Farmall H Carburetor Kit Question

68rs327

Member
I am wanting to buy a Complete Carb Kit for My Farmall H. The only numbers I can find on the Carb are 6212DB. The Carb Kits I find say they are for 45108DB and 50981DA Carbs? My Farmall H is a 1947 and it has a IH Carb on it. Can you guys tell me which kit I need or are all the ones for the Farmall H the same? Also, where is the best and Cheapest place to buy the complete kit? Thanks
 

You're looking in the wrong place for the number. The number you want is on the small, round, brass tag on top of the carb, right in the area where the governor tube attaches, but it really makes no difference, because one of those model numbers is for the distillate carb, and the other is for the gasoline carb, but there really isn't any difference in the two kits. Do a Google search for "Farmall H carburetor".
 

Trust me on this , go to the I.H dealer and buy a factory kit . It lasted how long ?

The after market kits are crap nothing fits right and it ends up running worse .

I have rebuilt a lot of carbs and on somethings it best to stick with the dealer...
 
James is right. Please do not make finding the cheapest carb kit your priority on this rebuild. Get the kit through CaseIH and you'll actually have a completely reuilt carb in the end. Yes you're going to spend around $100 but it'll be worth it in the end.
 

I beg to differ. If the rebuild kit is purchased from a seller who also knows how, and DOES rebuild carburetors, then the $35.00 kit WILL be every bit as good, and work just as well, as the $100 kit from IH.
 
Rusty, I have some carb questions for the Farmall carb man on my SMTA. Don't know what I need to do at this point and would like to see what you think and your recommendations. My email is open and hope to hear from you, Hal.
 
(quoted from post at 09:34:35 10/17/10) Rusty, I have some carb questions for the Farmall carb man on my SMTA. Don't know what I need to do at this point and would like to see what you think and your recommendations. My email is open and hope to hear from you, Hal.

I sent you an email. If you don'r recieve it, here is mine. [email protected]
 


Before learning my lesson on quality i bought kits from tractor supply and this website.

They were for a 52 Super M and "2" cubs. In all of them they ran but not well and the cubs were the worst.

The throttle shaft was a smaller diameter and the seals didn't match up as well.
O-rings were loose on diameters that they shouldn't be .

So it doesn't matter who rebuilds it , if you don't start with quality parts you will get what you paid for.

Just trying to keep you from wasting your money and time .
 
James I have a question, never purchased a complete rebuild kit from CIH. Do they contain a choke shaft seal and drip hole filler for a M type carburetor? Agree on the throttle shafts, have several new ones laying around from generic kits because they were a smaller diameter than a lot of used ones removed. Seems like 90% of the time all thats needed on a M type carburetor is a good needle valve and seat, good gaskets and a good cleaning. If putting one in a cleaner the choke shaft seal, drip filter filling and main seat screw packing also. Once in a while a float, idle jet or throttle shaft bushings.
Make my own choke shaft seal and drip hole filter so far.
 
(quoted from post at 17:22:18 10/17/10)

Before learning my lesson on quality i bought kits from tractor supply and this website.

They were for a 52 Super M and "2" cubs. In all of them they ran but not well and the cubs were the worst.

The throttle shaft was a smaller diameter and the seals didn't match up as well.
O-rings were loose on diameters that they shouldn't be .

So it doesn't matter who rebuilds it , if you don't start with quality parts you will get what you paid for.

Just trying to keep you from wasting your money and time .

Sorry to dis-agree, but it DOES matter who rebuilds it, because if that person has experience, and has a reputation to maintain, he will know if the parts in the kit fit properly, and he will make sure the finished product is top quality.

There is WAY MORE to rebuilding a carburetor than just changing out some parts.
 
Slater:

To be honest i don't remember what came with or with out on the "M" carb kit. There was one part that was seprate either the floats or the needle and seat.

I believe it was the needle and seat that were seprate.

The kits had everything but one part , and the more i think about it ,it was the needle and seat.

That's funny that you also have several throttle shafts laying around that are the wrong diameter. How can they sell a kit that things are a differnt size and expect things to idel correct ?

But as posted on here that doesn't matter a good builder knows how to use them cheap parts .

I still have on the shelf a rebuilt "M" carb with a cheap kit in it. It runs but doesn't idel well and brakes up as the rpm is applied.

I bought another carb and installed a I.H kit and it runs great. Know both of the carbs were tanked to make sure all the air bleeds were clear then glass beaded and clear coated.

The same time and quality effort was put into both , they go on my pulling tractor.

I believe i have about $150.00 into the I.H parts "with needle and seat" .

Ware we really noticed the differance was on the dyno , it doesnt lie ..
 
(quoted from post at 17:02:06 10/18/10) Slater:

To be honest i don't remember what came with or with out on the "M" carb kit. There was one part that was seprate either the floats or the needle and seat.

I believe it was the needle and seat that were seprate.

The kits had everything but one part , and the more i think about it ,it was the needle and seat.

That's funny that you also have several throttle shafts laying around that are the wrong diameter. How can they sell a kit that things are a differnt size and expect things to idel correct ?

But as posted on here that doesn't matter a good builder knows how to use them cheap parts .

I still have on the shelf a rebuilt "M" carb with a cheap kit in it. It runs but doesn't idel well and brakes up as the rpm is applied.

I bought another carb and installed a I.H kit and it runs great. Know both of the carbs were tanked to make sure all the air bleeds were clear then glass beaded and clear coated.

The same time and quality effort was put into both , they go on my pulling tractor.

I believe i have about $150.00 into the I.H parts "with needle and seat" .

Ware we really noticed the differance was on the dyno , it doesnt lie ..

James, That carburetor is either still dirty inside, is missing the idle metering jet, or someone did some damage while trying to modify it into a "pulling" carburetor. I've had carburetors that sat in the tank for two days and still weren't clean.
 

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