatchment points and 4 chains. Also extra chains for any mounted equipment such as mowers, loader buckets, etc. If you insist on using clevis be sure to use bolts, nuts and cotter pins and not hitch pint as hitch pins can/will bend, the safty clip will not hold, and the clevis will spread open. I believe the proper word for what you want is shackles. DOT officers don't care about scratch paint, only safty. Armand

colby64 · Apr 29, 2012

thanks for all the help.

Just want to make sure the mounting points are set so I can limit paint damage

Think I will make the front mounting plate with 2 holes to attach, still working on the rear locations... two screw type clevis to the 2-pt maybe

Jim in Ma. · Apr 29, 2012

I use a 3 or 4 foot length of fire hose and run the chain in that to protect the paint.

colby64 · Apr 29, 2012

great idea Jim, wondered if anyone did that or not.

thanks!

rustyfarmall · Apr 29, 2012

I've hauled several tractors similar to that Oliver, and chained down just like in the picture. I've never been pulled over by the D.O.T. for an inspection, but I have come under their eagle eye scrutiny many times. I may not have been 100% compliant, but I was close enough that they weren't going to waste any time me.

One chain through a clevis on the drawbar is sufficient at the rear and will do minimal damage to the paint.

If I have time to set the tractor up, I much prefer 2 chains at the front, one on each side, attached to a hook, or short length of chain that is permanently attached to the frame rails.

colby64 · Apr 29, 2012

Rusty check out my other post for tractor progress

yes under 10K you need 2 binders & 2 chains.

Think I will make a front plate with 2 attachment hole, and attach 2 chains there plus two in the back also... "pulling" on each other. It won't go anywhere

thanks for all the comment guys!

rustyfarmall · Apr 29, 2012

(quoted from post at 07:28:14 04/29/12) Rusty check out my other post for tractor progress

yes under 10K you need 2 binders & 2 chains.

Think I will make a front plate with 2 attachment hole, and attach 2 chains there plus two in the back also... "pulling" on each other. It won't go anywhere

thanks for all the comment guys!

Just keep in mind that not only do you need to secure the tractor from forward and rearward movement, but you also need to secure it from side to side. Attaching the tie down chains to the frame rails, one on each side, will keep the tractor ON the trailer, even if the trailer ends up in a ditch, on its side.

colby64 · Apr 29, 2012

good point...

that reminds me, think I need to up the insurance on my tractor. lol

Old-F20 · Apr 29, 2012

IIRC here in iowa if an item has a weight of 5000lbs or more, you have to put 4 chains with 4 points of pull on it. do we all do that on tractors? not really, but as Rustyfarmall pointed out you will get looked at and its all dependant on what kind of day the DOT guy is having whether or not you get to receive a driving award.

on a 560 best thing to do is permantly mount 2 hooks at the front of the framerails to put a chain off each corner. the bolster and framerails are a lot stronger that the front wheel pedistal should you get in a wreck of somesort.

colby64 · Apr 29, 2012

good idea, we cleaned those holds all out when we removed the frame rails for sand blasting and power coatings.

like the idea of stressing steering post...

I'll need to lookup some type of mount to make it look decent though.

thx

TGIN · Apr 29, 2012

Just be sure to never take the chains off before you take the picture . A good friend to all of us from neb. took a pic. of a tractor after he had taken the chains off and posted it here a few yrs. back .He was rode hard for 3 days for hauling a tractor without chaining it down .

sflem849 · Apr 29, 2012

There is no point in putting two holes in one plate. DOT says you need separate attatchments or they treat them as a single chain (IIRC)

I roll like this. It works well until you haul two tractors. Then you almost have to pull in with the chains. You can still haul them in a similar manner, but you pull against the engine mounts and I am not in love with that.

colby64 · Apr 29, 2012

thinking of making a mount to attach in the lower two set of holes on the frame rail. Something customer that looks right

WOK · Apr 29, 2012

I've bolted a 3/8"x3"x8" plate under front wheel pedistal (2 5/8" bolts) then attach a hook clevis and chain going 2 ways. On the drewbar I use clevis' on the corners. - WOK

rustyfarmall · Apr 29, 2012

Just a thought, but I've seen a few of the NEW, compact and sub-compact tractors with ONE good sized eye bolt located in the center, underneath the tractor. Factory installed, to be used specifically for tieing the tractor down while being transported. Probably would not be acceptable for an 8,000 to 10,000 pound tractor.

36F30 · Apr 29, 2012

I use machinery lifting eyes bolted into the frame rails. They are rated for 10,000 lbs strait pull and about 6000 on an angle pull. Painted with the tractor most people don't even notice them.

On the rear I use rated shackles (threaded pin clevis) one on each corner.

4- 2 inch 10,000# ratchet straps with 5000# working load limits gives me 20,000 pounds of rated tie down for a 6,000# tractor with all ratings printed on or cast into the components. No heavy dirty chains to be found.[/img]

Bouncer · Apr 29, 2012

My intent when I haul anything is this. If heaven forbid the truck and trailer ever rolled on its side, I plan on what I am hauling to still be chained down. I catch a lot of stuff at pulls and shows for over doing it, but it only takes a couple minutes to throw on an extra chain and binder. Also, as for binders. I have always used traditional break over binder. Last year I went out and bought 6 new ratchet binders, and I wish I would have bought them 15 years ago. Below is a couple pics of some of the loads I have hauled.

uncle henry · Apr 29, 2012

this is how i did it on this load but every load is
different

ihredo4 · Apr 29, 2012

I was always taught to have one chain and binder for each and every contact point on a trailer. As long as I have remembered that I have not gotten into trouble. Oh and that I have to know my load and the laws better than the Officer does.

colby64 · Apr 29, 2012

thanks for all the help guys.....

I think 4 chains and screw type binders will be used

just need to get mounting points together

thanks

rustyfarmall · Apr 30, 2012

One other thing to keep in mind. Usually the chains will loosen up after just a short 1/2 to 1 mile, so you need to stop at your earliest convenience and check the tightness. Do it again after you've driven a few miles. The chains will usually stay tight after 2 or 3 re-tightenings.

Ken Ind · May 1, 2012

I hauled tractors all over the state of Indiana and hooked them about the same way you had the Oliver , the othey way was to pull from the front and the back criss crossing the chains.Had alot people complain about hw tight i would have the chainsbut, I never had one come looseand the only time I had one come loose was when someone else had tied it down . I would also stop after a few miles and retigten the chains

chaining down your Farmall?? Your thoughts please.

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