Corroded battery cable

Opinions/recommends, please.

A few days ago I replaced the battery end of the 7' cable to starter on my Cub. The heavy cable was very green corroded on exposed areas, thus I cut about 2" off the end. Still corrosion between each winding of the little copper wires. I opened them up about an inch and cleaned them; but I could still see green stuff further into the wiring/casing.

Before cleaning, the Cub was weak in cranking. After cleaning and new end, the Cub fires right up - extremely well, time-after-time and after sitting overnight.

Still, I'm wondering if this could be part of my lack of charging problem? Any ideas as to what I should do?

When I find a cable in that condition I replace it. I have yet found anything that will totally stop the corrosion. If its as bad as you say it is its not carrying full load.

Hi equeen: You should post a picture for all who have NOT seen bad cables up close. Makes a believer out of most who ignor cables and convert to 12 volts or electronic ignition thinking cables can't make that much difference in starting. ag

Remind us what charging diagnosis has been done, and what type of system it has, Alt or gen. Jim

Remind us what charging diagnosis has been done, and what type of system it has, Alt or gen. Jim

Photo taken with flash and doesn't show true extent of "green".

Photo taken without flash to get better "picture of green".

The corrosion is around each strand of the wire but does not penetrate into the strands. However, my thinking is that current should go thru and around each strand getting the effect of a large single strand cable.

Nice!
You could cut the cable insulation until you find bright shiny wire. Then use a crimp on connecter (soldered onto each wire) and shrink tubing to add new same size cable as an extender. Jim
John T charging analysis

It is a 6v gen w/cutout relay system on 50 Cub.

The electrical system is well grounded (starter, gen, relay, bat cable).

Wiring has been checked against John Nordhoff's troubleshooting guide.

System does increase volts across bat posts when I ground the generator field post to case then jump a wire from the Cutout Relay's BAT terminal to its GEN terminal. In my test, with battery not fully charged, it increased volts across bat from 5.8v with engine running to 6.2 with engine running.

The strands must be reduced in cross section to increase its resistance. At low voltage, and high amperage it is section area that counts. If the strands are basically very little smaller, the conductivity will not be off by much. From the look of the inside of the clamp, that could have been substantial resistance there. Poor connection between the strands and the clamp can also be a major resistance. Best of luck.

I'm guessing there's approx 50 little copper wires in that strand. Me solder each of the little wires to approx 50 other little wires I find somewhere. Surely you jest? Anyway, I'm laughing at myself. I'm cheap, but I'll find the $$ for a new cable I'm a-guessing. No telling where I'd find that clean shiny copper up the cable underneath the casing. Maybe 82" from the other cable end. Oops.

I know you joke!
The crimp connector is placed on the cleaned end of the bundle of wires, then crimped, then soldered in mass, then shrink tubing (big) is placed on the whole assembly, to seal it.
Welding cable from a welding repair shop (used, but too short for welding) is a great source for a total replacement, (or for a splice and shrink tubing!). Jim

If it starts good electricity is getting through and its probably not the cause of your charging problem.

Right you are. I just paid $50+ to find out that a new battery cable had no effect - good or bad. I'm now back to square one, shaking my head in disbelief.

equeen, Did you clean the battery posts and other cable end. From the picture the posts & other cable needed a lot of cleaning.Did you try cleaning all termanals on gen.& regulater?
How old is the battery? Old battery sometimes get to the point that they will not take a full charge.

Bat born Feb 2011.
Cleaned with drill-mounted wire wheel reg & gen terminals/posts and grounding areas on reg and gen.

Replaced both cable ends to battery posts with shiny new ones and thoroughly cleaned battery posts and cable wires to cable ends before replacing with new cable ends.

Finally, went to IH and purchased a new 7' cable and installed it. No change. Still cranks fast and smooth - but no charging of battery.

Recharge battery with typical battery charger when it drains. Charges back up to 6.25-6.30 volts across posts.

Looks like the hot cable on my fertilizer truck. I was glad I picked up new terminals when I got the new battery for it. It's a little short now, but still starting the old 366.

If it's starting the tractor OK, I'd leave it alone, it's not the charging problem if it can carry enough current to start the tractor.

Cleaning copper wire ends clean can be done easily enough by pouring boiling water on the exposed wire end (NOT on the battery). Soldering all the wires together as a single solid wire is not recommended. The point of multi strand wires is to increase the surface area of the conductor, i.e. copper wire. This allows greater current flow. Still wondering about the lack of charge. If the wires are all good to the starter the starter will work. If there is a wire problem it must be between the battery and the generator or between the battery and the cutout or between the generator and the cutout. Perhaps check the resistance across the cutout when the contacts are closed, i.e. allowing current to flow through. If the cutout is working and the wiring is all good then you are almost certainly looking for a generator fault. Check the brushes and then check the armature and field coils. These two tests may help:
1). Always check that wiring and instruments (ammeter / voltmeter) are in good order and operate correctly.
2). Ensure that all connections are good, tight and clean.
3). Ensure that the battery is in a satisfactory condition and that the connections to it are tight and clean, especially the connection to Earth/Ground. There are basic tests to check generator operation:

Test 1): Disconnect leads from generator. Connect one lead of a Voltmeter to the Main (or D) terminal and the other lead to Earth. Start the engine. Run the generator up to approx. 3,000 rpm.
Result:
a).Voltmeter reads 2-4 Volts = armature and brush connections OK (6 and 12 volt systems)
b). Voltmeter reads 0 Volts = Check brushes are in good condition and make good contact with commutator. If brushes are good and reading remains at zero, the armature is defective.
c). Voltmeter reading rises with engine speed = short circuit between Main (or D) and Field (or F) terminals. Field coils defective.

Test 2): Disconnect leads from generator. Connect Main (or D) and Field (or F) terminals to each other. You can use an ammeter to do this. (The ammeter should read no more than two 2 amps. Connect one lead of a Voltmeter to the Main (or D) terminal and the other lead to Earth. Start the engine. Gradually increase engine to a fast idle speed.
Result:
a). Rising volts with rising speed and full scale reading at fast idle = generator is in good order.
b). 2-4 volts as engine speed increases = open circuit in field coils. Field coils defective. (6 and 12 volt systems)
c). 0 volts = grounded field coils or field connection. Repair connection and/or replace field coils.