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Need Help quick on a 140 Motor/Water Pump Running - Videos

A

AL Farmall Boy

Member
Hey guys, hopefully all you professionals out there on Farmalls will see this soon and be able to help me and give me advice. I have been re-doing this tractor since it had caught on fire and burnt up. Today is the first day we started it up in about 3-4 years since it burnt. We had the head re-worked and had to replace most all of the parts on the tractor.

It has a new water pump from here (yesterdays tractors) and to us it sounds as if it is making a rattling noise. I also think we have a leak coming from it.

We've got new plug wires, plugs, all new internal electrics, used distributor from a 100, etc. Those new parts came from NAPA. It also doesn't sound like its running quite right to us either.
 

If you guys think you can help me out I can email you the video(s). I am going to post them on here, but it will take a little while to get them up. Either way is fine. I just don't want yall to see this post and forget about me when the videos get put up. My number is 205-368-5339 if you want to give me a call too.

THANKS SO MUCH!!
Chase
 
We welcome you to the forum. We can give help as fast as we have answers, and time to answer.
Put an automotive stethescope, or a dowel rod on the pump, to listen to it. If the noise is isolated there, it may be bad.
Did you get my wiring diagram and other information below? If so it is (a good idea) nice to hear back that you did in fact get the info, and used it or the answer was different. Please keep in touch. Jim
 
Jim,

I did get the info this morning and went first thing to get the flasher unit. I've been so busy today working on it, that I haven't had the chance to go back and reply with a "THank you". My uncle and grandfather are helping me work on it, so I have to be out there when they are to make sure it gets done the way I want it to otherwise they will fix it right, but they don't go to any trouble to make it look nice or neat on some things.

The diagram was absolutely great!! Thanks so much and I really would like to see if you have one for the complete tractor thats easy to read like that. I have a couple diagrams (one off the internet and one out of my IT shop manual for a 140). Both diagrams are not like the 76 model that has the 12 volt alternator with the Key Start. Right now we are having trouble hooking the starter switch up and need one. For now though, we're just by passing it to crank it.
 

Also, I really was hoping you'd see this post and reply having that you greatly helped me on the last one, and it was exactly what I was looking for.

Bare with me, I am working as fast as I can possibly go (and my computer can go). The pictures are uploaded, and now the videos are on their way to the internet. Once done, I will post the link.

Thanks
 
The starter relay has 4 posts. A large post, a post marked S a post marked I and a second large post.
The large post closest to the S terminal goes to the battery cable. The S terminal goes to the key S terminal for starting. The I terminal hooks to the coil, at the coil, on the input side of the coil not the distributor side. The last big post hooks to the starter. Jim
 
Really, well ours (that came from Yesterdays Tractor) only has 3 posts. I have a picture of it in the link I am going to provide.
 
We are using a new key start switch as well. We checked it and we're getting power TO THE SWITCH, but we ARE NOT GETTING POWER THROUGH IT.
 
I will check that with a test light later. I know that I just went to NAPA and bought another NEW Starter Relay just because we thought the other NEW one was toast. Still isn't starting the tractor.
 
***UPDATE***

Engine/Water Pump Noise has been identified and fixed. Apparently one of the bolts on the pump wasn't tightened all the way, but the rest were. THat was causing the funny sqeaking/rattling noise, as well as a small leak. We tightened all the bolts, and fixed the problem.

The only issues we're having now at the moment is the starting switch not working as described above. It is as if the key switch wasn't even hooked up. We are having to jump the starter directly to the battery to start it right now. I will check the terminal on the relay tomorrow as you were telling me to do. I have bought 2 brand new terminals and neither have worked so far. It has to be something else because there is no way that both of them (came from 2 different places) are bad
 
On my late model 140 the wire ran from the keyed switch to the clutch switch - then to the starter relay

If the clutch switch was bad (happened once a year it seemed) we would start it at the relay and at the end of the day reinstall the jumper wire till we had time to replace the switch
 
We did not install a clutch switch when we wired everything back up. We didn't feel it was necessary. Do you think since one isn't hooked up thats why it isn't working right?? We have used our own new wiring to hook everything up.
 
We didn't replace/install a clutch switch on this one because we didn't think it was necessary. Do you think that could be the probelem of it not wanting to start? Maybe one has to be hooked up. We wired the tractor with all new home made wires. We didn't use a pre-fab harness.
 
Where do you have the solenoid switch bolted on? If it is not grounded you will never get one to work. With all of the new paint you might have it bolted directly to the frame and sill not get a ground.

Are you in Alabama like your name suggest? I am located in Walker in Co. and have a 140 I reworked 9 years ago. I know several local places to get parts and implements for your tractor. Including a Case IH dealership that stock a lot of parts for the 140. I bought a new bumper from them a few years ago for $75.00.
 
David,

Thanks for your suggestions. I check the ground on the switch this morning, and thats what it was. Yes I am in Alabama, and I've not had good luck with the dealerships on parts. I can usually find the same parts at almost half the price and sometimes more than that.

Right now I need to get a good alternator with the harness plug that plugs into it. My 140 has the 12 volt alternator original from the factory, so it will need to be like those to mount correctly.
 
If you have the original alternator the best and most of the time the cheapest thing is to have it rebuilt.

I had the generator for mine rebuilt last year for $75.00, that included a new armature. Mine is a 1972 model.
 
Isn't a new alternator about the same price. Someone told me you could get a new one for around $100. Maybe less than that.

There is no telling what is wrong with mine because the tractor caught on fire, and everything external melted and no telling what is messed up inside.
 
A three terminal just eliminates the I terminal. (Ignore it) The big one close to the S terminal is to be connected to the battery cable, the other big one is the starter connection. Jump from the battery terminal on the relay to the S terminal. (a screw driver will do nicely for this). If it spins the starter, the relay is fine. The S terminal must have voltage from the key to run the starter. Jim
 
Thanks Jim, I found the problem to be that the relay switch wasn't grounded due to the new paint. Gotta watch those grounds when you paint a tractor!

My latest problem is with the governor acting erratically, and finding a good alternator at a good price. (see my 2 latest posts about both)
 
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