Pertronex ignition - should I spend the money?

I have a International 504 utility that will start and run about 30 seconds then quit and will not start again for several hours. This happens when the tempatures are below 20 degrees. When above those temps it starts and runs fine. The points are new and gaped correctly. I have determined that it is not a fuel problem.
I was considering the Pertronex ignition, coil, plugs and wires. but at nearly $200.oo for the package is it worth it? I was reading some older posts about the solid state ignitions and John T brought up a good point about the electronic ignitions for older tractors, they are not as heavy duty as the auto systems and they will fail sooner. So what is wrong with my old system?

Sounds like a coil or condenser problem. Although if it starts and keeps running when it's warm I would still blame fuel mixture.

I have the pertronex electronic ignition on 2 tractors, a SMTA and an older JD430 and it is great. You never have to worry about keeping points adjusted. With the cost of a set of points and condenser at around 20 bucks it pays for itself. It isn't any different though than having a properly set ignition. I don't think it is the only solution to your problem though by replacing everything it will probably solve the problem. You may have a new condenser but I would try the another one, or may be the coil although usually it takes longer for them to heat up than 30 seconds. Are you sure it isn't fuel? I would thing about ice in a fuel line that partially plugs it. when it sits enough fuel goes through to start, but only to run a short time.

(quoted from post at 07:43:58 02/02/11) I have a International 504 utility that will start and run about 30 seconds then quit and will not start again for several hours. This happens when the tempatures are below 20 degrees. When above those temps it starts and runs fine. The points are new and gaped correctly. I have determined that it is not a fuel problem.
I was considering the Pertronex ignition, coil, plugs and wires. but at nearly $200.oo for the package is it worth it? I was reading some older posts about the solid state ignitions and John T brought up a good point about the electronic ignitions for older tractors, they are not as heavy duty as the auto systems and they will fail sooner. So what is wrong with my old system?

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If it starts and runs just fine with the temps above +20°. then it should run equally as well with the temps below +20°. Keep that $200 in your pocket and start inspecting other items. Might be time to clean and service the fuel sediment bowl, the oil bath air cleaner, maybe even take a good look into the fuel tank and see what might be floating around in there.

do you have the proper weight oil in the engine and hydraulic system? Incorrect oil weight can kill in engine when it becomes very cold.


Andrew

I just dont see an elec ignition as the cure for the problem you describe. Id try a new condensor first and possibly a coil only if alllllllllllllll else in the ignition system firsts checks out okay. If it has an external ballast resistor insure its NOT opening up!!!!

I wont get into the carb and fuel delivery and sediment bowl issues much as you asked more about ignition, although those could be the problem.

Most who install elec ignition report improved starting and idling chaRACTERISTICS although I doubt if you gain much if any in HP. The ones on modified older tractors are NOT the quality and energy as modern automotive high energy systems, they can go hundreds of thousands of miles and never cause problems, plugs and wires, of course, not withstanding.

RIGHT AFTER SHE QUITS RUNNING ID PULL THE COIL OR PLUG WIRES N TURN HER ON N CRANK HER TO SEE IF SHES FIRING OR NOT ???????? That will show if its a fuel versus an ignition issue. Also see if the carbs bowl is still full right when that happens to look for fuel delivery and tank and sediment bowl type problems. Of course, if shes NOT firing then you can look at ignition issues first, easy things like condensor or ballast (if it has one).

In case of no fire and you have already tried a new condensor or perhaps a coil and youre sure the points are okay, run my Ignition Troubleshooting procedure tgo help diagnose the problem. Heck Id even try to hot wire it first in case its an ignitgion switch problem!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Right when she quits use a test lamp to insure theres hot battery voltage present on the coils input (NOT to distributor) side

Does it have an external Ballast Resistor???? If so it could be going bad and opening up!!!!

Heres my Ignition Troubleshooting

http://www.ytmag.com/cgi-bin/viewit.cgi?bd=farmall&th=5745

John T
John Ts Ignition Troubleshooting

I had a gost of a problem with my allis chalmers CA. didnt change with temp. but some days it would run great some wouldent start at all. I found that the shaft for the distributor was preety loose moved enough to completly miss the points. if it "wanted" to. not saying thats the problem but check it any how.

I've spent the money to convert 3 tractors and it has saved my a lot of maintenance. However, that may not fix your problem.

Agree electronic ignition will probably not fix your issue. But I am a fan, I put one on my 140 in 2004. I used to go through a distributor cap every winter. I still get my caps the same place, but they don't fail before I change them (every two years) any more. I can't remember futzing with the distributor once since it's been on--used to be a regular thing, especially in winter.

Put a bottle of fuel line deicer in the gas tank. Let set for 5 minutes.

Run tractor. If tractor stops do the spark check previously suggested.

I'll make a comment about the fuel. Does your tractor have the fuel shut off selenoid on the carb? That may not be allowing enough fuel thru
and causes the tractor to die. I'm having similar trouble with a 756. I've replaced the selenoid once before and trouble was gone. They will run til the fuel runs out and won't let anymore in until the tractor has set awhile.
You didn't say if after several hours of setting that it would stay running or do the 30 seconds and die thing again? Sounds like it's running on the fuel that has gotten past the selenoid -if it has one.
Wish You Good Luck and Fast Repair!
Posts by others will solve it if not a fuel problem.

Is this like an ignition kit or what? Where would it be purchased!?

(quoted from post at 13:30:02 02/03/11) Is this like an ignition kit or what? Where would it be purchased!?

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Right here on this site is where I got mine:

http://www.ytmag.com/cgi-bin/store/...;md=140&cat=Electrical System&r=mcats

(quoted from post at 12:40:54 02/03/11)

(quoted from post at 13:30:02 02/03/11) Is this like an ignition kit or what? Where would it be purchased!?

Click to expand...

Right here on this site is where I got mine:

http://www.ytmag.com/cgi-bin/store/...;md=140&cat=Electrical System&r=mcats

Click to expand...

No kidding. I didn't know that's what it was. We sell those at my work, for a few bucks cheaper as well.