What to do when you cant get your rim off the axle????

Anonymous-0

Well-known Member
I have a a IH 1486 with rear flat, There is a wedge that keeps the rim on the axle, I got the bolt loose and the rear wedge out, BUT the wedge on the out side will not give,, Any one have an idea how to get this wedge out so I can get it off the axle??? I have hammered it, drove it around with out the rear wedge in,, Any more ideas????
 
That wedge should have like three holes the bolts that are in the wedge and put them in the holes and tighten them up. That pops the rim off the wedge. This it what I always use is a big 2 jaw puller to pull the wedge off the axle.
 
Does this tractor have dual rear tires or not? If it is a single tire or the outside dual? If so you can demount, repair, and remount tire to the rim without removing the rim from the axel. Armand
 
mine must be the same as yours,, dont see any holes in the wedge,, There is one hole in the middle and it had a bolt in it that will not come out. Thanks,, Any more ideas?
 
Its the inside tire, with the heavy rim.. Dual tires are off.. I wish i could fix the tire on the tractor, I have no way to break the tire off the rim. Might end up calling a tire repair co.. I hate paying for something I can do..
 
place 2 jacks between solid object like big tree or another piece of equipment and add pressure like your putting rim on/like tightening a bolt a hair to break it loose good luck to ya!
 

there is a special tool for this check with your local ih dealer they may have one you can borrow it is 2 large u shape things that has 2 bolts with it this holds the one that moves freely and makes the bolt push on the stuck one - the bolt will not come out with out damaging it there is a shoulder on it to keep it together i had the same problem on a 1256 and even with the tool it would not come off so i ended up torching it out and buying a new one

hope this helps
 
Put the tool on like instructed, turn wheel so key way side of axle is down and strike the top, not end of axle with like a four pound hammer. Never saw one I could not get loose but they take some effort. Use lots of penetrating oil. When installing the tool do not get too carried away with expanding it as you will ruin the threads or head or bolt. About 6oo ft lbs torque is plenty(150 pound man on end of the four foot pipe that came with tractor) Don't use air wrench except to run wedge in or out when loose.
 
like others have said, it"s a lot easier to fix the flat while it"s on the tractor. i"d borrow/buy a bead breaker, at least 2, preferably 3 tire irons, and a 3-4 # hammer. then you"re set to handle any tire.

if you really want to take it to someone- i would leave the cast center right on the axle, and take the rim off of that. i think it"s something like 12 bolts, nuts, and clamps that hold the double bevel rim to the cast center. pop them off and you"ve only got the weight of the rim and tire, not all that cast to manhandle.
 
You might be farther ahead to bite the bullet and hire it done. I had to take the tire off of my Case 300 (28" tires). My brother has tire tools for fixing truck tires. We beat on it for half an hour with an 8 lb sledge. Finally gave up and paid to get it off. He spent about an hour with his air tools. Calcium chloride does nasty things to a wheel.
 
What are you going to do with the wheel once you get it off???

You've said multiple times that you have no way to break the bead.

What good will having the wheel off the tractor do?

Do you have a way to handle it safely?

BTW, if you've got a 48" farm jack and a log chain, you can break the bead easily. Jack directly against the drawbar to break the inner bead. Chain the jack to the drawbar to break the outer bead.
 
I bought a bead cheata to break the bead loose
before that I used a wood splitting maul and a lot of patience
people talk about useing a handyman jack and a chain, others put a 4x4 against the bead next to the rim and have another tractor push on the 4x4 with the drawbar.
use the front end loader to push,
a hydraulic jack against a post
good luck
Ron
 
The way I break the bead, lay it on the ground and used my backhoe stablizer arm and push down on the tire.. works very good and easy... But iy has to be off the tractor.

I see many other ways to do it, Might try a few see how they work,, Thanks
 
leave the tractor sit firmly on the ground take the backhoe bucket and CAREFULLY push with the teeth next to the rim that bead will break
Ron
 
(quoted from post at 08:47:05 09/03/10) The way I break the bead, lay it on the ground and used my backhoe stablizer arm and push down on the tire.. works very good and easy... But iy has to be off the tractor.

Ahhhhh! So you DO have a way to break the bead, and a way to handle the tire safely.

All you're lacking is the wedge lock tool. FYI, it looks like two horseshoes attached at the ends with long bolts.

What it does is hold the wedge that comes loose, so you can press the other wedge out by loosening the bolt. With that tool, getting the wedges out is stupid simple.
 
Funny , how come nobody said take small torch and warm ( not heat just warm ) rim ( not wedge or axle ) melt wax ( toilet seal works good ) wax will flow in between like solder , go get a cup and let it cool . Come back and pull it off with fingertips .
 
No need to fight those wedges to take the cast wheel off the axle . Jack under the axle housing lifting tire just clear of ground . Loosen twelve bolts and rim clamps. Remove eight of them leaving four of them at the top. Carefully let jack down a little until the four remaining clamps no longer touch rim . Remove them and jack the axle up a little and work the rim and tire away from the cast center. Ive done many that way by myself . Be advised that when you reinstall the twelve clamps and bolts that two of them are different from the other ten. These two are to be located on rim drive lugs (the "bumps" on the bevels) at 90 degrees from each other. Tighten them first. If rim clamps are not installed properly the rim will not be mounted straight with the cast wheel . Wheel/tire will likely wobble noticeably at road speeds.
Have an operator's manual ? Tells how to do it
I can send you pages from manual if you like .
 
I remember putting new rims on the 1066 when Dad went to 20.8s on it... He and my uncle spent HOURS getting each rim to run true.

I suppose if you're not happy with how the rim runs now, it's worth taking them off the hub.

I suppose if you don't care if the wheels wobble back and forth as you go down the road, you can just slap them back on and tighten the bolts.
 
The wheel hub is called Wedge-lok if you have a single 12pt cap screw per wheel parallel to axle, the heavy u-plates were the tools sent by IH to push or pull the wedges, I used to set up new tractors & if I recall they sent 2 u-plates, 2 long bolts, 2 spacers, with the new tractor, 1 12pt short socket wrench, 1 3-4' cheater pipe, trick was gettings them loose without damaging wheel hub, wedges, 1 wedge has 12pt bolt welded in, heating the hub was ok, scorched the paint tho, sometimes wedges were so tight we blew them out with cutting torch, then getting them back tight & staying tight was next, hammering with sledge was ok but not end of axle, end thrust would crack Timken inner axle bearings. It was HD according to IH but SOB in field for service.
 

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