Had to fix a flat on the rear of my H loader tractor this AM (all the tire shops closed) and had trouble braking the beads. I am contemplating coating them with antiseize comp'd before mounting the tire thinking that maybe this would help the next time the tire has to be dismounted. Would appreciate any thoughts any of you might have on the subject. Thanks.
- Thread starter Dr. Bert
- Start date
John G. Hasler
Member
Antisieze has oil in it. Oil isn"t good for rubber.
mattofvinings
Member
After sweating thru this on smaller tires I fully intend to make up one of those "tire slide hammers" from a piece of pipe and some "hollow bar" (basically a very heavy tube section).
I think Miller has an off-the-shelf design but the price nearly blew my hat off...or was that me about to faint? :shock:
I have considered but not used KY-Jelly (hold jokes please) to reseat the beads. Its water soluble and plenty slippery...I wouldn't think it to build adhesion like whatever was put on there originally.
I think Miller has an off-the-shelf design but the price nearly blew my hat off...or was that me about to faint? :shock:
I have considered but not used KY-Jelly (hold jokes please) to reseat the beads. Its water soluble and plenty slippery...I wouldn't think it to build adhesion like whatever was put on there originally.
The best thing to do is sandblast the rims smooth and paint with a good coat of primer then a couple coats of paint. Let the paint dry completely. That will prevent the tires from rusting to the rims and make bead breaking easier. Tire soap contains water that promotes rusting.
Janicholson
Well-known Member
Even if you found a non petroleum based antisieze, the tire would turn on the rim ripping the stem, and ruining the tire. A main ingredient is the physical connection between the rim and the tire.
Difficulty bead braking is SOP. JimN
Difficulty bead braking is SOP. JimN
old
Well-known Member
- Location
- Camdenton Missouri
Your problem is just part of life. If it was easy to brake the tire down then you would have tube problems like Hal said and the tire would slip on the rim and rip the valve stem off the tube. Braking a tire down is an art that takes lots of time to learn. A good tire hammer and lots of soap and arm strong work is the only way to go
Anonymous-0
Well-known Member
T he k-y jelley does work good on the old used tires as its water based and like other post says sandblasting and new paint sure helps also.
As was said before, Never seize would lessen the "grip" to the rim that is needed to provide traction, and could allow the tire to slip on the rim (not good for tune type tires!)
I've used tire soap, "Rim-eze" (It's a lube that is veggie oil based with rust inhibitors) for all the tire work i did as a tire repairman. My dad has always used cheap dish soap that you can buy at the dollar store, but he takes the time to repaint the rim if it's showing too much rust.
I've used tire soap, "Rim-eze" (It's a lube that is veggie oil based with rust inhibitors) for all the tire work i did as a tire repairman. My dad has always used cheap dish soap that you can buy at the dollar store, but he takes the time to repaint the rim if it's showing too much rust.
Try Northern Tool for your slide hammer I got one and it's a time saver for sure. I bought a 5 gallon tub of Murphy's tire & tube mounting compound just because of what you guys are going thru. I got me pretty much a full assortment of hand use tire tools. Get a good brand of tire spoons though, not Northern's, there'e are like butter, they bend on first use. 'Cause if I got tire troubles it must be the weekend and always have to do it myself if I want to get anything done that weekend. bjr
mattofvinings
Member
I was thinking of something like this. I have the Ken Tool tire spoons, working great so far.
http://www.gemplers.com/product/6H/Ken-Tool-50-Heavy-duty-Slide-Hammer
http://www.gemplers.com/product/6H/Ken-Tool-50-Heavy-duty-Slide-Hammer
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