Super H has water coming out of exhaust?? Help!!

Ok you guys have helped in the past and would like advice on what I can do to hear my Super H run. Here is a quick run down on this tractor. Im the second owner. It was used for light farm work and whatnot by the original owner, then it sat for an what the owner said 5 yrs?? Not sure.. but the engine was stuck.. Filled cylinders with penetrating oil, took pan off and unbolted the rod caps, had the head off and wacked the pistons with a 2x3 piece of hardwood, and got them to move. put everything back together, new carb rebuild kit, points, plugs, wires, rotor, new battery, etc. Ok I then tried starting and almost got it running, wouldnt go thou..We live on a big hill so I had my father tow me up to the top of the hill and I put tractor in 4th on top of the hill and let the clutch out, and it then fired under the "load of the hill" It then had water coming out of the exhaust! I instantly thought head gasket or the worst. So i took the head back off thinking maybe I installed the head gasket upside down...So I bought a new head gasket, made sure it was installed on right and the head was torqued down properly. Put it all back together..wouldnt start...so tried towing again....same thing..water out the exhaust! I assume that the water from the radiator is putting my fire out in the cylinder thus not allowing it to run? then it pushes out the exhaust? I visually see now cracks in the head or block..Do you guys think I have a cracked head or block? Do the cylinders have sleeves or no? Was wondering if I have a cracked sleeve maybe? I do not know what to do now, and dont know the easiest and possibly cheapest way to go about checking to see what my problem is! Should i take the head to someone to have it magnafluxed? I hate to rip the engine out if i dont absolutely need to. Is there a way to pressure test to see where my leak is? I was once told on a previous tractor i was working on to remove the pan and then pressure test the radiator and if i have a leak that it will visually be seen that way. I dont have a pressure tester, is this a way to check? Sorry about the long post guys, i just am itching to hear this run on its own and this is one fine looking super h with no dents or dings in the tin work anywhere! Please help and thank you in advance!!!

Describe the water coming out. Does the tractor sit outside with an open exhaust? Its not unusual for a tractor to spit out droplets when it first starts as the cold muffler and pipe condense gases and sometimes spit out droplets.Have you sucessfully started the tractor by rolling it down the hill?
Take the plugs out and spin the engine over and see what comes out the plug holes. Has the level in the rad gone down? Yes there are sleeves in the engine.Are you in a climate where the block may have frozen and cracked? We need more info to help you.

OK, the water coming out is not from sitting or condensation..I do know what you mean, and the tractor is outside but has a weathercap. The tractor was running a bit going down the hill spitting and sputtering. Not really ever running under its own free will..once pulling in the driveway it would stall out (slight slope) I live in Western New York...so yes that is very possible that it happened in the past. The radiator level has gone down because it is really coming out the exhaust more than just a little.. I will try taking the plugs out, but sure i will see water coming out. Is it possible to have a sleeve that is cracked or something?

*I visually see NO cracks in the head or block*

I really havent done anything with it over the winter but occasionally turn the engine over to keep it from setting up again. It does have coolant in it now. Back last fall when I was working on it, like when i had the head off, i then immediately put everything back together such as the manifold and carb and everything...so i know that it isnt condensation...It is coming out pretty good..maybe the head is warped? Everything was torqued down tight, I dont know where the coolant is getting through.

Something that is supposed to hold water isn't and it's leaking into the cylinders but heck you knew that already. Could be a cracked sleeve, head or block, could be a bad head gasket or maybe monkeying around one of the sleeves moved, don't know if this is a wet sleeve or dry sleeve engine. If it's a wet sleeve it could be leaking at the seals, if it's a dry sleeve it might of moved enough and is preventing the head gasket from sealing. Before I tore it apart again I think I would try spinning it over with the plugs out and see if water comes from all cylinders or only one, an alternative would be to pressurize the cooling system with the plugs out to see if the water is localized. Are you getting any water into the oil? Something else to look at and might help you figure out where it's coming from.

Surely you ARE NOT running straight water in this engine,are you??? Do you smell antifreeze in the air while it it running??? (Burn,sweet smell,can taste it on your toung even.)I f you ARe running coolant,and you DO NOT see,smell,taste(god forbid!)anything but water,You are getting either rain,condensation,ect leaking into the exaust. It should be pretty obvious.

I would do a pressure test on the cylinder. I use an old spark plug. Braze a male air coupler fitting on it. You have to get cyl on exact top dead center comp stroke. You can use unregulated pressure but I use a two gauge leak down tester . After you do this on all cylinders and if you find a leak you will know which cyl it is. If no leak shows up but I am sure it will from your symptoms, then you can think about pressurizing cooling system. Dropping pan etc. I bet you have a high sleeve flange as you notice the gasket does not seal all the way around on those sleeves. It cuts across to conform with shape of comb chamber in the head. Common problem.

Im sure its not the head gasket..The first time I tore it apart wasnt sure if i reinstalled it upside down, then after i noticed it pushing water out i said well i will just get a new gasket, same problem so im thinking the worst now I can try pulling all the plugs tomorrow and hook the battery charger up and whirl it over and make sure the radiator is full and see if i can tell where exactly the water is coming from. Yes the water is getting into the oil. Before attempting to start i put fresh engine oil in, and that is one of the first things i checked after i noticed the water coming out the exhaust...the engine oil looked milkly and the first initial drain was water just dont know the easiest way to find my problem..i will start with removing the plugs...im wondering if a sleeve maybe did move on me after i knocked the pistons loose?

Pete23 I know how to get it on the compression stroke but how do i hook the guage up? can u explain this a bit more? i have never done a compression test. you braze a male adapter on the end of the plug and put air to it? where is the guage? Thanks you!

Try draining all of the water out of the air cleaner?

You don't really need a gauge, you can just snap an air hose onto the fitting on plug. I should have said, you take an old spark plug and smash the guts out of it to braze a fitting on it. Far as the gauge I use, I hook my air hose onto my gauge assembly and then there is another quick coupler on the other side of the gauge and I snap that onto the modified spark plug. This is not a compression test, it is a pressure leak down test. My gauge set up has two gauges with an orfice between them and I can tell the percentage of leakage from the cyl. They all leak some past the rings but should not leak past valves and definetly not leak into cooling system. You look into the radiator for leakage. It gets a little more complicated than that but this is a quick rundown .

Might be a cracked block. I bought a W-4 (basically the same engine as an H) that was seized and couldn't get it to move so I took the head off and the cylinders were not rusted up. Penetrating fluid & some persuasion with a wood block got it loosened up. So I lapped the valves, put a new head gasket on and fired it up. Water and lots of it coming out of the exhaust plus it was missing on one cylinder. Took it apart again and pulled the piston out of the offending cylinder and there was a crack through the sleeve & cylinder wall that you could not see when the piston was in the cylinder. Farmall H's & W-4's have dry sleeves. I have seen a few IH blocks that cracked behind the sleeve. It can be an expensive repair job.

I will have to take a closer look and see if I can narrow down which cylinder(s) is subject..afraid a cracked block may be my problem :/

I would have the head magna-fluxed. Hal

If the leak is THAT bad you should be able to find it visually.

First off get the antifreeze out of there NOW. Use plain water for your testing as it is much cheaper, and if you spill it, your dog isn't going to die licking it up.

Drain the system if it's going to get cold enough to freeze, but it looks like for the next few days at least the temps will be in the low 40's at night.

Taking the plugs out and giving the engine a whirl after sitting overnight, at least one of the cylinders should shoot a stream of water out the plug hole.

Another thing you can try is to pull the oil pan off the engine and set some cardboard underneath. You should see a puddle form if it's leaking that bad.

I really believe in cylinder leakage tests too, I do it all the time on auto engines. Main thing in this case is to watch for ANY reaction in the radiator when you put the pressure to the cylinder. Leave the cap off the rad when testing. It will likely volcano outta there when you get to the offending cylinder in your case. You will need to keep the motor from turning from TDC when testing. (otherwise the valves will open and you wont have any testing pressure) Tractor in high gear with brakes locked hard should do. You can get a two gauge leakage tester fairly reasonable. It wont test for cracked block or split sleeve very well however,mostly head and head gasket,and engine wear /condition. An old tractor engine can show 40-50% leakage and run just fine(ring and valve wear). A fresh hi-perf auto engine we strive for less than 5% leakage. Between cylinder leakage testing and radiator pressure testing combined with logical deductive reasoning, you should be able to narrow it down to the trouble spot and solve the issue. I would suggest you figure it out BEFORE you tear it down again to try to eliminate wasted time,parts, frustrations....Best of luck !!!!!

Just checked Harbor Frieght has cylinder leak tester for $38.00

I would pressure test the cooling system with the intake-exhaust manifold removed, shine a bright flash light into the intake & exhaust ports to see if the head is leaking and hopefully which cylinder(s) need attention.