What's your favorite juice for a stuck motor?Kroil,WD40, or.

DennisT · Jul 30, 2010

I have a stuck Farmall A engine. (See, "1st Farmall," post) The shop in town that re-worked the cylinder head for this tractor a while back told me today to go home and put WD-40 in all the cylinders. I see WD-40 as a, "water displacement," fluid but not as a lubricant. Not sure about using that. I'm thinking a mix of diesel and ATF. Kroil would be a good idea if it were not so expensive in the quantities required. (I plan to pull the plugs and put about 6 oil-can squirts of something in each hole)
What's your favorite juice for this purpose?
Dennis

Dave_Id · Jul 30, 2010

I liked Kroil. The only thing I used WD40 was for surface grinding aluminum. I did a fine job for that.

PORKY B. · Jul 30, 2010

El Toro · Jul 30, 2010

Use ATF and pull the head and oil pan. Unbolt one rod at a time and use a piece of 2 X 2 oak and a big hammer and drive out the rod and piston. The sleeve may come with it. You can remove the piston with a good acetylene torch.

I did this on an A back in 1975 and that's how I got mine out the same day I got the tractor. Those sleeves aren't pressed into the block. You need to thoroughly clean that area where those seals are installed since rust and dirt collect in that area. I pulled the engine it made it easier to work on. Hal

PS: I used a new sleeve kit and the old rods.

DennisT · Jul 30, 2010

Hal: Nice A in your photo. You mentioned needing to clean around the seals...what seals are you talking about?

I guess tearing down the motor is the, "high quality," method of getting a good job. Maybe it's my age, (67), but all that looks like a big undertaking to me. If I have to, I will.

Thanks for your help, Dennis

railhead · Jul 30, 2010

whatever oil you decide on add patience. Do a weight on the crank etc and let it take as long as it wants.

rustred · Jul 30, 2010

i take mine apart , that soaking thing is just a waste of time. once you have rust in the cyls. the damage is done. the cyls. are pitted and the rings stuck in grooves. thats why its important to use the million dollar can on exhaust pipe or a rain cap to keep the water out.

Pale Rider · Jul 30, 2010

I just wanted to say...using El Toro's method worked very well for me.

John A. · Jul 30, 2010

Guys, If I am letting them set for a while just ATF & DSL. If at all possible fill up the cylinder with a 2/3s to 1/3 mixture of ATF and Diesel and replace the plugs for a couple of months or so.
If that does work strip tractor down to the block, roll out side, and fill cylinder with most volume with DSL add a splash of gas, set on fire and let the fire burn itself out and then drive out the piston from the bottom up. Move to next most volume cylinder and repeat, till all pistons are removed. Note as the volume goes down so does the burn time, so a 2nd, 3rd, 4th and so on may be needed to break loose the rust so the piston will come out.
Hope this helps!
Later,
John A.

El Toro · Jul 30, 2010

Your sleeves are wet sleeves and there's a doughnut seal installed in the block just below your sleeves to keep coolant from leaking into the oil pan. The A's, B's , C's Super A's and Super C's all had wet sleeves. Makes it very easy to rebuild an engine. When I did the A in 1975 the sleeve kit cost $80.00. Hal
PS: I bought an overbore kit that made the engine with 123 cid.

El Toro · Jul 30, 2010

That will be the easiest engine you ever had to rebuild.. Do it right and it will last another 50 years with good care. You need to look at the crankshaft to see what it looks like and have it measured. Take it to your local auto machine shop and have them measure it. If it needs to be ground undersize they can do that, but it may only need polishing. Have them to furnish the correct bearings. They won't grind it unless it needs it. On the A I did in 1975
I measured it before I dropped it off at the machine shop. It measured .002" undersize and the shop called me at work and said it was only worn .002" and would need polishing and they furnished the .002" undersize bearings. I'm 77 soon be 78 and I still working on engines. I paid $100.00 for that tractor and that included the 16-inch moldboard plow. Hal

Anonymous-0 · Jul 30, 2010

Rubbing Alcohol

old · Jul 30, 2010

AYF is the only thing I use and have used it now for a decade and out of 20 plus only 2 or 3 have not popped free and ran good after and that was with out even pulling the head or pan. Done it so many times now that I get tired of even saying any thing about them

DennisT · Jul 30, 2010

Hi Old:

We've talked before...quite a while though.

You wrote AYF, or did you mean ATF? If AYF, what is it?

Dennis

old · Jul 30, 2010

Ya AYF is a type-O it should say ATF LOL. Been one of those long hard no money days and it is catching up to me LOL.

Tom Fleming · Jul 31, 2010

I like PB Blaster or Kroil. Any of the previous potions will work also. You asked for what our "favorite" was, not necessarily what will work. There is usually more than one way to skin a cat, some just take less time, and other produce better results.....but in the end, they work.

gene bender · Jul 31, 2010

Why not just pull the head so you can see wwhy the engine is stuck as you will mess around with this and that and still will need to overhaul the engine. Take out the plugs and with a little mag lite you will be able to s4ee the cycl walls enough to know why the engine is stuck. What magic stuff will work on one engine doesent mean it will work on all. I have had several A and B engines stuck and had to tear down all of them in the end.I am going down below Lebanon,Mo to get an A i bought and when i get it home i will remove the head and go from there.

John M · Jul 31, 2010

I have tried many different ways to break an engine free with limited success using witches brews and name brand products. Ive had decent succes with Kroil and very limtied succes with PB Blaster, Both were on engine that were stuck from time, not rust. If they are rusty, its best just to tear it down and not waste time, BUT you sometimes have to run the crank to get the rod bolts out. When I get into that situation, I just pull the engine and take it to my machine shop guy who does all my machine work and let him get it out. They have the equipment ot get it out and not chance tearing up something else. I know others have had good luck using their methods, thats fine for them, but I dont like risking it, nor waiting 6 month for it to saaok, or having to go every other day and mix up a brew to dump in there. You really wont save that much money by not letting a professional get it out.

JDnTN · Jul 31, 2010

Some like a 50/50 mix of Acetone and ATF.
JD

DennisT · Jul 31, 2010

Between El Toro, Indianared and others, you've convinced me to dig into this A. Since it's stuck at the moment and I've got a zillion things to keep up with I think I'll leave the soak going for now, rock the tractor every day or so and see if it'll break loose. "Then," I would have piston movement. After that, (or now I guess), I will take the advice of most of you and pull the head. Should be able to do that over the next few days. If I see a lot of ring-ridge, I'll suspect a bit of cylinder taper anyway.

At the moment I'd like to this in frame so I don't have to split the tractor. I also have to make room inside a building which I'll have to do anyway.

The link to the rebuild kits I appreciate as, for some reason, I had not looked there. I wonder if all that stuff is USA made??

If in frame, that makes it hard to drop the crank, but I suppose I might be able to mic it...

I know splitting the tractor and pulling the engine would be better.....I'll see how my optimism runs for that.

Next on this forum I'll post a new thread for what I find. This is dropping behind a lot anyway. I appreciate all the comments, I'm going to put them all in a Word doc. to save them.

Dennis

colekicker · Jul 31, 2010

Kroil works great, but is a bit expensive.

I like straight diesel. Just oily enough to lubricate and if you don't think it penetrates enough put a little gas with it.

What's your favorite juice for a stuck motor?Kroil,WD40, or.

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