Do I need a new hydraulic pump, on my international 140?

I recently bought an international 140(yellow). Engine seems strong enough, but the hydraulics are compromised. It has a funky three point added to it. I"ve mounted a piece of diamond bar with 2 c shank track scratchers to it. It will put it down all day, but needs my help lifting it up at the end of a bed. I new for sure that I needed to change the engine oil, and it does seem that the two problems could have had at least something to do with one another.

I changed the engine oil and filter element last night. The oil was super black, and the element pretty damn old. The guy I bought it from was obviously not into maintenance. He stated that when he used to use it, he"d bring hydraulic fluid out with him into the field, and have to fill back up every couple of hours or so. I had the leak fixed below the filler hole, but that hasn"t helped.

Since I"ve changed the engine oil, now the front lift won"t go up or down at all, unless I stand on it, and the rear, if I physically pick it up, will slowly lower itself down. The rockshafts just basically rock. They try wimpily to move and then stop, then try again, and then stop.

After running the tractor in the field for 15 minutes, the hydraulic pump is warmer than the oil filter casing. Is that normal, or a good sign that my pump is fried? How can I test if the pump needs replacement or if something else is happening.

thanks in advance,
tim

I had Hydralic Oil loss from my Dad's Super A, After looking around here and reading in the Shop Manual it states:
Loss of Oil from System no External Leaks -
1. Pump drive shaft seal leaking oil into crankcase.

Sounds cheaper that a pump that may cost 400

Do a search on here for 140 Hydraulic - Good Luck.
Kyle

Change the hydrolic fluid .Remove and clean the filter . I changed my fluid out and pulled the filter screen and it was stopped up up with gunk. I replaced filter screen - and hyd. work like a charm.
I would do that first , I would bet that is your problem .
Griff

You need to change the seal in the hy pump as its leaking the fluid into the crankase. I f the shaft is worn at the journal then you will need a speedy sleeve to get that aarea of tha shaft correct so the new seal can stop the leaking into the engine.

If the hydraulic oil was leaking into the crankcase, and the previous owner were filling up the hydraulics every 2 hours, the crankcase would be full, and the engine would be smoking like crazy by the end of the day!

The hydraulic oil is leaking out on the ground. Right?

Changing the oil isn't going to help. If the oil was so bad that it was the cause of the problem, it wouldn't look like oil anymore. It would be a thick tar, or it would be clear water.

Changing the oil is a good idea if it hasn't been done in a while, but it sounds to me like there's either a restriction in the system somewhere, or the pump is shot.

There's a little cap on the left side of the hydraulic block that holds the filter screen. Pull it and see if it's blocked.

I've had the filter screen cleaned, and a gasket
around it replaced. That was were the leak was, but
it leaks no more. The leak would have been on the
ground.

So, how do I tell if there's a blockage or if the
pumps blown? Can I take off a line and see what
comes out and how?

The leak was on the ground not in the crankcase. It leaked below the hydraulic fill nut, where the screen sits, behind the plate with 2 nuts. That's been addressed, cleaned up, and the fluid in there is new.

To look for a blockage, start pulling lines loose and hold the end so it will pump in a bucket while someone fires up the tractor. Won't be much pressure but time with your watch how long it takes to pump a gallon to compare to what your pump puts out. Use a gallon jug to mark the gallons on your bucket. Don't get run over doing this.

Put in a pressure guage to check your pressures.

If you have good down pressure on your hitch but no up pressure, then probably not the pump. Pull the return line and see what pumps out when you make your hitch go down and then what happens when it goes up.

I'd look for a sticky piston or crud/blockage in valve or stuck relief/popoff valve with something under the ball. Something in one part of the system will affect another. It helps to have a book and diagram of the hydaulics and at least an IH manual so you can trace things out. There is a logic to the system and redundent relief/popoff valves and check valves in everything. Something is likely blocked with crud.

I'm assuming you have 2 way cylinders but maybe not.

This is a 140. The cylinders are 2-way, but they're internal.

Thanks everyone for the helpful advice. It turned out to be a bad and missing gasket on the seal to the pump, and then some air that needed to get bled out of the system. Seems to work well, though I wouldn't be surprised if I'm revisiting this again.

Again many thanks.

tim