Poor spark

I recently purchased a new coil , points, rotor and condensor to try and get more spark and that is failing. I have the points gapped like they are supposed to be and all wires hopefully in place. I also made sure that the # 1 piston is up when the rotor is turned to it on the cap. My problem is do I need a resister for this coil, there was nothing there except broken plastic. The wires were where they are know. If you look close you can see the broken plastic. I bought these parts at TSC (Tractor Supply Co). I was told there would be a resistor on the coil...I didnt see one. Any suggestions? Thanks

Looks like a 560? First thing to check is coil wiring [primary]. Make sure the + terminal on the coil is connected to the lead coming out of the wiring loom. The negative terminal should be connected to wire going to the terminal on the side of the distributor.
If the spark is still weak, try a new [or the old] condenser in the distributor. I fought a new condenser for 2 hours in the pickup one day, only to find a bad "new" condenser.

You ask "Do you need a resistor" heres the answer assuming its a 12 volt tractor.

Iffffffff its a 6 volt coil YES you need an external series voltage dropping (12 to 6) ballast resistor or else it will get very very hot and the points will burn up prematurely.

Ifffffffff its a coil designed for use at nominal 12 volts DO NOT USE AN EXTERNAL BALLAST or the spark will be weak. Some folks call those "internally ballasted"

Iffffffff the coil is labeled "12 volts" or "12 volts NOT for use with ballast" or "12 volts NO ballast required" its designed for use on a 12 volt tractor with no ballast resistor.

Ifffffffff the coil is labeled "12 volts requires ballast" its more in reality like a 6 volt coil and indeed needs the ballast or it will overheat.

"Many" coils designed for use on 6 volt tractors have a primary reisistance between the + and - terminals of around 1.25 to under 2 ohms....."Many" coils designed for use on 12 volts tractors with no ballast have a primary resistance in the 2.5 to 3.5 ohms range. Thats so the points dont have to switch too much over 4 amps or else they burn up too fast.

If the spark is weak I suspect points or gap then next a bad condensor while a bad coil is way down the list. Wire the coil to match polarity as posted below i.e for Neg ground the coils - wires to distributor

John T

From the looks of your picture I am betting you have a 12 volt coil which would explain what they told you about a resistor. They most likely meant the resistance is inside the coil by having more primary windings and is therefore a straight 12 volt coil. What you should have for a good hot spark on that model tractor is a 6 volt coil(it may be marked 12 R which means for use with an external resistor on a 12 volt system) or it may just say six volts. Anyway, you need an external resistor(ballast) connected in series with the coil. Then that other wire I think I am seeing on your picture(white one) goes to the starter solenoiod ign terminal , then to pos side of ign coil and when you have the starter engaged you will have full battery voltage to the coil bypassing the resistor for starting purposes. During starting you voltage (with good wiring and battery and starter will normally run about ten and half volts so you can you have much less available to the coil if you don't have a bypass system. Also, if the ign wire to switch is as bad looking as the rest of the wires on that tractor you may need to do some rewiring. I always cut off that extra spark plug wire length also to reduce resistance and tidy things up a bit.