560 gas dies under load.

Was plowing yesterday and after about an hour of it my 560 just died. Let it rest for about 5 minutes and she started back up but acted like she would die if I put any load on her at all. Got it up to the garage, checked fuel spark etc. Noticed that my 6volt resistor was extremly hot. Changed it. (tractor is converted 12v -grd) Went to use it today, started right up drove fine...1 pass with the plow and boom. Died again. Was able to start it only if I gave it full choke and it my rpm's would surge up and down.

I can't seem to pinpoint the root cause of the trouble. One day it seems electrical, the next it seems like a fuel problem. and my real worry is I have something seriously wrong with the engine.

Read previous similar troubles...changed my coil, points, plugs, wires, resistor, cap and rotor, and wiring. Verifed fuel line is unobstructed......blood pressure is going up so here I am to seek some advice. Any is appreciated!!

Thanks...Pete

I think I'd clean my carburetor

Picking up the rebuild kit this week and really hoping that is my issue. I'm also wondering if I should go with a 12 volt coil and get rid of the resistor all together?

Unobstucted fuel line may not be enough. You need full flow into a gas can for 5 to 10 minutes or more straight. I'd get a few gas cans and drain your tank and then check the bottom. Only takes a few minutes and/or movement for rust and floaters in the gas tank to disrupt flow. Been down that road a lot. Fuel flow keeps up with an idling tractor but when full flow takes what is in the carb, it quits dead. May have had rust and crud partially block the carb passages. A cleaning and a kit will only be a temporary fix. Your nickel. Let us know how it goes.

Thanks bc.......I'll do that first. What I don't understand is it drove fine out to the field. 3rd gear high so I wasn't in an idle state. I know the demand for fuel is more under a heavier load I just didn't figure it would be that much more. Appreciate the advice!! I will let you know how it goes, and hopefully will come back and say you saved me a nicke; =)

Good advice BC. So many people will get some fuel at the end of the line and think they have fuel flow..its got to flow fully and for a sustained period to provide for high RPM's Most likely something is obstructing the flow..a biomass in the bottom of the tank..something!

Problem is gas problems act like electric problems cause it dies so quick like someone turned a switch. These tractors are gravity feed and don't have a fuel pump like a car that lets it sputter along for a while.

I think those resistors may get hot but it sure doesn't hurt to get the 12v correct coil from NAPA that states on it that it has internal resistance. According the the expertts here and in the archives, the winding inside does the resistance or something like that. Coils are just under $20.

When it dies immediately check for spark. Then you know if it is the coil or something electrical. Coils when they go bad will get hot they say. Mine never did but I replaced it anyway. It was a new to me tractor and I had no idea how old anything was except by the paint and rust on everything. It had a lot of farmer rigging done to it for sure. Coils, points, condensers, and batteries are cheap compared to all the frustration for being shut down.

I figured out they had rust problems before as they had ditched the sediment bowl and put one of those inline filters in. It did and they eventually do fill up with rust. And they won't handle flow at a peak time. No way you can have an inline filter in their and run it hard. I said idling earlier but they will run fast for a while till the rust particles begin plugging it up and restricts the flow till the carb runs dry and it quits. Then it sits for a time while you are wondering what is happening and during this while enough gas trickles into the carb so it starts and runs for a while. Kind of a viscious cycle. They you have to pick a way to fix it. Seems like I acidize the tank and soak the carb in Berrymans and blow out the passages at the beginning of each summer. Had some screen stuck up the tank intake a couple inches and it plugged off. This summer I did as Allen said and used a piece of rubber hose stuck up an inch and a half to stop rust particles.

My vote is for a bad coil. It happened to our 756 twice the past year, it appears to be a fuel problem but it isn't. Get a new coil and away we go!!

Jim

Look in the gas tank with a flashlight to see if there is any foreign material which would plug the outlet. Our 560 Diesel got corn tassels into the tank [used on the picker] & they got into the outlet. We took the sediment bowl/ outlet off, & it had 2 tassels in it. Removed the tassels & no more problems.
Bye the way, the 560's came out 12 volts. My brother had a 560 gas & the resistor was on there for cutting down point wear. When starting, the coil was given full 12 volts by the extra terminal on the starter solenoid. Bypassed the resistor that way.

Another thought---does your carb have the solenoid shut-off thing on the main jet? You might try backing it out a turn or so to see if it is screwed in too far. Same if it has a manual adjusted jet.

What plugs are you using? D21's are too hot for field work. Try a
D16. I have D18 in a 560 gas with a 234 picker and sheller, and
even those can be too hot at times when I am working it.

My guess would be the condenser as it seems like these new ones just cant be counted on. I would change that and then go. This if you are sure your fuel flow is good as they both can have same type problem. Had a condenser go bad on the first day of a tractor ride probably should have not even installed a new one to start with as the old one could have lasted for many more yrs.

I just wonder if there is a way to test a condenser with a multi-meter?

Very similar behavior to my 560. Ran fine until it got warm, then the same type of problems begin. Put in a new coil, but it was still the same. I took apart the carburetor, and found that the needle valve was just a little bit sticky. Cleaned this with carb cleaner and reassembled. Totally fixed the problem.
This needle valve was in a rebuild kit I put in about 2 years ago when the tractor just died while running (also stuck needle valve). The new one I installed has a red (silicone?) rubber end. For a while I ran gas with some ethanol, and I suspect this is what made it soft or maybe deposited a sticky coating.
My guess is that the rubber or coating becomes a little softer as the tractor warms up and begins to stick intermittently. Also driving on uneven ground seemed to cause it to lose power, maybe the fuel sloshing in the carb reservoir caused the float to push harder on the needle and make it stick.
I ordered a couple new valves with black rubber (viton?) ends, but am still using the red one for now.