spark plug wires: ready made or cut your own

Al L. in Wisc.

Well-known Member
I have an as yet, unopened box of plug wires from Fleet~Farm ~$15.00 for my Farmall 460. The wires are the cut length, crimp ends, etc. Using them before they seemed ok on a "47 2N. I"m sure a dealer, and I know ebay ($29.00) has some IH pre-made. Any of you folks have good/bad results w/what you use? I tried several searches in the archives and got zero results; maybe something wrong w/the system. Thanks in advance for informative input. Snow's a comin'!
 
I bought a set that was branded Tisco and put them on my M and it runs like a top. I don't know for sure but I would almost bet that the ones from your local IH dealer came from the same place as the set that you have now. I would just put them on and hope for the best.
 
I've bought a couple complete ready to install sets from OEM Tractor Parts for tractors I was restoring and was very happy with every aspect of them. They had boots with IH molded on them and the lengths were were correct for the tractor. Everything fit very well and tight and both tractors run exceptionally well. They were made from real stranded wire but don't recall if it was copper or stainless. I never did like the kind you put together with the "bend over the wire" type connectors for universal applications. I believe they were $36 for the set, Hal.
 
Al, I put a set of those make your own on my 340 and had no problem with them although the set I was replacing were also home made and quite corroded. It made a big difference, and although I changed the plugs, points, cap and rotor I think the wires were the real cause of my problems. It made a huge difference in how it started in cold weather. Good Luck with the new iron. Lyle
 
I bought the make your own set and don't like them. The boots don't always stay on the dist., the boots stick straight out from the dist & plugs, and a couple of the crimp ends seemed flaky. But they have worked for 3 years.

Napa has a rack of factory made plug wires of various lengths with 90 degree elbows at the plugs. With a centered distributor, you don't need very long ones. Seems like the shorter ones were about $5 each. Probably a couple each of 4", & 6", & 8" may do it.
 
I bought bulk copper core wire, and all the fixin's from Napa. I make my own. I don't see why the pre-made sets wouldn't be fine as long as they are copper core.

IMHO
 
I have posted a couple times on this subject.

The make-your-own sets are GARBAGE GARBAGE GARBAGE!!!

The wire is super-stiff with heavy plastic insulation.

The contacts are flimsy copper things that you need to poke into the ends of the super-stiff wire. I have yet to successfully get one to poke in completely. Usually the pokers just fold over.

TSC has started selling nice pre-made sets for the 4-cylinder tractors. If you poke around NAPA long enough you can find a premade set for an older car that works well.

I posted the part numbers for the two NAPA sets I found that contain useable wires a while back.
 
(quoted from post at 06:32:01 12/03/10) I have posted a couple times on this subject.

The make-your-own sets are GARBAGE GARBAGE GARBAGE!!!

The wire is super-stiff with heavy plastic insulation.

The contacts are flimsy copper things that you need to poke into the ends of the super-stiff wire. I have yet to successfully get one to poke in completely. Usually the pokers just fold over.

TSC has started selling nice pre-made sets for the 4-cylinder tractors. If you poke around NAPA long enough you can find a premade set for an older car that works well.

I posted the part numbers for the two NAPA sets I found that contain useable wires a while back.

The correct method is to strip back enough of the insulation to allow you to poke some bare wire through the hole where that little tab is, and then solder it in place. Another method, not quite as good, is to fold the bare wire back over the insulation and then capture it under under the terminal when you crimp it in place. Do it right and you will be met with success every time.
 

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