666 clutch

Ok i put a new clutch in my 666 gas and i got the fly wheel plained and changed the pilot bearing and the clutch bearing and the clutch plate .First time i ever did any thing like this. It works but when i adjust the clutch like it tells me to in the book at an inch and three quarters i cant get the tractor in gear. So i set it at 1 inch and it works good then. Why cant i set it like it should be? Did i do some thing wrong? Thanks Erik.

What you need to determine is if you have clearance between throw out bearing and clutch fingers. All it takes is like one sixteenth of an inch so fingers do not touch bearing while engine is running. Reason book gives you the dimension they do is so you have some room for wear as free play will as you no doubt know decrease as clutch linings wear. The less you have the more you will have to keep an eye on your free travel and readjust more often. I find these models have very little extra throw on the brg so sometimes you have to cheat a little on the clearance especially as all your linkages wear. I would personally also make sure all fingers are set the same as this can really affect your release problems.

Thanks Pete. If i set it the way the book says i cant get it in gear. I got it set at about one inch to inch and a quarter and it works but when i let the clutch out the tractor starts in low and as the clutch comes up it goes into high so i have a two speed clutch is that normal? Thanks agian Erik.

By adjusting ONLY the clutch pedal free play, you now have a messed up TA adjustment.

Notice how the clutch and TA linkages are all connected together.

In order for you to be able to shift, both the main clutch and the TA clutch need to be released. Releasing the TA clutch is also what happens when you pull the TA lever back.

Something is very very wrong with that new clutch and/or pressure plate. Unless you have the clutch pedal free play at factory spec, you won't be able to properly adjust the TA, and you will always have that goofy "two speed" clutch action. You will wear the TA out quickly like this.

Finish your clutch adjusting procedure and adjust the TA clutch. Both the main clutch and TA clutch have to be adjusted together, procedure is in the owners manual and the Tractor Vet has posted it on here many times.

Yes i did that i adjusted the TA clutch according to the book but i will see if im getting enough space between the clutch and the through out bearing and i think i will remove the plate over the TA clutch and check t0 make sure it is adjusted properly.

You have to readajust the ta linkage accordingly and you will be fine. But like I said, make sure you actually have clearance at the release bearing, free play at the pedal does not always relate to free play at the brg. Those clutches can be tough to get a nice release, were even on new ones. Not all of them, just some as the disc doesn't always let go of the flywheel, pilot bearings like to move out on them so I always locktited them into flywheel and movement of disc on splines has to be lubricated and free. IH used to tell us that the static electricity generated from engaging clutch could cause the metalic disc to hang onto flywheel. That is why they put the bend in the four pad wing type clutch disc used on like a 706 but you can't do that with the disc commonly used in the 656 , 666 etc.

(quoted from post at 09:21:20 08/13/10) Yes i did that i adjusted the TA clutch according to the book.

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THAT is the problem.

The clutch is NOT adjusted by the book, but the TA is. It won't work like that.

You've got two choices:

1. figure out why the clutch isn't releasing and fix it, then adjust everything by the book.
2. fiddle with the TA adjustment until it works right.

With the clutch pedal about 1/2 way out, the TA clutch should be released. The tractor will not roll backwards down a hill with the clutch pedal 1/2 way out if adjusted properly.

With all the problems you are having, did have the flywheel resurfaced before you installed the new clutch?

The way to get the TA adjusted when things are not right is to first get the main clutch adjustment where it needs to be to work. Then loosen the adjusting lever that contacts the main clutch shaft. Get the TA adjusted so that you have the correct free travel, you need to make sure the clutch will release completely and that the bearing is not touching when the clutch is engaged. Then set the adjusting lever so that the TA clutch is completely released when the main clutch is disengaged and also that the TA clutch engages before the main clutch.

This is easily checked by facing the tractor up an incline that is steep enough that the tractor will roll backward when the clutch is released. With the tractor in a forward gear depress the clutch and make sure the tractor will roll backward. As you release the main clutch a little, the TA clutch needs to engage before the main clutch. You can tell when this happens because with the TA clutch engaged the tractor will no longer roll backwards. As you release the main clutch a little more the tractor should begin to move forward.

Using an incline like this works for ALL TAs, both mechanical and hydraulic. The method of adjustment may differ but the principle is the same.

Every 656/666 new I ever drove off the truck would shift better with the T/A in low or lever back, thats just the way they are.