Timing on a Farmall 560 Deisel Tractor

gbpond

New User
This message is a reply to an archived post by pete 23 on May 20, 2011 at 18:15:24.
The original subject was "Re: Timing on a Farmall 560 Deisel Tractor".

I have not been able to work on my 560 until recently. I had surgery on my right arm and could not do anything. Today I did as suggested and cracked the injector lines and pulled the tractor. I got seepage at the injectors, tightened the lines and pulled again. I get black smoke out of the exhaust but the engine will not stay started when I push in the clutch. Any suggestions why it will not stay running?
 
I don't remember your question at that time, but if you had pump off, with window on side of pump off, turn engine to 3 degrees before top dead center and the lines on pump should line up for static timing. This is with cyl one on compression stroke. Pull a glow plug out of number one if you are not sure it is on number one and feel for compression as you turn engine. I have a crank but using starter to get close and then using fan works. If that is ok, make sure all glow plugs are working, return line is not restricted and intake or exhaust are not restricted. There is automatic advance timing also but you have to have it running and a window or timing light to check and adjust that.
 
Got the fuel injector pump on, tried to pull start and all I get is a blueish white smoke and when you push in the clutch it stops. Any ideas??
 
If you have it timed correctly and it will still not start when pulling it, you may have bad fuel. I was helping a neighbor work on a 1066, he was putting a new TA assembly in it and the tractor had only sit for a month while he was getting it all together and then split it and put it back together. We tried everything to get it started, I used my tractor to pull him around for a long time and all we could ever get was smoke but would not run. For the heck of it, we went and got a fresh can of fuel and stuck the battery charger on it while we were gone. When we got back we drained the tank of fuel, and put the fresh fuel in and purged everything of the old fuel. When we tightened all the lines back down and turned the key over, it cranked right up and ran smooth as ever. The diesel fuel had gone bad, and it really shouldn't have, but who know.

Also, the early diesel engines like the D282 rely heavily on the glow plugs to start easily, so if those aren't working, it is not going to want to start very good either.
 
To your first question, have you checked that they are actually working yet,with an ohm meter or test light? To the second question, number 1 is in the front.
 
(quoted from post at 16:46:21 08/13/11) Are you talking about the glow plugs, checking with an ohm meter?

Yes, you read the resistance on each plug and then you can isolate which GPs are bad. These engines LOVE glowplugs. Most won't cold start below 70-80 without them.
 

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