756 Loader Question

flhr62 · Feb 18, 2012

Picked up the 756 last week that I had asked some questions about on here. Yesterday I aquired a JD 148 loader. I am going to have to do some bracket alterations, and I would like some input on the best way to mount it. I was thinking about bolting it to the clutch housing, then along the frame rails, then to the front of the tractor. Will this be suitable? I do not want to crack my clutch housing. I may also consider going to the back axle but I would prefer not to. The loader and mounts came off of a JD 4020. Have not had a chance to look at it enough to see if I can just drill new holes in the side plates or have to start from scratch. My plan at the moment is to do away with the square tubing that runs to the front and replace it with 1/2 inch steel to bolt to the frame rails. Open to any ideas.

Thanks,
Mark

DeltaRed · Feb 18, 2012

Fellow here has a 158 on a 706.Its mounted the same
way that it sits on the 4020.

rustyfarmall · Feb 18, 2012

(quoted from post at 07:34:47 02/18/12) Picked up the 756 last week that I had asked some questions about on here. Yesterday I aquired a JD 148 loader. I am going to have to do some bracket alterations, and I would like some input on the best way to mount it. I was thinking about bolting it to the clutch housing, then along the frame rails, then to the front of the tractor. Will this be suitable? I do not want to crack my clutch housing. I may also consider going to the back axle but I would prefer not to. The loader and mounts came off of a JD 4020. Have not had a chance to look at it enough to see if I can just drill new holes in the side plates or have to start from scratch. My plan at the moment is to do away with the square tubing that runs to the front and replace it with 1/2 inch steel to bolt to the frame rails. Open to any ideas.

Thanks,
Mark

Ask a John Deere dealer. He should be able to look in his book and tell you exactly what needs to be done, and maybe even get the mounting parts if any are needed.

Mark-Mi · Feb 18, 2012

I have a IH 2150 loader on my JD 4020. Not that it helps you any. Sometimes I think I should look for a JD loader to make it all JD.

Here is a picture of rear mount.

pete 23 · Feb 18, 2012

The frame rails on the 706 are much stronger than
the John Deere. I have seen a few fans hit the
shroud when they twisted or cracked those Deere
frames. Now that should raise some eyebrows.

TractormanNC · Feb 18, 2012

Just a thought that nobody has mentioned, Not familiar with the JD 158 loader, but if the loader has its own valve/joystick and DOES NOT run off the remotes, it will have a CLOSED center valve which will need to be converted to OPEN center or replaced with an open center valve.

flhr62 · Feb 18, 2012

(quoted from post at 16:31:12 02/18/12) Fellow here has a 158 on a 706.Its mounted the same
way that it sits on the 4020.

I don' see how that can be. From the inside front of the loader frame where it mounts to the front of the tractor back to the farthest mounting hole is 60 inches. From the front of my tractor back to the farthest hole in the clutch housing is 56 7/8 inches. I looked at some pictures and the brackets are mounted only on the frame rails on the 4020, I did not measure the farthest hole on my tractor's frame, but it is not even close to the correct distance, I am going to guess about 25 inches.

flhr62 · Feb 18, 2012

(quoted from post at 16:55:41 02/18/12)

(quoted from post at 07:34:47 02/18/12) Picked up the 756 last week that I had asked some questions about on here. Yesterday I aquired a JD 148 loader. I am going to have to do some bracket alterations, and I would like some input on the best way to mount it. I was thinking about bolting it to the clutch housing, then along the frame rails, then to the front of the tractor. Will this be suitable? I do not want to crack my clutch housing. I may also consider going to the back axle but I would prefer not to. The loader and mounts came off of a JD 4020. Have not had a chance to look at it enough to see if I can just drill new holes in the side plates or have to start from scratch. My plan at the moment is to do away with the square tubing that runs to the front and replace it with 1/2 inch steel to bolt to the frame rails. Open to any ideas.

Thanks,
Mark

Click to expand...

Ask a John Deere dealer. He should be able to look in his book and tell you exactly what needs to be done, and maybe even get the mounting parts if any are needed.

Called JD today, he said the only brackets he could get were for JD tractors

flhr62 · Feb 18, 2012

(quoted from post at 22:19:08 02/18/12) Just a thought that nobody has mentioned, Not familiar with the JD 158 loader, but if the loader has its own valve/joystick and DOES NOT run off the remotes, it will have a CLOSED center valve which will need to be converted to OPEN center or replaced with an open center valve.

I thought that may be the case, thanks for the conformation. I have not decided how I am going to plumb it yet. The tractor has 4 sets of remotes. 2 in the back and 1 under the right and left platform. I was thinking maybe a new valve and joystick going to the remotes under the platform. Will that work O.K. and if so would I have to tie the levers on the tractor back?

armand tatro · Feb 18, 2012

Like Delta Red sayes the 4020 and the 756 are designed with side rails for mounting implements to. John Deere designed the 148 loader with sq. tubing so DO NOT CHANGE OR ALTER the main frame of the loader! I would only alter the holes in the mounting if needed. I would definatly add a frame to allow the rear axel to let the rear axel housing do the pushing as the older loaders were designed. I have used a i48 on a 4430 and it is an excellent loader as designed but if I was doing a lot of heavy pushing I would want some of that stress on the rear axel housing but that is my thoughts.

flhr62 · Feb 18, 2012

(quoted from post at 01:15:32 02/19/12) Like Delta Red sayes the 4020 and the 756 are designed with side rails for mounting implements to. John Deere designed the 148 loader with sq. tubing so DO NOT CHANGE OR ALTER the main frame of the loader! I would only alter the holes in the mounting if needed. I would definatly add a frame to allow the rear axel to let the rear axel housing do the pushing as the older loaders were designed. I have used a i48 on a 4430 and it is an excellent loader as designed but if I was doing a lot of heavy pushing I would want some of that stress on the rear axel housing but that is my thoughts.

The only way it is close to fitting without changing the frame of the loader is to mount it to the clutch housing. Is that a suitable place to mount it?

756 Loader Question

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Mark-Mi

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pete 23

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