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wd9 Starting Problems

D

Dave Meisner

Member
Hi. I am in need of some advice. I can not start my wd9. It has gas in the carb, but wont suck gas into the intake manifold. I pulled the manifold off and the butterfly valves look fine and seem to be working properly. I plugged the large holes in the head to simulate what the compression lever does when you are starting it on gas, and there is suction in the small holes like it should be. I don"t know how much pressure it needs to suck gas, but there was suction. Any ideas? Also wondered if it would be ok to try to start the tractor on diesel without starting on gas first. Could this damage the head? Thank for your help!
 
No, it is not ok to start it on diesel. Your head won't care as much as your bottom end. Fix the problem don't rig up a solution!

Most of the time when this occurs it is the butterfly valves in the manifold. It sounds like you looked into them already, but I would still guess they are giving you problems. It takes a lot of suck to get gas.
 
Hold your hand over the throat of the carburetor and see if has good suction when making a start.
Poor suction means low intake manifold vacuum. You need good suction to pull that gas into the engine. You may just have a leak on the manifold. Snug up the bolts or nuts on your manifold. Make sure your valves have enough clearance. Hal
 
whats the history? did it start the last time? is it a fresh startup? does it have spark? the only way to get it started on deisel would be to pull it. i would pull it for a couple hundred yards and just let it smoke and warm itself from the compression at 1/3 throttle. then just give it a slight sniff of starting fluid and it should take off while pulling. gotta know what your doing and not recomended, but if a person is in a bind have to do something.thats the reason its gas start to get the engine warmed first then it switches over very smoothly.
 
A couple of added ideas:
They take a lot of choke at first.
They often have a float lifting linkage that shuts off fuel delivery when running on Diesel.
They have an ignition shutoff that grounds the mag, or opens the ignition voltage supply if point and coil ignition.
If these are OK, it should start.
Starting by pulling is OK, just don't pull it faster than it can go in a particular gear, and remember it will not inject fuel if the engine is turning faster than the control lever is set to run.
It will take as much as 1/2 mile of towing to get it warm enough to run. Jim
 
It sounds like you are on the right track by checking the usual culprits--I am terrible at internet tractor repairs so I will leave that to the others.

As for starting on diesel I have done that to a WD-6 & a WD-9 just to get them running while trying to figure out some starting issues. I never harmed the bottom end, has anyone actually had that happen? It works better on a warm summer day than on a cool spring/fall day. Getting the engine running at least seems to loosen up an engine that has been sitting for a long time and then it gives you a chance to try to start a warmed up engine on gas. It isn"t something I like to do often because it does seem like a rough way to get it running. I agree with rustred on how to do it though.
 
It has spark, just seems like not enough suction to pull the gas up into the manifold. I have always been told that the valves need to be adjusted after the tractor has warmed up. Do I adjust the valves the same way on a cold engine? Thank you guys for your help. You all are great. There arent many people around anymore who know how to work on these beasts.
 
(quoted from post at 16:14:49 03/11/12) It sounds like you are on the right track by checking the usual culprits--I am terrible at internet tractor repairs so I will leave that to the others.

As for starting on diesel I have done that to a WD-6 & a WD-9 just to get them running while trying to figure out some starting issues. I never harmed the bottom end, has anyone actually had that happen? It works better on a warm summer day than on a cool spring/fall day. Getting the engine running at least seems to loosen up an engine that has been sitting for a long time and then it gives you a chance to try to start a warmed up engine on gas. It isn"t something I like to do often because it does seem like a rough way to get it running. I agree with rustred on how to do it though.
Click to expand...

I'm not saying it will have a problem the first time, but I wouldn't farm with it like that.

The intake/exhaust valves in the head [i:59535d8894]should[/i:59535d8894] be adjusted warm, but you can do it cold. I had a guy show me how to do it the first time and he adjusted them .018 since we were doing it cold. (fresh start after a head job)
 
(quoted from post at 18:30:22 03/11/12) Yes (except to looser cold specification. Jim
Click to expand...

How many thou do you compensate? This guy said a loose .001 I suppose a normal .002 would be about the same.
 
I do not know the specs (hot or cold) they seem
elusive on the net, and are not in the tuneup data
to the left. Much depends on the materials and
lengths of the parts as we,, as the temperatures
they reach at operating conditions. The M and H are
.017 Hot and .020 cold. But the WD-( is a different
critter. Jim
 
Do you have gas at the drain on the bottom of the carb? I have had my float get stuck up and would not allow gas in. Just a tap on carb freeed it up.
 
valve setting is .017 hot, but set them to .019 if adjusting cold. there is so many checks to go through that you need a manual to follow. plus the decompression valves also. if you understand an engine and can read a manual anyone can work on them , but most are just are lost.
 
Have you tried some starting fluid in the air intake? These old gals love starting fluid. If it fires, that tells you your plugs are firing in the head under compression and your starting valves are opening. You can isolate your problem this way. As one other reply said they take a lot of choke to get started.
 
(quoted from post at 09:24:23 03/13/12)
I have put a chain on them and pull started them. They will start that way.
Click to expand...

I have the remains of a TD18 engine that was started that way. Emphasis on "remains". If it gets oil before compression it isn't so bad, but hitting diesel right away risks grinding out the crank bearings. It isn't a pretty sight what is happening.

Moral of the story is to turn it over for oil pressure before hitting it with compression.
 
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