redFarmallboy
Member
What do you use to seal the inside of a gas tank after cleaning it out and removing any loose scale? There is some light rust on the bottom of a tank that I want to seal.
- Thread starter redFarmallboy
- Start date
I was told by the manufactorer of RedKote, that if your tank has baffles in it dont waste your money on trying to seal it, because you can only seal one side of the baffle, and not all areas of the tank will seal due to the baffles. Now I dont know how true this is, that came from the chemist at RedKote (manufactor gas tank sealer). he told me to get about 100 1/4" nuts (count going in, and out)fill tank half way w/water&soap, (istrapped my tank to another tractor tire and rode around for a while), empty do a 4-1 mix of sulfuric acid and water, let sit for couple of hours and check if clean empty out and rinse out w/acetone. if you do feel the need to seal the tank use redkote (1can does 15gal vs kreme-you need 2 cans) hope this helps
I was told by the manufactorer of RedKote, that if your tank has baffles in it dont waste your money on trying to seal it, because you can only seal one side of the baffle, and not all areas of the tank will seal due to the baffles. Now I dont know how true this is, that came from the chemist at RedKote (manufactor gas tank sealer). he told me to get about 100 1/4" nuts (count going in, and out)fill tank half way w/water&soap, (istrapped my tank to another tractor tire and rode around for a while), empty do a 4-1 mix of sulfuric acid and water, let sit for couple of hours and check if clean empty out and rinse out w/acetone. if you do feel the need to seal the tank use redkote (1can does 15gal vs kreme-you need 2 cans) hope this helps
Ohiohillbilly
Member
I used the tank sealer from TP Tools in Canfield Ohio. It is a POR-15 product. I am very happy with the results on my Farmall 400. The guy there said that
if you follow the instructions to the T it will work. It is a pain in the butt and is about a week long process. I wish I would have done 2 tanks though. There is enough sealer to do at least 2 tanks.
http://www.tptools.com/Product.aspx?display_id=1856
if you follow the instructions to the T it will work. It is a pain in the butt and is about a week long process. I wish I would have done 2 tanks though. There is enough sealer to do at least 2 tanks.
http://www.tptools.com/Product.aspx?display_id=1856
I use "slosh" comp'd ( that's what they call it) used by aircraft maintenance people. I usually clean the tank as well as possible, rinse it with water, let it dry thoroughly, plug the outlets and then dump in the comp'. Then carefully rotate the tank to spread the sealer, then drain out all the excess and save it for the next tank. This is simple to use and has worked well for me. Most any airplane mechanic can provide you with a source.
glennster
Well-known Member
they sell the fuel tank liner on this site for 28.95 per quart, each quart will do a 12 gallon tank. i have done a few tanks, it does a good job, but it takes a while with the cleaning, drying ect. the last couple of tanks i had a local radiator shop do, cost around 125 dollars. they boiled the tanks out and installed the liners. a lot less hassle, and well worth the money. i figure they liner cost them about 60 dollars for two quarts, the labor was only 65 dollars.
rustyfarmall
Well-known Member
I wouldn't worry about using a sealer. If any of that light rust does come loose, it will be caught in the sediment bowl. You may need to clean out the sediment bowl 2 or 3 times, but after that you will have no more problems.
Dave H (MI)
Well-known Member
Everybody has a right to their opinion, but I would NOT run it unsealed with just the sediment bowl. You are betting a lot that the bowl will catch enough of the light loose stuff and that you will not end up with your carb getting a lot of dirt in the various small passages where it matters. Take off your gas line and install a temporary rubber line and in-line filter suitable for gravity systems until you have gone thru a few tanks and feel that your gas is reasonably clean. Then put your actual line back on and fall back on the sediment bowl. OR, if you feel there will be a continuing problem, install a filter in the original gas line. Since I started doing this I seem to be having a lot less carb trouble.
Hi,
I have used the POR 15 tank cleaning/sealing products for a couple of things (including my 460 tank). I have been very pleased with the results. Not the cheapest option, but seems to be very durable and permanent. Just make sure you have enough to do the whole tank in one pour (I think I used a quart for my 460).
I have used the POR 15 tank cleaning/sealing products for a couple of things (including my 460 tank). I have been very pleased with the results. Not the cheapest option, but seems to be very durable and permanent. Just make sure you have enough to do the whole tank in one pour (I think I used a quart for my 460).
james rumph
Member
I had one done ware they cut the tank open in the bottom and sand blast all the inside.
They then weld it up and metal finish it so you can't tell. It is then washed out with some solvent and coated with a special sealer.
It is then put in a oven for several hours to cure the sealer.
They stand behind this process for the life of what ever it goes in.
Not the cheapest way but you will never have a issue again. Repainting of the tank is required that is the only down side.
They then weld it up and metal finish it so you can't tell. It is then washed out with some solvent and coated with a special sealer.
It is then put in a oven for several hours to cure the sealer.
They stand behind this process for the life of what ever it goes in.
Not the cheapest way but you will never have a issue again. Repainting of the tank is required that is the only down side.
Actually the RedKote works great, but you need to knock out the scale first, then (because of the baffles) thin the Kote to 50/50 with MEK. Plug the tank bottom and pour in the RedKote mix, slosh it around and drain. Let dry 1hr and do it again. Now force air through the tank for 48hrs. I"ve sealed two with no issues. The key is to drain well, to prevent the R-K from puddling up inside.
Two thin coats is the key!
Two thin coats is the key!
this is to James Rumph you said you could send the specs to shave the head on a cub 154 that i asked a couple months back thx pheel
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