pressurized or non-pressurized radiator?

bmagee · Mar 3, 2011

I have searched the web trying to determine if my radiator on my H is pressurized or non-pressurized. The cap currently on it is a non-pressure type, but my dad said to his knowledge the radiator is original (1949) and it used to have the winged type cap on it because he used it to align the rows when planting corn.

Will a non-pressure cap work? will it work properly? any problems? how should I really tell the difference?

Any help is appreciated

Janicholson · Mar 3, 2011

The non pressurized cap is way different than a pressure cap. The non pressure cap is retained like a gas cap. It cams under lips on the inside of the filler neck.
The pressure cap is identical to those found on automobiles of the 50s, and 60s. It has a spring and gasket that go into the neck with an atmospheric valve in the center of that. (lets air into the radiator when the temp drops back to ambient.) The cap has external tabs that cam into external ridges on the top of the neck.
If your cap is fitting correctly, and it is an inside tab and lip, it is a non pressurized radiator (even if it is on a tractor that had the pressurized system, it is a radiator that should not have pressure in it)
If it is an external tab and flange cap (as your dad seems to think) then it is supposed to have a 7 pound pressure cap on it.
If the existing cap has no spring or gasket, and or no atmospheric valve, it could be that someone modified it to be non pressurized.
The correct cap is available from many sources.
Jim

bmagee · Mar 3, 2011

I just went back out and looked close, the cap fits fine and the tabs are on the inside, so it is a non-pressurized? Does this seem correct for a 1949? Is it OK to have this type on it?

The tractor was out of our family for a few years, I am wondering if someone has put a different radiator on it.

Janicholson · Mar 3, 2011

If it does not overheat, it is just fine. The pressurized radiator is (IIRC) not OEM on that tractor. If it works leave it alone. The only issue is that the non pressurized radiators cannot take being pressurized, they have flat sided top tank and components that will bulge and begin to leak if pressure is applied! Jim

CNKS · Mar 3, 2011

49's had a pressurized radiator, the change was in 1942 Your radiator has been changed. It's ok, it will push water out sooner. Pressurized radiators can withstand a higher temperature. If your tractor has antifreeze the boiling point is higher, I don't remember the number. However, if your tractor has the cold-run-hot gauge it was meant for a pressurized radiator and will not have the correct range for non-pressurized. Working range for non-pressurized was 130-160, for pressurized 170-220.

NDS · Mar 4, 2011

Quick and simple way to tell which radiator you have is to try your gas tank cap on it, if gas caps fits it is non pressure.

rustyfarmall · Mar 4, 2011

(quoted from post at 06:06:17 03/04/11) Quick and simple way to tell which radiator you have is to try your gas tank cap on it, if gas caps fits it is non pressure.

Exactly. The gas cap and the radiator cap will interchange.

bmagee · Mar 4, 2011

is there an advantage or dis-advantage of having one over the other?

sflem849 · Mar 4, 2011

(quoted from post at 20:11:24 03/03/11)...Pressurized radiators can withstand a higher temperature...

This will let the tractor have a wider operating range. Plus it won't over heat as easy.

bmagee · Mar 4, 2011

Just to make sure Im clear - it's best to have a pressurized like it did originally beacuse it will handle hotter temperatures. For example, a parade in July - it will not over heat as easy.

sflem849 · Mar 4, 2011

(quoted from post at 12:02:33 03/04/11) Just to make sure Im clear - it's best to have a pressurized like it did originally beacuse it will handle hotter temperatures. For example, a parade in July - it will not over heat as easy.

No, it could do a parade in July easily. If you wanted to drop 2-16s into the asphalt and try and roll it over you would still be alright, but the needle would move. If yours is like any of mine it takes A LOT to get the needle to get well into the normal range.

rustyfarmall · Mar 4, 2011

(quoted from post at 12:02:33 03/04/11) Just to make sure Im clear - it's best to have a pressurized like it did originally beacuse it will handle hotter temperatures. For example, a parade in July - it will not over heat as easy.

I've got a 1940 H with a 6' woods belly mower. The H has the original, non-pressurized radiator, and even on the hottest days in July and August the temperature gauge just barely gets into the "run" zone.

The best radiator for your tractor is the one that gets the job done and does not leak, and you've already got that one. 'Course, if you really do want to put the later style radiator on it, I would be more than happy to sell you a brand new one.

PeteTheRookie · Mar 4, 2011

I do not know if it is supposed to be pressurized or not but with old cars I usually go the low or no pressure route. The way I figure it is if it is pressurized to say 15-16 lbs it is going to leak somewhere faster then if it is not pressurized.
For example my 2002 GM 3.4 v6 suffers from the design flaw where the intake manifold gasket leaks even after being fixed under recall. With the coolant pressurized, coolant gets in the motor oil and toasts the bearings. Not pressurized I get a little oil in the coolant that floats to top of overflow. Clean it out occasionally. Been running like that since about 75K and its pushing 110K now.

Pete

pressurized or non-pressurized radiator?

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