59 IH 560 Purchase

I am looking at a 1959 560 Diesel. I need a second tractor to go along with my John Deere 720 D. I went and drove it this morning and it seemed to start well. (plugged in 50 deg) Had a few oil leaks around the pan and one injector. Looked like a few drops coming out of the blow by tube. It was in its everyday cloths. He said the TA worked but when i pulled it back in 4th gear the tractor seemed to freewheel and when it came to an incline it just slowed to almost a crawl. It seemed to put out a lot of white smoke when started and sounded like there was a faint miss in the engine, but that seemed to clear up the more it warmed up.
I guess my questions are will I get hurt on this thing if I can get it bought for around $2000?
Thanks for any input.
TJ
 
The tractor may very well have been started prior to your
arrival. Key on these tractors is that the glow plugs all work
properly, it has the proper gauge cables in good repair, and
well maintained batteries. If you have all of that those old
tractors will start very well. It sounds as if the TA is out which
depending on what is wrong and your ability to do the repairs
may not be that big of a deal. What kind of oil pressure does
it carry after warmed up? If it has good oil pressure and no
knocks or misses after being warmed up a little blowby would
not concern me. Does the tractor have a wide front? 2 pt
hitch or standard drawbar? What size tires and what
condition? A good straight 560 diesel with good motor and
TA, fast hitch and good tires would fetch around $4000 in my
area. If it has a lot of issues I probably wouldn't give $1500
for it.
 
It had good oil pressure, very strait tin, narrow front, two point, and 15.5 38 tires.
Just worried about the TA and slight engine miss. tach showed under 3000 hrs and worked but doubt it is correct...
 
If the TA is slipping,you are going to have to tear into that.I believe you might have the roller clutch/sprag on the TA that needs work????Guys on here know WAY more than I do about TAs,Hopefully they will"chime in" on this?
 
I have one of those tractors and love it to death,starts hard,motor was redone by cert shop,runs great tese tractors are cold blooded,need to leave glow plugs on for 5 minutes or so in cold weather,they will skip till worm 30 degree day could take 20 minutes to warm up,slight skip will go away after warm,white smoke is very common, t/a could be out of ajust,if you replace it is usally a $2000 repair $2000 is fair around here
 
If it slowed to 2/3 of its Direct speed that is good. If (as you indicate) it went way slow, the ramp and rollers are out in the TA. It will work for you in direct, but the TA is a very powerful feature, and is not a service issue. Many last for the life of the tractor even used often under full load! (I have one) Jim
 
The best way to check a TA is to put it in high gear
with the torque lever pulled back with the engine
running a little higher than idle and let out the
clutch.If it is slipping you should be able to tell
by how quick it grabs ahold.
 
The tractor will freewheel with the TA lever pulled back if there is no load and the tractor is headed downhill. It will also freewheel on level ground with no load if you get a head of steam built up in direct.

If you can get it headed UPhill on an incline, stop the tractor and let the clutch halfway out with the TA lever ahead and your foot off the brakes. The tractor should "stick" in place on the hill and not roll backwards.

The speed difference between direct and TA seems quite dramatic, especially if your not used to it.
 
(quoted from post at 16:10:04 11/05/11) He said the TA worked but when i pulled it back in 4th gear the tractor seemed to freewheel and when it came to an incline it just slowed to almost a crawl. TJ

Sounds like you were on level ground with no load when you pulled the TA back... it would "freewheel" until the tractor slowed about 1/3 or you came to an "incline" like you said... test it with a load, even if it's just going up a steep hill.
 
Thanks for all the suggestions. Yes I was on level ground when I was testing the TA. I will try it again with a load.
 
One more question. Is there a regular drawbar that you can get for these things?? All it had was one that was hooked into the 2 point.
 
The drawbar from an M, SM, or SMTA will bolt on
after removing all the FH components. THe FH drawbar
is fine and functionsl if the worn pins and pivots
are drilled larger and repinned to be tight. THe
down pressure pin must also be installed to limit
lifting the FH system if slowing a wagon. Jim
 
Would one off a 450 work also? If I purchase this thing I was thinking about planting with it this next spring and did not know if the one on the fast hitch would work(JD 7000 4 row).
 
A standard Loop drawbar will work from an M to the
450 series. (same)
I recommend using the FH system as it is avery good
system. TIghten it by reaming the holes and
installing slightly larger pins, and it will be
ridged enough. Jim
 

We sell tractor parts! We have the parts you need to repair your tractor - the right parts. Our low prices and years of research make us your best choice when you need parts. Shop Online Today.

Back
Top