706 Having a bad day

Gotta 706 Gas, runs and starts good every day but today, and it actually started out good let her run for about 30 minutes before I started working her.

Was pushing some snow and when she should've been accelerating when it came under a load it quit. Got new points, plugs, wires, and a rebuilt carb. After letting it sit for a while I have spark and when I crank it over get some white smoke, had it running fine a few times, could give it lots of throttle and power down and so on, but when I let the clutch out(Unless in a really low gear) she will lose her power(Kind of acts like its not advancing properly). Then it dies again, and plays the devil to get it started again. Where does a guy start on this, it's unlike anything I've dealt with before. The tractor has been converted to 12 volt, What do I have to trouble shoot for electrical components? Could it have a reducer some where in the line to take it back to 6 volt and if so could that be part of my problem?

Thanks in advance, look forward to talking to all of ya!

Sounds like a fuel issue. Why do you think electrical?

could be bad condensor, hows the coil? chech your coil.

White smoke makes me think headgasket, I'd check compression. Quick and simple, and tells alot.

Likely a gob of tank snot or rust in a line or carb.Pull a coil off something else and stick on it right quick and see if it fires up.After cranking very much at all you should be smelling gas real bad and have it leaking,or running on the ground at the carb from flooding.

One note. All 706"s were 12 volt from the factory.

Fuel issue. It will quit just like that and make you think its an electrical or a governor problem. After it sits and the carb fills with fuel, it will run again for a while. Probably have to use the choke to make it start and run. They will sometimes flow enough fuel to run around in low gear at high rpm even. But taking off in a higher gear requires an instantaneous burst of fuel and when the carb doesn't deliver, it quits which makes you think the gov is acting up or electrical. If you can run around for a long time in low, then it can't be electrical or the gear wouldn't make a difference.

Rust plugging the tank valve or sediment bowl. Could be at the screen at the carb. Maybe a little water in the system that has frozen. Get a empty tank and short hose, pull the plug from the bottom of the carb or the fuel line off the carb. It should run a steady stream for 5 minutes.

Post back with what you find. Then the fix can be ascertained. I fight it all the time and about due for another tank cleaning.

Should have a solenoid at the carb to prevent run-on. Make sure it is opening fully--could have ice not letting it open fully. Try a hair dryer on the carb for a few minutes. Could be frost in the fuel tank--do you keep the tank full in winter?

Yep was thinking that and took mine off, whomever owned it before must've cut off the plunger part, it is way to short but still activates and functions the way it is suppose to.
Just doesn't block the main jet the way it's suppose to, was suprised to see it cut off though.

Thanks

Eric

By Golly "BC" I think you are correct, I took the solenoid out and it initially has a good stream but after slows way more than when it's coming out of the line going into the Carb.

*Pulled the screen that the fuel line goes to and found a collection of rust on one part of it. Cleaned and put back in.

*Had to put on full choke and full throttle to get it to fire. Ran for a while and died (Starved of fuel), gave it about thirty seconds and pushed the throttle to nothing and she fired up. I am however convinced it isn't electrical anymore (Thank God, too cold out to be out troubleshooting)

*I believe my next step will end up being to go through the Carb again to ensure it's clear of rust and float is working properly.

*Do you think I should put another filter on it? If I do what kind would you suggest as I'm always worried if I put one of those see through on it will melt and end up burning the tractor up.(My sort of luck)

Thanks,

Eric

Sweet wasn't for sure as all I've had before this is an old "M" and an ALLIS WD-45, sure like this a lot better.

Thanks

Good compression, checked it before I bought it. The white smoke I talk of is while cranking it, before it starts, just a little bit of white to let you know you have something burnin.

Thanks Though glad I checked that when it was still warm, my shop isn't up yet but will be this spring cannot wait.

Eric

Maybe the tip or part of it is in the seat area?? Might be blocking fuel flow.

12 volt, but from two 6 volt batteries wired to give you 12V. I assumed he meant he was now using one, or two 12"s?

Gene

pushing snow, cold enough to freeze. dump a couple bottles of heet in it. may be a cheap fix for a partially frozen fuel line. hope this helps leroy

I replaced all the electrical parts (points, coil, condenser, plugs, wires, dist. cap, rotor) on my 2606 before I settled on the fuel issue but being new to me and not knowing how old everything was, it was due. The coil never seemed bad or got hot, but it sure ran better with a new coil. Not sure I like those replacement plug wires though.

Those gas tractors are gravity feed for fuel and when they run dry, they quit like someone shut off the key. Not like a car with a fuel pump that will pick up a little and pump a little and make your car spit and sputter for a while before it dies. That's why most people go thinking electrical parts.

If it runs now ok, I wouldn't mess with cleaning the carb again.

Mine had the solenoid but the actuator guts were gone. They put an o-ring on it and screwed it in and out like an adjusting jet. I don't run it long enough to diesel and besides I use a 1/4 turn ball valve to shut off the fuel and let it die on its own. I replaced the solenoid with a standard adjustable needle jet, packing, and packing nut that shows for those carbs. The new solenoids don't have an adjustable slot headed jet, just in and out, so not worth it to me to buy one.

You need to deal with the rust issue. Lots of stuff in the archives. I acidized mine without removing the tank using muratic acid and phosphoric acid to stop the flash rust. Still get some rust a year later.

If yours has the standard sediment bowl screwed up into the threaded collar under the tank, you can screw it out and clean out the tank once you have drained the fuel. Then go to the auto parts store and get a piece of rubber hose that fits over the nubbing that sticks up on the sediment bowl but thin enough hose to fit into the tank. About an inch or so off the bottom will keep the rust and gunk out. Then once a year or so, remove it and flush the rust out. I've used some window screen folded over and curved around it as well. Used small head bolt tie wire to twist it around the nubbing. Somewhere they have a screen that fits up there but not on the caseih site.

Mine didn't have a sediment bowl and the one I bought from caseih would never totally shut off. Finally plumbed it with brass fitting and a drip leg (like used with natural gas) coming down out of a tee. Then tee off to the ball valve and then to then elbow to the sediment bowl. The drip leg doesn't seem to catch all the rust so I may have to fashion some type of screen to stick up there yet.

Do NOT use an inline fuel filter unless you want to carry a tool box full of them around for spares as they will plug up with rust before you know it. They also seem to restrict the fuel. Napa has them in the right size for about $5. Mine had one of those little walmart G2 or G3 inline filters on it when I bought it. Went through a few of them and at the price, decided it was best to just fix the rust problem.

Good luck. Let us know what you figure out.